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Shell Cordovan Wallet Pron

SkyDemon

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Just wanted to say thanks for posting this. I hadn't seen his work before. I bought a shell cordovan bifold and a CXL bifold from J Michael Ashland this week and they are both fantastic.

No problem, glad you also likes his work, he used to carry very nice bison leather too, it has very nice smell and pull-up effect, not sure why he stop using it.
 

minthe

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Hi Deusis,

I'm sorry for digging out such an old reply ... but would you say the picture of the Italian gunmetal shell is accurate in colour? It's so much lighter and more blueish from what I'd expect a gunmetal to be. However, I am super curious about this shade... for a set of bespoke shoes and self-made bag.

Thank you!
 

Deusis

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Hi Deusis,

I'm sorry for digging out such an old reply ... but would you say the picture of the Italian gunmetal shell is accurate in colour? It's so much lighter and more blueish from what I'd expect a gunmetal to be. However, I am super curious about this shade... for a set of bespoke shoes and self-made bag.

Thank you!

Hello - not a problem at all. This shell is from Conceria Cloe.

The color is pretty accurate. The particular shell I received didn't have the proper finishing on it from the tannery. Here is another photo of the same shell on a pair of boots from Ron Rider. This color is more accurate.

It was a touch of blue in it. Depending on the tannery, the color could obviously vary. Let me know if you have any other questions!
 

Deusis

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This special wallet is up on the website now. This particular makeup is one of my favorites I've made (I probably say this to almost every new wallet I make).

The exterior is made from Horween Glazed Natural Shell Cordovan. The special part isn't the exterior but the interior... Horween 100% Vegetable Tanned American Natural Calfskin from the 1940s. This 70 year old leather still looks great and has awesome texture. Very much like a thinner, more firm tempered Essex tannage. Handstitched up with Japanese waxed thread. Full image album here.




 

Deusis

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So I recently purchased a Techsew 2700 Pro during their Black Friday sale. After a journey around the US because it got lost, the machine finally arrived on Monday. Last night, I was able to finally sit down and spend some time with the machine. Prior to this, I had a cheap $100 refurbished Kenmore (I think) sewing machine I bought off Craigslist to learn the basics of sewing machines. After using that, I decided I wasn't going to buy a machine unless I bought one of the better machines available (for what I would need).

Anyway... Techsew had it all tuned up for #69 thread. I started messing around with some #92 thread last night. I had a few pieces of scratched/imperfect shell cordovan laying around so I figured I'd run some samples on that. I had tested some veg tan, harness, bridle, a few oil tans, but shell cordovan is mainly what I work with so I jumped right in!

The main photos are of a Shinki Hikaku Brown Shell Cordovan with brown #92 thread. I finished the edges and assembled as I normally would, but machine stitched it instead of hand stitching it. I am very happy with how the front and back side turned out. That is one of my biggest concerns with machine stitching is having a nice looking front and a sloppy, blown out back. I think the machine handled it pretty well.

I still have a lot to learn about machines and don't pretend to know everything, but I was eager to share my initial work.

My original intention for buying this machine is for quicker prototyping, more totes and bags, and possibly some more economically priced wallets. I'll still stick to hand stitching but it is fun to have a new tool to use.



 

