Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread.

[fatboyslim]

Been flipping through Hedi's anthology of a decade this weekend. Anyone ever think about his photography work in relation to the new SLP stuff? I'm starting to think the joke's on anyone buying the stuff think it'll make them cool, as what's interesting for Hedi appears to be indifference

Any thoughts?

Even though I understand your sentiment, I've never quite bought into the notion that a designer's opinion should dictate how your wear something. I dress primarily for myself, and of course I'm shallow enough that I want to look attractive in other people's eyes. Whether or not I'm grungy, carefree and indifferent enough for Hedi? Couldn't care less.

 

[creepinatshirt]

^ agreed, definitely dress for myself at the end of the day but id be lying if i said i didnt care if i look attractive in other peoples eyes, its not so much about what people think of the clothing but more down to the self-centreness of being "attractive". Wether or not that coincides with the designer isnt that much of an issue for me.

Plus i cant lie and say i dont like the attention/looks that i sometimes/rarely get when i wear boots with a defined heel or a big hat. Haha.

 

[SirGrotius]

Affected indifference has always been the height of fashion. I think Lagerfeld said that fashion is about poking fun at the lower classes, and thus their (proletariat) supposed indifference/ignorance is affected indifference in fashion.

I'm not even joking that's what's so weird about it.

 

[needhelp123]

I love attention whether its negative or positive, in fact i could say that i prefer negative attention, positive attention is just a quick up down look, negative attention you see emotion and sometimes get called names if you're lucky. Being provocative is the best.

In my country where we are light years BEHIND in fashion, people are very intrigued by Rick Owens clothing, i love when i go out in all black Rick Owens and everyone stares at me like i'm an alien.

 

[numb3rs]

Hey guys,

will a snall black cotton pocket tee from FW2013 fit me well if I'm 5"11 and 140 lbs?

Thanks

 

[therattler]

Affected indifference has always been the height of fashion. I think Lagerfeld said that fashion is about poking fun at the lower classes, and thus their (proletariat) supposed indifference/ignorance is affected indifference in fashion.

I'm not even joking that's what's so weird about it.

On one level I sort of think that Hedi's SLP work directly negates this, as he gives a clear **** you to high end fashion by referencing subculture directly. In doing this, most other designers are made to look like they're dressing no one. He one ups everyone's pseudo indifference.

But when looking at his photography, it begs the question why you would buy SLP stuff when the essence of the look is found all over at a tenth of the price. Do I really look any cooler, or more attractive in my 280 GBP D02's compared to the jeans I used to sew to be skinny? Was the look more authentic when I used to play in a (******) band on the road?

Sometimes I think he's doing the local music scenes around the world a service by making them the model which everyone wants to emulate. Nonetheless, they don't care.

 

[kaisaZ]

But when looking at his photography, it begs the question why you would buy SLP stuff when the essence of the look is found all over at a tenth of the price. Do I really look any cooler, or more attractive in my 280 GBP D02's compared to the jeans I used to sew to be skinny? Was the look more authentic when I used to play in a (******) band on the road?

This is the main point I am often arguing with friends who are (still) in those subcultures. Selling a look that is basically about the non-caring for the commercial/consumerist attitude of our society for 100s and 1000s of dollars is not in the spirit of the subculture. It's really hard to argue why a 500$ T-Shirt or 400$ Jeans should be more rock'n'roll (or punkrock, grunge, whatever), than the equivalent for 1/10th of the price (or even less).

Sometimes I think he's doing the local music scenes around the world a service by making them the model which everyone wants to emulate. Nonetheless, they don't care.

Absolutely right. I remember talking to the Eight Legs couple of years ago about their gig at the Dior Homme show and while they loved the attention they received (it boosted their music career in Europe) and the free clothes they got from Dior Homme, it seemed like they really didn't care that much for Dior Homme at all.



I myself love the collections because they bring back memories of the days when I was hanging out in the music scenes, while they also provide quality pieces (shoes, leather jackets, jeans) that will last me for ages. However, I also have the impression that many people that buy into the collections don't do it for the love of the music or subculture, but just because it's another luxury brand that is currently really hyped (so they can post more outfit pictures to get additional likes on their Instagram accounts...)

Just my 2c

 

[therattler]

Not that I think there is an 'authentic' or like true SLP consumer, but Wyatts + a system of a down/fear of god metallica tee selfie makes me want to walk into the sea

 

[Prudy]

Not that I think there is an 'authentic' or like true SLP consumer, but Wyatts + a system of a down/fear of god metallica tee selfie makes me want to walk into the sea

IMO don't worry about what other people look like so much, it really has nothing to do w/ your style.

