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happydayz1

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Hi Paul, is the fit of the cotton Balmacaan somewhat true to size, on the slimmer side or more representative of a traditional overcoat with room for layering. Many thanks.
 

sehkelly

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Hi Paul, is the fit of the cotton Balmacaan somewhat true to size, on the slimmer side or more representative of a traditional overcoat with room for layering. Many thanks.

It's true to size — cut to accommodate a shirt, sweater, lightweight jacket at most.

For more ambitious layering, it'd be best up a size.

(And it's no different to the tweed versions.)
 

DanielPicktonAllen

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Yep — it is corduroy, and the rest of the jacket is flat high-count cotton (same as the two coats at the top of https://www.sehkelly.com/shop/coats/).
Ahh I see. Not for me then, I’m not a fan of corduroy accent collars. It looks a really lovely design though, well done! Anyway I think I’m best waiting for your new topcoat, which I’m particularly excited about 😊
 

OhBanana

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Thorough as ever, thanks Paul.

I hadn't considered that you'd want two layers for the flaps though it makes obvious sense in hindsight. For some reason I had it in my head that you'd done effectively three layers, two cotton and one viscose. Now that would have really added bulk and seam bulge.

I meant asymmetric more in the sense of how TeraSera structured the buttons on their jacket. A diagonal line from off center bottom to the shoulder area without a reflected set of buttons on the other side. Though I imagine you'd still want a jigger button of some sort to keep the panels together when buttoned up.

Fishing jacket looks great. Always a fan of large amounts of storage to an extent. Dehen does something similar with their utility vest though they don't use a flap.

I flip flop between liking the storm flap on the outside vs the inside. Outside looks nice, inside feels a little nicer because you're insulated from the zipper and I've never had issues with my zippers snagging when the flap's on the inside. I can't imagine you using zippers though for some reason so I'm gonna guess that the flap is covering another set of buttons?

Appreciate that you haven't gone full fishing vest by adding organizational pockets everywhere. Does beg the question in my mind about what makes this a "fishing" jacket in your mind.

Is the hood detachable?

I think the corduroy collar accent is nice. Any thoughts on using it for a cuff lining as well? Imagine the sleeves are lined with the satin?

Are you using a gusset for the arms/shoulders here as well? Or is it just a trick where shoulder overlaps a bit and the sleeve is kind of inset?

Looks like the pockets stand out from the flap a bit, gusseted? Drain holes?

Any way to fasten the hood front pieces together?
 

sehkelly

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Thorough as ever, thanks Paul.

I hadn't considered that you'd want two layers for the flaps though it makes obvious sense in hindsight. For some reason I had it in my head that you'd done effectively three layers, two cotton and one viscose. Now that would have really added bulk and seam bulge.

I meant asymmetric more in the sense of how TeraSera structured the buttons on their jacket. A diagonal line from off center bottom to the shoulder area without a reflected set of buttons on the other side. Though I imagine you'd still want a jigger button of some sort to keep the panels together when buttoned up.

Fishing jacket looks great. Always a fan of large amounts of storage to an extent. Dehen does something similar with their utility vest though they don't use a flap.

I flip flop between liking the storm flap on the outside vs the inside. Outside looks nice, inside feels a little nicer because you're insulated from the zipper and I've never had issues with my zippers snagging when the flap's on the inside. I can't imagine you using zippers though for some reason so I'm gonna guess that the flap is covering another set of buttons?

Appreciate that you haven't gone full fishing vest by adding organizational pockets everywhere. Does beg the question in my mind about what makes this a "fishing" jacket in your mind.

Is the hood detachable?

I think the corduroy collar accent is nice. Any thoughts on using it for a cuff lining as well? Imagine the sleeves are lined with the satin?

Are you using a gusset for the arms/shoulders here as well? Or is it just a trick where shoulder overlaps a bit and the sleeve is kind of inset?

Looks like the pockets stand out from the flap a bit, gusseted? Drain holes?

Any way to fasten the hood front pieces together?

Not sure I catch your drift with the storm flap being inside / outside the jacket — sorry! But we don't ever use zips, no.

It's a fishing jacket in the same way a dinner jacket is for dinner. I think just one of those names whose literal meaning is sanded with time!

It's detachable, yes, the hood — it fastens to the collar stand with buttons (the buttons being on the collar stand).

And yep, the sleeves are lined as usual.

There's no gusset on the sleeves, no, but the armhole is lapped, the same as the shopcoat and work jacket.

The pockets are bellows, built like little boxes, but no, no drain holes!

The hood fastens at the front, yes, the same as the lad at https://tibetan-market.com/archives/1323 (an old jacket of ours which is very similar but in a classic example of time being a spiral staircase, developed independently almost a decade later). The one in the photograph hasn't any buttonholes yet is all.
 
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OhBanana

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Inside just meaning that the overlapping storm flap is behind the fastening element so the exterior is more symmetric with the zipper or buttons being visible smack in the middle.

I just figured a "fishing" jacket would associate with putting wet things in the pockets so drain holes. Not sure how many you'd need though to properly cover a wraparound pocket. They also tend to let dirt and dust in as much as I've found them to aid in the drainage of liquid.

I don't know what it is but the buttons look absolutely enormous on that older jacket. I'm somehow unsurprised that the inside pouch is an absolute bucket.

I'm always amused whenever I see jackets with the little cap extension. I've always had to wear a cap with a proper bill to actually keep any rain or snow off my face.
 

sehkelly

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I'm always amused whenever I see jackets with the little cap extension. I've always had to wear a cap with a proper bill to actually keep any rain or snow off my face.

I've always found them rather jolly, but we've not done them much of late.

The peak there was cut back the year after, then again, and then disappeared completely. There's a bit of shape in the front of the hood now that serves a similar purpose.
 

happydayz1

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Sorry, one more question Paul, if I may. Are there any plans to produce the cotton Balmacaan in navy or similar, or is the current offering exhaustive? Thank you
 

ariahokas

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Hey all! I've lurked on this forum long enough, this is my debut!

I have a question: I'm going to take in the waist of my size L Slim Trousers, a medium would have been the right choice. Have any of you ever done this? I'm worried about preserving the mini-fishtail in the back. Any pointers would be 👌
 

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