SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[wilcthree]

Man, we’re close in size. Maybe my head is too small for it, then? 7 3/8” ball cap size..

Ha! 7 1/8 hat. Yeh man, body proportions and clothes is never an exact science.

 

[dapperclassic]

2018 Moon wool and cashmere glen check and Botto flannels

 

[HistoryBuff1812]

Deleted

 

[XxLogo]

Ended up purchasing one of those Cotton/Linen shirts I hear you folks talk about, along with a White Linen shirt. Probably will end up getting a few more shirts before end of the sale too tbh.

 

[motorchang]

I'd love to stock up some linen shirts for the summer but last time I bought one(the brown stripe one that is part of liquidation now), it was way too roomier in the chest and waist than my other SM shirts in the same size that I had to take it to the tailor. Don't really feel like doing that too often.

 

[XxLogo]

I'd love to stock up some linen shirts for the summer but last time I bought one(the brown stripe one that is part of liquidation now), it was way too roomier in the chest and waist than my other SM shirts in the same size that I had to take it to the tailor. Don't really feel like doing that too often.

I have to agree on this, I got a natural linen in 14.5x33 Slim in the summer and it fits like a 15.5x34 Contemporary. So much room everywhere. Still wear it, but will eventually need to go to the tailor with the polo shirts

 

[cr2596]

I'd love to stock up some linen shirts for the summer but last time I bought one(the brown stripe one that is part of liquidation now), it was way too roomier in the chest and waist than my other SM shirts in the same size that I had to take it to the tailor. Don't really feel like doing that too often.

I have to agree on this, I got a natural linen in 14.5x33 Slim in the summer and it fits like a 15.5x34 Contemporary. So much room everywhere. Still wear it, but will eventually need to go to the tailor with the polo shirts

Linen is the only shirt material I buy Extra Slim.

 

[1st Step]

All Things Being Greene...

 

[1st Step]

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[James1051]

I'd love to stock up some linen shirts for the summer but last time I bought one(the brown stripe one that is part of liquidation now), it was way too roomier in the chest and waist than my other SM shirts in the same size that I had to take it to the tailor. Don't really feel like doing that too often.

Yes for whatever reason the all linen SM shirts have tended to run a bit on the roomy side. I don't know whether that was an intentional design choice, perhaps to offset anticipated shrinking, or whether a different factory does their linen stuff. I suspect the latter.

In any event, wanted to mention that the cotton-linen blend shirts do fit, in my experience, like your other SM cotton dress shirts, if they have any cotton-linens left in your size.

 

[ebayhtl]

(1) Probably a matter of personal taste - but how do you guys do the breaks for pants, and do you do different breaks for pants that you intend to wear with different types of shoes?

I like a no break for pants that I intend to wear with loafers/sneakers, and a slight break for those with serious work shoes. I think I didn't pull my high rise pants up as much as I should when I was measuring my pants hemming last time, so I ended up with shorter than expected pants by about 1 inch (barely misses the shoe tongue) - that appears to work great with loafers, but the missing inch means no wearing with serious shoes (unless I eliminate the cuff).

A hard thing to measure by myself, is my conclusion!

(2) where should the high rise's waistband hit on the waist - just below the belly button?

(these are the light brown Guabello high rise - great pants, just getting used to the high rise...)

 

[Waldo Jeffers]

(1) Probably a matter of personal taste - but how do you guys do the breaks for pants, and do you do different breaks for pants that you intend to wear with different types of shoes?

I like a no break for pants that I intend to wear with loafers/sneakers, and a slight break for those with serious work shoes. I think I didn't pull my high rise pants up as much as I should when I was measuring my pants hemming last time, so I ended up with shorter than expected pants by about 1 inch (barely misses the shoe tongue) - that appears to work great with loafers, but the missing inch means no wearing with serious shoes (unless I eliminate the cuff).

A hard thing to measure by myself, is my conclusion!

(2) where should the high rise's waistband hit on the waist - just below the belly button?

(these are the light brown Guabello high rise - great pants, just getting used to the high rise...)

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I bring the shoes I intend to wear most with a pair of pants when I get the pants hemmed to make sure it’s the right length for those shoes

I either go for no break or slight break usually

I think your pants look fine- maybe slightly on the short side but ok for loafers and probably boots

it’s really personal preference though

 

[ebayhtl]

I bring the shoes I intend to wear most with a pair of pants when I get the pants hemmed to make sure it’s the right length for those shoes

Thanks. My tailor is solid and dirt cheap, but one of those hole in the wall places - I usually measure myself at home and bring it to her. Stuffed up this one a little, but I will try this length a few times before doing anything.

 

[James1051]

I bring the shoes I intend to wear most with a pair of pants when I get the pants hemmed to make sure it’s the right length for those shoes
I either go for no break or slight break usually

Same. I take my new trousers to my tailor to hem and bring along a pair of shoes. He pins them each time, never asks me what length inseam I want to finish with. Its just his eye and his pins. I go slight break with suit pants and worsted separates; no break with more casual materials, ie chinos, moleskins, cords. Little longer in back at the heel than in front.

I have to say, even though I take the extra steps and pay the extra dough for a tailor's touch, I notice that my finished hemmed pants via my tailor are not consistent. While many are dead bang on, I have some that have finished too short, by up to an inch, and some that have finished too long by up to an inch. Where they are too short or too long, I have to take them back for a re-do.

Because re-dos are a pain in the neck, I have been telling my tailor recently to measure the inseam before sewing everything up per his pins, and to be sure that each trouser as pinned is within a half inch either way of 32" measured at the inseam. All of my 'just right' trousers fall within this sweet spot.

The other thing I am doing is trying SM's hemming service. No pins, just pick an inseam measurement. Waiting now to see the results of that experiment.

 

[Jlee80]

Same. I take my new trousers to my tailor to hem and bring along a pair of shoes. He pins them each time, never asks me what length inseam I want to finish with. Its just his eye and his pins. I go slight break with suit pants and worsted separates; no break with more casual materials, ie chinos, moleskins, cords. Little longer in back at the heel than in front.

I have to say, even though I take the extra steps and pay the extra dough for a tailor's touch, I notice that my finished hemmed pants via my tailor are not consistent. While many are dead bang on, I have some that have finished too short, by up to an inch, and some that have finished too long by up to an inch. Where they are too short or too long, I have to take them back for a re-do.

Because re-dos are a pain in the neck, I have been telling my tailor recently to measure the inseam before sewing everything up per his pins, and to be sure that each trouser as pinned is within a half inch either way of 32" measured at the inseam. All of my 'just right' trousers fall within this sweet spot.

The other thing I am doing is trying SM's hemming service. No pins, just pick an inseam measurement. Waiting now to see the results of that experiment.

My tailor is extremely solid. I know the sweet spot of the inseam and outseam I prefer. I can say that at least for me, using the outseam has delivered great results!
For my most recent order I opted for the S&M hemming. I’ll provide my feedback once they arrive.