S.E.H Kelly

[RozenKristal]

It fits true to size ...

... but with regards to the shoulder measurement, it's always best to compare that to other coats of the same style.

For instance, the shoulder measurement on a jacket with a set-in shoulder in a tailored style — where the look is smarter and so the armhole starts at a higher point — will be lower than for a jacket with a more casual or shirt-style set-in shoulder (such as our work jacket or indeed our shirts).

I'm a 39-40 chest, and have a tailored jacket with a shoulder of 17, while my shirts are all about 18.5.

The topcoat is cut as a tailored jacket, but with a bit more space. So the shoulder on the size M is 17.5. It has about half an inch more room across the shoulder than our SB jacket, which is the closest comparison.

If you haven't already, for peace of mind, it might be worth comparing the measurements to a close comparison in your wardrobe, rather than (if you are doing this and apologies if you are not) other coats of ours, none of which have the same style of construction in the shoulder.

In short, it is true to size! But if you want it as a more fully fledged over-everything overcoat, with more space all round, then — sorry to state the obvious! — go up a size.

Would it be a safe assumption that I can measure a suit jacket as well? It would be comparable in term of construction and how they both meant to be worn?
Edit: I just did, look like I need an M due to me doing pull up alot ._.

 

[sehkelly]

Would it be a safe assumption that I can measure a suit jacket as well? It would be comparable in term of construction and how they both meant to be worn?
Edit: I just did, look like I need an M due to me doing pull up alot ._.

Exactly, yes — a good like-for-like comparison, I expect.

 

[sehkelly]

Here — some more photographs of the new topcoats.

 

[sehkelly]

There's another overcoat inching towards the finish line — the Chesterfield.

It is largely unchanged from its debut about three years ago, at least on the face of it. But we've made quite a few efforts to improve it, cosmetically and in terms of fit, and I'm excited for its completion in a week or two.

The cloth is the same exceptional heavy merino hopsack used last time around. It's from a little weaving operation in West Yorkshire. I love hopsacks at the worst of times — and in terms of overcoating this really is creme de la creme (as we say here in London). It drapes quite like nothing else we use.

 

[KeeperEUSC]

Any photos of a topcoat in action yet? Want to see it layered on top of something to get a reference for just how thick it is.

Paul, can't speak highly enough about the cavalry twill work trousers. Need to go back for seconds but waiting to see how much they stretch as I think I'm already at the skinny end of large.

 

[sehkelly]

Any photos of a topcoat in action yet? Want to see it layered on top of something to get a reference for just how thick it is.

Paul, can't speak highly enough about the cavalry twill work trousers. Need to go back for seconds but waiting to see how much they stretch as I think I'm already at the skinny end of large.

Glad you like 'em, sir.

We have a few other cavalry twill trousers upcoming later in the month.

And we hope to photograph the topcoat ourselves quite soon, too. That and the new, longer Chesterfield, the hunting jacket in wool, and the shawl cardigan (which has been beefed up a bit from last year).

 

[sehkelly]

A few recent snaps of newly made items — starting with the letter Beige.

The shirt is made the cotton-linen-wool-silk-cotton-silk-wool-linen from Scotland, which is proving awfully nice to wear through "summer" here in London, and the polo, which in appearance nigh-identical to those that went before, is nevertheless slightly shorter than previous years, trimmer in the body, and with 0.5cm taken off the height of its collar stand (not to mention dozens of hours sweating the small stuff before arriving at these decisions).

 

[PacoPico]

Glad you like 'em, sir.

We have a few other cavalry twill trousers upcoming later in the month.

And we hope to photograph the topcoat ourselves quite soon, too. That and the new, longer Chesterfield, the hunting jacket in wool, and the shawl cardigan (which has been beefed up a bit from last year).

That new polo looks very nice and the changes in sizing sound good to me.

Will the upcoming cavalry twill trousers be the work variety again or some other cut? Just curious because I’ve been watching to see what fabrics the dress trousers return in this year. Thanks.

 

[sehkelly]

Will the upcoming cavalry twill trousers be the work variety again or some other cut? Just curious because I’ve been watching to see what fabrics the dress trousers return in this year. Thanks.

The dress trousers.

We've made a few changes to them again, bringing the twin pleats at front closer together and honing the shape in the leg. We've made them in stone / beige and I guess you'd call it olive green (a muted military sort of shade).

And, later in the year, the dress trousers will also appear in the speckled merino flannel ("motley flannel") we've used the past few years, only in new colours.

 

[sehkelly]

That new polo looks very nice and the changes in sizing sound good to me.

And yes — we never stop trying to hone the fit and bring everything "into line" in terms of sizing.

It is one of the most testing things to do, in my experience, but from the perspective of the consumer, one of the things that most understandably elicits wonder at "why can't they get the sizing right from one piece to the next" (including myself when I was on the other side of the counter).

We have so many different styles, different materials, and different types of construction — not to mention the utterly different way in which a woven garment and a knitted garment come into the world.

So we are always fighting to standardise sizing and fit, and to make sense of it all (should the topcoat fit more slim than the Chesterfield and if so how; should the trucker fit the same as the work jacket or is a work jacket supposed to be more relaxed and anyway does a trucker jacket look better if it is "undersized" and so should we build this into the sizing or simply just steer customers when it comes to choosing their size).

A neverending battle!

 

[RozenKristal]

And yes — we never stop trying to hone the fit and bring everything "into line" in terms of sizing.

It is one of the most testing things to do, in my experience, but from the perspective of the consumer, one of the things that most understandably elicits wonder at "why can't they get the sizing right from one piece to the next" (including myself when I was on the other side of the counter).

We have so many different styles, different materials, and different types of construction — not to mention the utterly different way in which a woven garment and a knitted garment come into the world.

So we are always fighting to standardise sizing and fit, and to make sense of it all (should the topcoat fit more slim than the Chesterfield and if so how; should the trucker fit the same as the work jacket or is a work jacket supposed to be more relaxed and anyway does a trucker jacket look better if it is "undersized" and so should we build this into the sizing or simply just steer customers when it comes to choosing their size).

A neverending battle!

Your honing process is what attractive and define your brand. I like it.

 

[icasio]

Your honing process is what attractive and define your brand. I like it.

Couldn't agree more. Not to wax too poetic...but your process is akin to that idea of, "A work of art is never finished, merely abandoned."

You are in a lucky situation where you don't have to abandon the piece because you can continue to refine it with each new run. So why wouldn't you continue to hone it in?

Yes, it's slightly (only slightly) tricky for us customers to dial in the fit when the cut changes BUT all it requires is asking you for guidance. Not a big deal.

And well worth the additional step when the end result is a better fitting garment.

 

[sehkelly]

A few more photographs of the new Chesterfield (which in reference to the kind post above, despite being absent from our line-up for three years, was certainly never abandoned).

 

[RozenKristal]

it looks sorta like hopsack?

 

[sehkelly]

it looks sorta like hopsack?

It is indeed a hopsack.

It is woven with a two-ply yarn, which adds extra twist / bobbliness to its appearance.

The two-ply yarn contributes to superior technical attributes, including high tensile strength and enhanced resistance against abrasion. And the wool itself is a high-quality 21-micron merino, which enhances suppleness to its feel.