If you don't like Metallica, don't wear a Metallica T.

Style is personal, the clothing means something different to everyone (including Hedi, I'm sure). If it speaks to you, wear it as you see fit. Opposition is cool but ultimately you have to actually have a point of view as well.

 

[neonrider]

of course as sl is more and more successful there will be questions of authenticity and legitimacy raised. are you wearing because you get it, or because you want to be seen as someone who gets it? what is there to "get" in the first place? what i wear in sl now isn't really different from what i wore as a 16 year old punk, in a superficial sense. a biker jacket, skinny jeans, shirts with stuff all over them. but it is perfectly fitted, beautifully designed, and very carefully thought out.

in that sense, there is indeed something to "get'. but if you're focused on what fashion "says", rather than what style is, you won't get it. the point of this stuff isn't really to signal anything to anyone except yourself, and maybe a small number of other people who get precisely that point (like prudy says). in that sense, it's both true luxury and why it's the definition of cool.

i don't think philosophical discussions about this stuff can ever really get the above, to be honest, because i think it's kind of post-philosophy. like there are many wannabe goth ninja designers referencing all sorts of arcane concepts and ideas...hedi's just making awesome stuff for people to love because it lets them be who they are. in that sense, it's not really an intellectual exercise.

 

[therattler]

I agree with both you neon, and prudy - it speaks to me so I wear it, much to the detriment of my bank balance.

There will never be an objective criteria from which to judge the stuff. But, unlike so much fashion, SLP does raise some interesting questions about conspicuous consumption. That someone has finally rejected the swirl of empty fashion signifiers in spite of a direct reference and wrapped it in luxury is an interesting cultural phenomenon.

And it matters not what Hedi would say about it all, though I would listen.

 

[Babar]



I agree with both you neon, and prudy - it speaks to me so I wear it, much to the detriment of my bank balance.

There will never be an objective criteria from which to judge the stuff. But, unlike so much fashion, SLP does raise some interesting questions about conspicuous consumption. That someone has finally rejected the swirl of empty fashion signifiers in spite of a direct reference and wrapped it in luxury is an interesting cultural phenomenon.

And it matters not what Hedi would say about it all, though I would listen.

Trend-setters wearing cheap looking clothes is indeed an interesting form of conspicuous consumption long known in sociology: Members of upper classes adopt the styles of lower classes to differentiate themselves from middle classes, who wouldn’t be caught dead in lower-class styles because they’re the ones in danger of being mistaken for them.

The middle classes then start to copy the trend-setters since the media and the merchandisers learn to market each new wave more efficiently, sending the upper classes in search for new styles.

 

[therattler]

I think this theory of consumption is outdated. First it presumes awareness and acceptance of class status, and thus gives class too much ontological weight. These divisions have been totally absorbed by a proliferation of models of identity and codes of fashion. The metastatic amount of mens fashion archetypes here are telling - and on what basis would you claim that one is representational of a class interest compared to the rest? Plus, the consuming masses don't care, they're more concerned with their so-called identity.

Again, what's so interesting about SLP is Hedi's insistence on an objective referent, which seems unique these days. But maybe we should get back to the clothes. I love when reviewers say things like 'more of the same' or 'give us something new', i.e. that Tim Blanks dude on Style.com

 

[Delanho]

Really interesting discussion. I don't think I can really contribute but.. I'm into hip hop music and have never liked rock music at all, much less been a part of its culture in any way (no, I don't wear a gucci belt and jordans with my d02s). Still, I dress in SLP and clothes with similar fit and style. I'm not sure why the style appeals to me. Perhaps its something simple – I just like the look, but of course I'm also drawn to the luxury.

This is one aspect that I don't think many people can argue. The high end nature of SLP appeals to everyone that wears it for reasons already pointed out. If you didn't care then you would wear brands for 1/10 of the price. Even if the fit is superior, I think the stereotypical 'rocker type' is not envisioned to wear any designer label because he doesn't care. They wear beat up denim with rips and old biker jackets. I think maybe that contrast is the cool part about SLP. The ideas behind the rock n roll culture clash with SLP, but hedi doesn't care.

 

[Delanho]

In addition... quick question. I've got a hunter backpack that is pretty new (9ish/10 condition) and there is fraying on the (nylon?) loop on the top of the backpack. I don't ever hang the backpack from this loop, especially when it has items in it. Does anyone have suggestions on how to combat this fraying?