Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread.

[Serad]

Also wanted to drop this deal at Matches. 40mm harness Wyatts for 378 EUR in size 43.5. if you're US you can also use the 10extra code for another 10% off. Pretty sick.

 

[dieseltheory]

hey guys quick question on how you all wear the 3 passant belt....

I wear mine on the second or third hole?

Any thoughts? I'm not sure if that feels too "short" or not, but I think it looks fine?

Let me know thx

 

[Trixz]

Is there any major difference between the older D02 and the current ones? I can't tell any difference with my D02 waxed from this FW 18 season from earlier stuff. Also whether to get them tailored or not I guess depends on whether you want the hemmed 'runway' look or how most people seem to wear it, unnhemmed with stacks.

Yes and no about differences with todays D02 cuts/fits. In 2017 the fit was drastically different and by that I mean a couple of inches, which matter for waist etc.

See this:

Many people are asking and answering questions on this forum about the difference between Hedi and AV D02 denim. The questions seem to be redundant and this post will no doubt be lost to new comers and the questions will repeat. However, the answers thus far have been vague about the differences, so this comparison is in the hopes of having a more objective understanding of differences between the two through measurements taken, which have been researched with the source of Mr. Porter size help. The caveat to this comparison is that measurements vary from one season to the next regardless of the designer. Hedi would go as small as 14cm hem (leg) openings on D02 (skinny) towards the beginning of his leadership at YSL to 16cm during later seasons, whereas AV is going as big as 17.25cm hem openings on D02, which for people that have followed SL is really .25 away from the size of D01 slim fit jeans, not skinny. Another caveat is that measurements vary depending on the size of the denim one purchases. The main differences between Hedi and AV is this:

Hedi has solid seamed pockets, whereas AV has yoked pockets.

Hedi has a very minimalist approach to denim without additional flair, whereas AV has embroidery, off-pocket design (back pockets that show a shadow effect like the pocket has moved), and emblems on his jeans (think the star).

The cut, and IMO the most important part, Hedi was slimmer and more streamlined to match the footwear to create a seamless silhouette hence the smaller leg openings, whereas AV has cut the denim to being more of a slim fit, which creates a more relaxed fit rather than tight or skinny. Here is some measurements between the two in inches and only the hem with cm included for references with it divided by two for the measurement when laying flat:

Hedi

Size waist Inside Leg Rise Leg Opening (Hem) Outside Leg(length)

28 30 32 9.5 12(30cm/15) 41

29 30.5 32 9.5 12(30cm/15) 41.5

30 31.5 32 10 12.5(32cm/16) 41.5

31 32.5 32.5 10 12.5 (32cm/16) 42

32 34.5 32.5 10 12.5(32cm/16) 42.5

34 36 32.5 10 13.5(34cm/17) 43

36 38 32.5 10.5 14 (36cm/18) 43.5


AV

Size waist Inside Leg Rise Leg Opening (Hem) Outside Leg(length)

28 30.5 33 9.5 12(30cm/15) 42.5

29 31.5 33 9.5 12(30cm/15) 42.5

30 32.5 33 10 12(30cm/15) 43

31 34 33 10 13.5(34cm/17) 43

32 34.5 33 10 13.5(34cm/17) 43

33 35.5 34 10 13.5(34cm/17) 44

34 37 34 10 14(36cm/18) 44

36 40 34 10.5 14(36cm/18) 44



As you gather the differences between Hedi and AV are an inch or cm.

Size: the only key difference is that Av has added a size 33 (this could be obscured from the source, not sure if YSL sold size 33)

Waist: Hedi starts at size 30 inches and then moves up a half an inch from 28 to 29, then a full inch from 30 to 31 and then two inches from sizes 32 to 34 to 36. AV starts at 30.5 then moves a full inch to two full inches per size. Thus, AV’s are slightly wider in the waist for all pairs.

Inside leg: Hedi’s length is shorter and goes from 32 to 32.5 depending on size, whereas AV’s length is longer and goes from 33 to 34.

Rise: the same!

Leg openings (hem): Hedi’s has more varied leg openings by .05 an inch as the waist size moves up, whereas as AV’s seems to jump an inch and a half or 4 centimeters from sizes 28-30 to 31-33. IMO Hedi will have a more proportioned leg opening per size.

