SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[JTrent82]

Ime, generally speaking, Shetland tweeds fall in the mid spectrum between Harris Tweed and Merino Tweed. Merino is usually denser, softer and less spongy than Shetland. The wool of Merino is finer and more polished. Not as rough as Shetland. Harris even more so. Harris is thick, coarse and hairy. Then you have Fox Tweed. Which falls somewhere between Moon and Harris in terms of coarseness.

It all depends on what you're looking for. If you want that ivy or country look, Harris Tweed is it. If you're looking for something similar to Harris visually but a little more refined which isn't as spongy and hairy, Shetland Tweed is your source. If you're looking for a refined piece or maybe something that you would be able to make a suit out of that would hold a crease well, opt for Merino Tweed.

This is very informative as always, sir. Just to be clear, where do you believe M&E's tweedy offerings fall on this spectrum? Closer to merino or shetland? I'm trying to decide on a brown herringbone for my next MTO, and I'm choosing between the Harris and the M&E.

 

[DonRaphael]

This is very informative as always, sir. Just to be clear, where do you believe M&E's tweedy offerings fall on this spectrum? Closer to merino or shetland? I'm trying to decide on a brown herringbone for my next MTO, and I'm choosing between the Harris and the M&E.

Closer to Shetland. In fact, I have a dark brown herringbone Shetland Tweed myself but from Moon. One of my absolute favourite jackets and less yellowish in reality.

 

[JTrent82]

Closer to Shetland. In fact, I have a dark brown herringbone Shetland Tweed myself but from Moon. One of my absolute favourite jackets and less yellowish in reality.
View attachment 2093015 View attachment 2093017 View attachment 2093019 View attachment 2093021

Lovely! I'm going to guess this is the mid-brown on the Moon site (PS370 02-26). Speaking of Moon, I missed out on the OTR golden brown check this year, which I have to assume was their merino quality. There are two other golden brown checks available via MTO, one from Fox and the other from M&E. Do you have experience with either of these, or would you care to speculate on their characteristics?

 

[DonRaphael]

Lovely! I'm going to guess this is the mid-brown on the Moon site (PS370 02-26). Speaking of Moon, I missed out on the OTR golden brown check this year, which I have to assume was their merino quality. There are two other golden brown checks available via MTO, one from Fox and the other from M&E. Do you have experience with either of these, or would you care to speculate on their characteristics?

It's actually the Dark Brown Mix PS370 2002/17.

The Fox fabric is a soft flannel and the ME is also softer to the touch being Merino. Usually, those kind of fabrics are not my first choices. I personally prefer more rustic looking and rough to the touch fabrics for FW, yet not as spongy as Harris Tweed for two simple reasons: the too country looking characteristic lending it to be too casual for my environment and the fact that Harris Tweed is difficult to work with for tailors which increases the margin of error.

The ME herringbone is reminiscent of the one I have from Moon.

 

[JTrent82]

It's actually the Dark Brown Mix PS370 2002/17.

The Fox fabric is a soft flannel and the ME is also softer to the touch being Merino. Usually, those kind of fabrics are not my first choices. I personally prefer more rustic looking and rough to the touch fabrics for FW, yet not as spongy as Harris Tweed for two simple reasons: the too country looking characteristic lending it to be too casual for my environment and the fact that Harris Tweed is difficult to work with for tailors which increases the margin of error.

The ME herringbone is reminiscent of the one I have from Moon.

I see. It's no longer listed- it may be discontinued but hopefully it's just sold out for the year. What a beautiful shade though!

 

[Mr. Spectre]

See Michael at Kerrisdale Custom Tailors. Not the cheapest but very reliable and I have been using him for years now.

Thank you.

 

[havingaraveup]

Hi all! I'm thinking of getting a spier MTO suit for my wedding after getting one OTR this year and really liking it. My only issue with it is that the shoulders are probably a quarter inch too wide, and there's just a touch too much beefiness in the chest.

I have a couple questions for those who have been through this before. Is the unpadded spier shoulder (not the spalla camicia one) WHOLLY unpadded, or is there some canvas from the chest that sits on the shoulder?

Also, is their no-canvas option actually without any canvas, even in the lapel? I know a lot of Neapolitan tailors will have extremely lightweight canvas in their unstructured suits, and was wondering if Spier's was like that or more of a shirt-jacket.

Would it be sensible to have an unpadded shoulder and a half-canvas chest?

