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DonRaphael

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Navy Guabello hopsack
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Journeyman

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is it possible to make the RTW jackets have surgeon cuffs? I had one S&M jacket with surgeons cuffs and really like it.

Please, no.

RTW jackets with surgeon's cuffs are great if you only need half-an-inch of adjustment to the sleeve length. Otherwise, they are a major, major pain to get the sleeves adjusted, particularly if the fabric is patterned. Much more expensive, too, and not all tailors can do it, or are willing to do it.

The irony is that it's much cheaper to have working buttonholes added to jacket sleeves, than it is to shorten sleeves with working buttonholes (unless, as noted above, you only need them shortened a very small amount).
 

DonRaphael

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Very nice! How does the Guabello feel compared to the Dino Filarte? I know @Riva doesn't like the Dino Filarte version.
Thanks. I can relate to what Riva says. The Filarte is more flimsy and tends to pile more. Guabello definitely feels more expensive and looks more expensive close up as well since it doesn't pile.

With that being said, I still like the Filarte suiting as it's brighter in shade and thus looks more summer-y.
 

CasuallyWorked

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Please, no.

RTW jackets with surgeon's cuffs are great if you only need half-an-inch of adjustment to the sleeve length. Otherwise, they are a major, major pain to get the sleeves adjusted, particularly if the fabric is patterned. Much more expensive, too, and not all tailors can do it, or are willing to do it.

The irony is that it's much cheaper to have working buttonholes added to jacket sleeves, than it is to shorten sleeves with working buttonholes (unless, as noted above, you only need them shortened a very small amount).

Yes, I only need to shorten the sleeves at the very most 1/2 inch, probably more like 1/4 inch and they would be perfect. So you suggest not to ask my tailor to make the RTW jacket into surgeon cuffs?
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wilcthree

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Blondie87

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Does anyone have a picture of the light brown flannel trousers? On the website it looks really light and almost white to me. Just wanted to see the color in “normal” lighting/ in the wild!
 

DonRaphael

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Drake's burgundy tie is A-1, my friend. I think I have the same one in black. I've dipped my toe into the burgundy waters hard as of late. Still waiting to receive that burgundy ME hopsack sportcoat you convinced me to buy.
Thanks, mate. I grabbed it during the archive sale. Burgundy is one of my favourite colours for ties. It's versatile and sedated. But I like it even more for FW ties. It's a perfect base for madder.

I guarantee you won't be disappointed with the ME burgundy hopsack. Looking forward to see pics of you wearing it. Can't wait for FW so I can wear mine.
 
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ericgereghty

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is it possible to make the RTW jackets have surgeon cuffs? I had one S&M jacket with surgeons cuffs and really like it.
Please, god, nooooooooo.
Please, no.

RTW jackets with surgeon's cuffs are great if you only need half-an-inch of adjustment to the sleeve length. Otherwise, they are a major, major pain to get the sleeves adjusted, particularly if the fabric is patterned. Much more expensive, too, and not all tailors can do it, or are willing to do it.

The irony is that it's much cheaper to have working buttonholes added to jacket sleeves, than it is to shorten sleeves with working buttonholes (unless, as noted above, you only need them shortened a very small amount).
+100. I just get buttonholes made when getting my SM gear altered. It's not CHEAP, by any means, but far cheaper, and farrrrrr less risky than shortening from the shoulders.
 

Litigation Cures All

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Please, god, nooooooooo.

+100. I just get buttonholes made when getting my SM gear altered. It's not CHEAP, by any means, but far cheaper, and farrrrrr less risky than shortening from the shoulders.

Do S&M suits and sport coats come with enough fabric in the sleeve for a tailor to make completely functional buttonholes? I had a tailor make functional buttonholes without cutting and sewing the sleeve lining, leaving functional buttonholes that weren’t really functional lol. Not sure if that was tailor incompetence or the lack of enough fabric to fold over and sew into the cut sleeve lining.
 

Cmezavz

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If anyone interested, brand new. I am taking offers:


 

Riva

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Please, god, nooooooooo.

+100. I just get buttonholes made when getting my SM gear altered. It's not CHEAP, by any means, but far cheaper, and farrrrrr less risky than shortening from the shoulders.

I have shortened more than 20 jackets from the shoulders inc the notoriously delicate Sacco shirtlike unstructureds, there is zero risk on shortening from the shoulders as long as you know your tailor is capable enough. I've also shortened shoulders and up armholes with great success.

Other than cost which varies inc your budget, ideally all buttonholes should be REAL. It's the fastest indication that your jacket is rtw and come on really do you want fake stuff on your garments? That's like wearing a fake Rolex. Having said that since I'm too lazy to convert all mines to working buttonholes I just remove all the fake holes and kept a single button on the sleeve as accent after hemming the sleeves.
 

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