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HommeBoy007

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Yeah, the "heaven" jacket is hideous, but for me, this jacket represents the absolute worst of that transitionary period between Hedi and Vaccarello:
34799572SG_14_a_V4.jpg


Apologies if anyone actually likes this one, but I find it to be the most unwearable item I've seen the brand produce.

Also, at the risk of sounding like a Vaccarello fanboy, I'm not sure if these designs can be attributed to him, even though he was the creative director at the time, the way that FW 18 and SS 19 can (I may be in denial here). It seems to me that those latter two collections, besides being quite good, are more distinctively his. I could've sworn someone in this thread said that in this transitionary period between Hedi and Vacc it was the former assistants to Hedi at SLP that were designing the bulk of the pieces.

It's my understanding that he had full creative control as SS17 so most if not all the designs produced from then until the present can be attributed to he and his team. While I do agree that his more recent seasons have been his strongest, I don't think they hold a candle to Hedi's work at SLP or Celine. I've always viewed womenswear as his strength and I think he should focus on that because Hedi is definitely looking to poach SLP's current customers
 

HommeBoy007

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And is just me or all these newer Wyatt renditions ruining the shoe? I've seen so many distasteful textures and leathers that I'm almost completely turned off from any Wyatt that isn't from 2015 or earlier.
 

GG Allin

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There's some new **** up on the ysl site. Some things look really great to me, but there's a good amount of stuff that is way off the mark too. We're gonna need Sirgrotius to get that spider sweater to redeem himself after the skeleton one.
 

GG Allin

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It's my understanding that he had full creative control as SS17 so most if not all the designs produced from then until the present can be attributed to he and his team. While I do agree that his more recent seasons have been his strongest, I don't think they hold a candle to Hedi's work at SLP or Celine. I've always viewed womenswear as his strength and I think he should focus on that because Hedi is definitely looking to poach SLP's current customers
I feel you on preferring Hedi's SLP work, especially in its heyday (although I'm a Celine-skeptic at the moment). What was so amazing about those early Hedi SLP seasons, in my opinion, is how virtually all of the pieces were wearable. I know he faced a lot of heat from fashion people for producing designs that were too linked to past subcultures, and just stuff that we've seen a million times before, but I'm not into clothes for contemplative purposes. In fact, I'm not sure I'm really into fashion at all. I'm baffled by the praise that Michele gets for Gucci, because virtually all of that stuff looks hideous and unwearable to me.

Some of this Vaccarello stuff is totally unwearable (don't look at the "denim" section of the site if you don't have a vomit bag to hand), but I'm kinda digging the vibe he's putting together with blazers and ****.
 

SirGrotius

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There's some new **** up on the ysl site. Some things look really great to me, but there's a good amount of stuff that is way off the mark too. We're gonna need Sirgrotius to get that spider sweater to redeem himself after the skeleton one.

Haha, this is spot on. I own the Dinosaur sweater, which I'm unsure if it was an Hedi creation or his design team. It gets a lot of attention, but I haven't broken it out this year. I could see the spider sweater working in an ugly-sweater party. You're right though, a lot of the blazers are spot on. I'm wearing one now and it's like a compliment magnet.

Sadly, I had to return the skeleton sweater. The wool was too itchy and I don't always like wearing long sleeves underneath.

I wonder how AV gets license to create so many pieces. One assumes they're selling right, I mean the plethora is pretty broad. Since I'm a product of the 90s, a lot of pieces appeal to me.
 

SirGrotius

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Another vote for boot trees. Good for the shape and a little more sophisticated looking. It'll give you collection some gravitas literally.
 

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