Outside length: Again, much like leg opening, Hedi has a more varied length depending on waist size, whereas AV’s seem to be more set lengths.

Overall: Hedi’s are more differentiated by measurement per size as opposed to AV’s. Why? My guess is that a more streamlined or stock lengths and such can save money at the warehouses where produced. Hedi’s denim seems to be closer to a couture piece whereas AV’s are more likely to need tailoring or size differences. For all sizes the cut has changed, some with more differences than others. The best bet to stay consistent with the aesthetic if you have grown accustomed to Hedi is to size down and get a nice tailor.

With that said in 2018 AV has come back to the original D02 cuts from Hedi due to costumer backlash based on a SA at the mens US flagship in beverly hills and can be seen by the true 15cm and 16cm that have come out in 2018. Also, the dudes question was about stacking.

 

[Trixz]

The D02 is the classic skinny jean probably also what most models are wearing (and for sure the most popular SLP jeans on market). Not sure about other numbers, I know D14 is slim fit low waist.

D04's are the motocross denim
D08's are womens motorcross
D10's are MW flares iirc

most models with D02s tailored to fit them, they aren't OTR.

D10s are just mid waisted D02’s

which ones are flares? I thought D05's were mid waisted D02s

By flares I assume you mean the bootcut. Those are D17. D10 are midwaist skinny legs

Here is what I know:
D01 - D01 M/SL-LW (Men’s Slim) and D01 W/SK-LW (women’s skinny)

D02 - D02 M/SK-LW Men’s Skinny and D02 W/SK-MW (Women’s skinny mid waist with back pocket zippers)

D03 - D03 M/ST-LW Men’s Straight

D04 - D01 W/SK-HW Women’s Skinny High waist and Men’s motocross

D05 - D01 W/SK-MW Women’s Skinny Mid waist

D06 - ???

D07 - ???

D08 -Women’s motocross

D09 - D09 W/FL-RW Women’s flare runway

D10 - D10 M/SK-MW Men’s Skinny mid waist

D11 - D11 W/BL-HW Women’s bootcut high waist

D12 - ????

D13 - D13 M/SK-LW Knee rips and also D13 M/SK-HW Bleached denim

D14 - D14 M/SL-LW Embroidered slim and paint slim and acid wash greys and D14 W/CF-HW

D15 - D15 M/BC-LW and D15 W/FL-HW ankle flair

D16 - D16 W/FL- LW Women’s cropped flared leg

D17 - D17 W/FL-MW Women’s cropped mid waist flares and D17 M/FL-MW mens flared mid waist raw hem

D18 - D18 M/SK-LW Men’s cropped leg slightly also D18 W/80-LW Womens 80’s/boyfriend and also D18 W/BG-LW dunno

D19 - D19 W/SL-HW Women’s slim leg high waist

D20 - D20 W/TS-MW Women’s shadow pocket (TS???)

D21 - D20 W/SL-LW Asymmetric

D22 - University patch (Maybe)

D23 - ????

D24 - D24 W/BC-LW Women’s bootcut

D25 - D25 W/BC-LW Women’s bootcut cropped low waist

D26- ????

D27 - D27 W/FL-MW Women’s Flared leg mid waist

 

[xczuman]

Can anyone comment on the how the later seasons calf L17(2017 production) compare to Hedi eras? I know the FW13 L17s are considered by many to be the best but were the calf L17s after that pretty much the same? Thank you

 

[Trixz]

You know how this year Saint Laurent added the small little leather tab coming off the right back pocket of the denim?

https://www.forbes.com/sites/michel...ent-over-trademarked-pocket-tab/#6cd5beeb6ddb

 

[Metall17]

New to forum, looking to buy Nappy Suede Wyatt, which years were the nappy Wyatts produced?

 

[ViceofGucci]

nappy suede wyatts were produced for fw14 and L17 from hedi were more fitted I can get into a 50 from the vac seasons but needed a 52 for hedi seasons

 

[Adamdraps]

nappy suede wyatts were produced for fw14 and L17 from hedi were more fitted I can get into a 50 from the vac seasons but needed a 52 for hedi seasons

15 as well

 

[SirGrotius]

Trixz - interesting, I had noticed the little leather pull tag on the pocket and thought that it was a subtle branding element. I could see Levis pushing back against it, although it seems a bit far fetched to me considering there are so many other elements in jeans that are similar. Great breakdown on the jeans above, btw.