 

[Shoeaffic]

Anyone happen to purchase this Sportcoat? I believe it was from F22, but the fabric is still available via MTO.
View attachment 2086933

I did. Love it. The texture is super soft. The only issue is it is relatively dark, and has grayish hues, so it's not a pure green. But depending on what you're going for, it could be even more versatile.

 

[Rhodia]

I did. Love it. The texture is super soft. The only issue is it is relatively dark, and has grayish hues, so it's not a pure green. But depending on what you're going for, it could be even more versatile.

Are you still able to wear it with mid-gray to charcoal trousers?

 

[Jamesbond1]

It's actually the Dark Brown Mix PS370 2002/17.

The Fox fabric is a soft flannel and the ME is also softer to the touch being Merino. Usually, those kind of fabrics are not my first choices. I personally prefer more rustic looking and rough to the touch fabrics for FW, yet not as spongy as Harris Tweed for two simple reasons: the too country looking characteristic lending it to be too casual for my environment and the fact that Harris Tweed is difficult to work with for tailors which increases the margin of error.

The ME herringbone is reminiscent of the one I have from Moon.

Who is your tailor? Harris tweed is difficult for your tailor? Is linen also difficult for your tailor ? As it creases a lot ? Never heard of this before from any made to measure tailors that I have worked with?

Yes it is a bit rustic and that may not fit your style or wardrobe.

 

[DonRaphael]

Who is your tailor? Harris tweed is difficult for your tailor? Is linen also difficult for your tailor ? As it creases a lot ? Never heard of this before from any made to measure tailors that I have worked with?

Yes it is a bit rustic and that may not fit your style or wardrobe.

Many tailors claim this. Creasing is not an issue. Harris Tweed is spongy and has a loose weave, hence is prone to shrinkage when steamed during the production process. Something that is difficult to account for. That's why it's seldomly on spec. If you grabbed last year's and this year's iterations of the grey herringbone Harris Tweed SCs from S&M for example you'd know that. Even Rick has confirmed that they weren't not on spec (but within margin of error or borderline imo).

 

[Jamesbond1]

Many tailors claim this. Creasing is not an issue. Harris Tweed is spongy and has a loose weave, hence is prone to shrinkage when steamed during the production process. Something that is difficult to account for. That's why it's seldomly on spec. If you grabbed last year's and this year's iterations of the grey herringbone Harris Tweed SCs from S&M for example you'd know that. Even Rick has confirmed that they weren't not on spec (but within margin of error or borderline imo).

You are talking about a mass produced garment not a one off! If his made to measure is the same way now then it’s time to jump ship!

I can send anything I want to the factory I use in China no questions asked. And they all come to spec as made to measure should be. And it does not matter if I choose to pay for all machine made or extra for handmade/ machine made.

Made to measure by Spier and yes it is Harris Tweed it’s been a while though

 

[DonRaphael]

You are talking about a mass produced garment not a one off! If his made to measure is the same way now then it’s time to jump ship!

I can send anything I want to the factory I use in China no questions asked. And they all come to spec as made to measure should be. And it does not matter if I choose to pay for all machine made or extra for handmade/ machine made.

Made to measure by Spier and yes it is Harris Tweed it’s been a while though View attachment 2093989 View attachment 2093993 View attachment 2093995

Nice jacket, but the pic doesn't prove anything, unfortunately. I'm not talking about Spier specifically, I just mentioned them because it's their affiliate thread. I'm talking generally.

Make what you wish out of it, but this is a simple fact. A fabric with a looser weave will shrink more than any other fabric once it's steamed. This can't be accounted for correctly every single time during the production. Therefor, a fabric with a loose weave such as HT will be more difficult to work with and get right every single time. That's simply how natural fibers behave under duress. It's not my subjective opinion of the matter.

 

[Jamesbond1]

Nice jacket, but the pic doesn't prove anything, unfortunately. I'm not talking about Spier specifically, I just mentioned them because it's their affiliate thread. I'm talking generally.

Make what you wish out of it, but this is a simple fact. A fabric with a looser weave will shrink more than any other fabric once it's steamed. This can't be accounted for correctly every single time during the production. Therefor, a fabric with a loose weave such as HT will be more difficult to work with and get right every single time. That's simply how natural fibers behave under duress. It's not my subjective opinion of the matter.

That’s why real tailors steam fabric before they cut it.
Factories don’t care once they ship it it is their problem.

You need to get a real tailor!

 

[DonRaphael]

That’s why real tailors steam fabric before they cut it.
Factories don’t care once they ship it it is their problem.

You need to get a real tailor!

Please visit a factory in order to learn how the production actually works. Steaming and ironing is an ongoing process during production. Natural fibers aren't static.