Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread.

[Sebastian_Flyte]

a) It's too soon to really judge Saint Laurent mens based on these. Hedi barely had time to crank Mens S/S 13 out and it was shown only to buyers without a proper fashion show. Let's wait for his first proper runway collection.

b) That said, I agree that it's largely underwhelming. The dress shoes are great, but overpriced, which brings me to

c) Prices are outrageous. $500 black T-shirt?

 

[pickpackpockpuck]

Interesting piece on YSL's (eh, SLP's, or SL's, or SL by HS's) PR issues with the new branding:
http://www.businessoffashion.com/2012/10/a-wake-up-call-for-ysls-pr-team.html

Still feels too early to make any real judgment on the men's stuff, but the images so far are very familiar...

 

[darkknight]

i rike the shoes

http://beforeyoukillusall.blogspot.com/2012/10/lookbook-saint-laurent-skinny-feat.html

 

[SirGrotius]

Favorite thing about the collection is the photography on the site. It's really well done.

 

[KingJulien]

Favorite thing about the collection is the photography on the site. It's really well done.

He's always done it himself.

 

[Mesta]

Dude, there's leather on it.
Navy is already sold out though.
lol.

 

[NaTionS]

What do those zips up by the neck do? Does the hood come off?

 

[teenagelightning]



What do those zips up by the neck do? Does the hood come off?

the hood zips off and then the body zips off and then the wearer's right to buy his own clothes zips off and then all our problems are solved

 

[darkknight]

you get a second chance to buy hedi's dior homme, but it'll cost you double :tounge:

 

[sq4you]



Interesting, but want to see more. At first glance, I'm not thrilled with the logo, and feel like the items, as lovely as they are, look like what he did at Dior. What made the original Hedi YSL back in 2000/01 so interesting was how it fused the YSL creativity with a new aesthetic that felt light years ahead. Just seeing these items, it feels like Hedi at Dior in 2003 or 2004... meaning 8-9 years ago.
BUT, I will follow this with interest, though I question (as I did back in 2008) whether Hedi has in him real creative genius or just a single aesthetic that happened to hit at just the right time.
I didn't see growth or development from him 2000-2008 like I would have wanted given how much I loved what he did in the beginning, and at this first glance I don't see that his time away from fashion has taught him much.

This is a problem that every single designer deals with. And it is a insurmountable burden that every consumer places upon the designers.
The struggle to remain true to one's roots while progressing. The two are essentially a juxtaposition.

Designers who remain faithful to their aesthetic are branded repetitive or boring.
Hedi, Neil Barrett, Dsquared, Pilati, Bailey, Decarnin, Thom Browne, Yohji, KVA, BoO, etc

Designers who progress and experiment lose their appeal because they "dont deliver the same quality as they used to."
Raf, Rick, Ossendrijver, Dries, Rei Kawakubo, Damir is being accused already because he is straying away from bedouin, etc

The odd ones out are the ones whose careers are abruptly cut short for one reason or another. Hedi could fall into this category but I'd say it's more guys like Margiela and Alexander McQueen.

It's impossible to cater to both camps of customer....like liberals vs conservatives.

I don't think we should bash Hedi if he simply replicates everything he did for Dior but at YSL. It's an awesome aesthetic and I think he is creative enough to consistently put out new collections that adhere to his vision but with subtle variations. Expecting a completely new, fresh and modern idea from Hedi would be as unfair as has been expected of Jil. There is a reason newcomers have a huge advantage when entering any industry/field; they offer a fresh perspective which "by-gone" individuals simply can't deliver.

 

[rach2jlc]



This is a problem that every single designer deals with. And it is a insurmountable burden that every consumer places upon the designers.
The struggle to remain true to one's roots while progressing. The two are essentially a juxtaposition.
Designers who remain faithful to their aesthetic are branded repetitive or boring.
Hedi, Neil Barrett, Dsquared, Pilati, Bailey, Decarnin, Thom Browne, Yohji, KVA, BoO, etc
Designers who progress and experiment lose their appeal because they "dont deliver the same quality as they used to."
Raf, Rick, Ossendrijver, Dries, Rei Kawakubo, Damir is being accused already because he is straying away from bedouin, etc
The odd ones out are the ones whose careers are abruptly cut short for one reason or another. Hedi could fall into this category but I'd say it's more guys like Margiela and Alexander McQueen.
It's impossible to cater to both camps of customer....like liberals vs conservatives.
I don't think we should bash Hedi if he simply replicates everything he did for Dior but at YSL. It's an awesome aesthetic and I think he is creative enough to consistently put out new collections that adhere to his vision but with subtle variations. Expecting a completely new, fresh and modern idea from Hedi would be as unfair as has been expected of Jil. There is a reason newcomers have a huge advantage when entering any industry/field; they offer a fresh perspective which "by-gone" individuals simply can't deliver.

Interesting post! But, I disagree, if for no other reason than because Hedi is at YSL, which (like Eudora Welty speaking of Faulkner) must be like "living next door to a mountain." Obviously, that raises the stakes for what he does, and about surprising innovation... because YSL himself managed somehow to do all the things you describe above as being impossible for nearly three decades.

In any case, your point is quite apt, and also many times we've all discussed the limitations inherent in menswear that are not there for womenswear (where YSL himself made his reputation). That being said, I still want... expect... demand?... to see more than this. For $5500, I want more than just a "cool" jacket.

 

[sq4you]



Interesting post! But, I disagree, if for no other reason than because Hedi is at YSL, which (like Eudora Welty speaking of Faulkner) must be like "living next door to a mountain." Obviously, that raises the stakes for what he does, and about surprising innovation... because YSL himself managed somehow to do all the things you describe above as being impossible for nearly three decades.
In any case, your point is quite apt, and also many times we've all discussed the limitations inherent in menswear that are not there for womenswear (where YSL himself made his reputation). That being said, I still want... expect... demand?... to see more than this. For $5500, I want more than just a "cool" jacket.

I wouldn't say it's impossible. It's just EXTREMELY difficult. I think Alexander McQueen is probably one who had this genius....unfortunately the line between genius and insanity is very fine and often leads to self-destructive behaviour (musicians seem to suffer from this a lot).

With regards to the pricing and the $5k+ leather jackets....this is not Hedi's fault. This is likely YSLs financial department suffering from the same mental disorder that currently afflicts Givenchy.
Hype is the primary catalyst of financial fuel and YSL just fired up 8 cylinders.

But yes, I wouldnt pay that much for any of those jackets. Id rather get a CCP or buy an og hedi piece from one of those rip off guys on ebay.

 

[rach2jlc]



With regards to the pricing and the $5k+ leather jackets....this is not Hedi's fault. This is likely YSLs financial department suffering from the same mental disorder that currently afflicts Givenchy.

It seems to afflict every brand from watchmakers to parfumeries to bagmakers. I don't think there is a single one out there whose prices today aren't drastically higher than just a few years ago, with little to no changes in quality of manufacture.

Anyway, we're living in a pretty interesting time, fashion wise... I'm curious how in twenty years we'll look back on all the explosion and all the hype. I've said it many times, but if you look at the state of things in 1995 vs. today, it's like the dark ages vs. some cybernetic technofuture. Where things will go from here (or, more likely, what sort of more moderate baseline they'll settle down to) is going to be fascinating.

 

[AriGold]

I think it's just inflation

Print more monay benanke :foo:

 

[sq4you]

Probably less inflation and more just a recovery from the bush recession.