Churchill W

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So I recently purchased a Techsew 2700 Pro during their Black Friday sale. After a journey around the US because it got lost, the machine finally arrived on Monday. Last night, I was able to finally sit down and spend some time with the machine. Prior to this, I had a cheap $100 refurbished Kenmore (I think) sewing machine I bought off Craigslist to learn the basics of sewing machines. After using that, I decided I wasn't going to buy a machine unless I bought one of the better machines available (for what I would need). Anyway... Techsew had it all tuned up for #69 thread. I started messing around with some #92 thread last night. I had a few pieces of scratched/imperfect shell cordovan laying around so I figured I'd run some samples on that. I had tested some veg tan, harness, bridle, a few oil tans, but shell cordovan is mainly what I work with so I jumped right in! The main photos are of a Shinki Hikaku Brown Shell Cordovan with brown #92 thread. I finished the edges and assembled as I normally would, but machine stitched it instead of hand stitching it. I am very happy with how the front and back side turned out. That is one of my biggest concerns with machine stitching is having a nice looking front and a sloppy, blown out back. I think the machine handled it pretty well. I still have a lot to learn about machines and don't pretend to know everything, but I was eager to share my initial work. My original intention for buying this machine is for quicker prototyping, more totes and bags, and possibly some more economically priced wallets. I'll still stick to hand stitching but it is fun to have a new tool to use.
Looks good, thanks for sharing.
 

GizzMo

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How difference between shell cordovan and reverse shell cordovan?

How feel when touch and mirror look when use a long times?
 

GizzMo

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Hi Everyone, once again I got my 3rd Shell Cordovan men's bifold wallet from J Michael Ashland OR. This time the wallet is made with Italian Shell Cordovan by "Toscana Italia" tannery in Navy colour and inside is black Horween chromexcel horsehide. Compared from the pervious shell bifold wallet from J Michael, this one has some improvements, the wallet is now slightly taller and wider which makes putting in cards/cash much easier even it still new not yet broken-in. Also this time the center piece leather is not stitching down with the interior card pockets and the exterior shell, so that it relaxes the hidden pocket that makes the hidden pockets much easier to access and J Michael still cuts extra tab at the bottom of the center piece which will hides cash in cash compartment so it makes the wallet look more clean and classy when open
.

The Packaging:


Front Closed:



Open:


The interior should be black:

I interest this brand too,look great but it's look quite thick.
 

classicsaphic

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Hey everyone!

One of my shell wallets has had some weird stuff happening with it and I was hoping to get some feedback from all the incredibly knowledable shell gurus on this thread.

Basically the spine of my wallet is really rough and dry. My previous wallets never had this issue so I'm wondering if there was an issue with the way the leather was finished. Has anyone seen this happen to shell before? Is this normal? Am I just freaking out over nothing? I'd appreciate any feedback! Thanks in advance guys!
400


EDIT: Thanks to those who have replied! I am at ease knowing that this is normal!
 
Last edited:

Churchill W

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Hey everyone!

One of my shell wallets has had some weird stuff happening with it and I was hoping to get some feedback from all the incredibly knowledable shell gurus on this thread.

Basically the spine of my wallet is incredibly rough and dry and looks almost cracked. My previous wallets never had this issue so I'm wondering if there was an issue with the way the leather was finished. Has anyone seen this happen to shell before? Is this normal? Am I just freaking out over nothing? I'd appreciate any feedback! Thanks in advance guys!
400

Seems normal to me. The bending point is gong to be more stressed. I think my natural shell Little Louis wallet has this too.
 

chev4x4

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Hey everyone!

One of my shell wallets has had some weird stuff happening with it and I was hoping to get some feedback from all the incredibly knowledable shell gurus on this thread.

Basically the spine of my wallet is incredibly rough and dry and looks almost cracked. My previous wallets never had this issue so I'm wondering if there was an issue with the way the leather was finished. Has anyone seen this happen to shell before? Is this normal? Am I just freaking out over nothing? I'd appreciate any feedback! Thanks in advance guys!

What are those tiny white dots on the leather?
 

AriGold

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What are those tiny white dots on the leather? 


possibly *** stains particularly if wallet is kept in the front pocket. for the drying feel, its quite common on cordovan, use a bit of conditioner on the wallet and should be fine. Sparingly please.
 

classicsaphic

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Seems normal to me. The bending point is gong to be more stressed. I think my natural shell Little Louis wallet has this too.


I'm glad it's not anything out of the ordinary. My other shell items have never showed anything like this so I was a bit worried. Thanks for the help!
 

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