Has anyone experience with the "ebony" Wyatts, or ebony SL anything in the boots? I'm wondering how they'd be styled, but something draws me to them, maybe it's the richness and uniqueness of the color.

 

[Trixz]

Trixz - interesting, I had noticed the little leather pull tag on the pocket and thought that it was a subtle branding element. I could see Levis pushing back against it, although it seems a bit far fetched to me considering there are so many other elements in jeans that are similar. Great breakdown on the jeans above, btw.

Has anyone experience with the "ebony" Wyatts, or ebony SL anything in the boots? I'm wondering how they'd be styled, but something draws me to them, maybe it's the richness and uniqueness of the color.

I agree it seems unreasonable. The article seems to point to Levi's using the case as a fear tactic for other brands smaller not to F around. Didn't Levi's create denim? In which case they could sue anyone.

Thanks - the breakdown came out of boredom over the holiday break and seems like people have always been confused by the denim identification. Oddly it really bothers me now I don't know some of them but that's my OCD talking.

I don't have any experience with the ebony Wyatts. However I have been on the hunt for the leather version from the previous season, although they are not ebony, the are "dark brown" but similar. I've only been able to find them in Saint Laurent stores in japan and this shady site that I won't touch: http://www.crispinkorschen.co.nz/la...k-brown-boots-for-men-sale-online-p-1895.html
I'm personally after the leather version because I'm in Minnesota and Suede just isn't that practical here with all the snow, ice and salt, as well as I have many suede versions already. Otherwise I think the ebony is dope (does that slang speak to my age?) or sneaky baller.
Here is what I'm after:

For everyones reference here is what you are after:

I think that this color is very versatile. Most likely work best with blue, charcoal and grey either jeans or chinos. Although "considered" by more traditionalist not to wear dark brown with black I think it can be pulled off very well IMO by both contrasting like we have seen since Hedi with bright browns segro's, as well as a subtle difference with near shades. Here are some style pics - dunno if this is the idea you are after.
Grey denim and Navy Sweater

Black suit

Blue denim

Black denim again

 

[kubrick555]

With that said in 2018 AV has come back to the original D02 cuts from Hedi due to costumer backlash based on a SA at the mens US flagship in beverly hills and can be seen by the true 15cm and 16cm that have come out in 2018. Also, the dudes question was about stacking.

So basically the AV cut is closer to the later Hedi stuff.
The days of 14 cm SLP cuts (which seems to be the most desired, 2013/2014 basically) likely gone. Will be interesting to see how Celine is cut.
In the meantime, Amiri stacked (minimal distressing) is 14 cm and basically ripping off early Hedi cut.

 

[papillo]

I agree it seems unreasonable. The article seems to point to Levi's using the case as a fear tactic for other brands smaller not to F around. Didn't Levi's create denim? In which case they could sue anyone.

The thing is when people see the tab on jeans (especially the red tab), you automatically associate it with levis. They have a registered trademark for clothes on jeans and other items of clothing. I personally think they have a pretty strong case and would be surprised if they don't reach some sort of a settlement and it goes to a full blown trial.

 

[SirGrotius]

Trixz - great points above, and I prefer that leather version you noted from last season. It looks more versatile and elegant somehow, and yes, you're right, much better for Minnesota! I'm in PA/NY so similar situation; I can appreciate the patina on something such as that versus the dirtiness that comes with suede in inclement weather.

 

[zebidee]

Trixz - interesting, I had noticed the little leather pull tag on the pocket and thought that it was a subtle branding element. I could see Levis pushing back against it, although it seems a bit far fetched to me considering there are so many other elements in jeans that are similar. Great breakdown on the jeans above, btw.

Has anyone experience with the "ebony" Wyatts, or ebony SL anything in the boots? I'm wondering how they'd be styled, but something draws me to them, maybe it's the richness and uniqueness of the color.

I've got them recently and is a replacement for my worn out "coffee" brown Wyatts from 2015. I really like the darkened brass accents.