Rogue Territory: Handmade Denim Goods

[breck81]



So I have been wearing a size 29 14.5 oz Sk for almost two months now and it's waist is now about 16.75 inches, it fits loosely up top so that I have to wear a belt but I could probably get by without it. Because of how the SK/Stanton sizing works for the Stantons to fit on my waist makes the legs too loose (for what I wanted) and for the SK the waist is perfect but a little too tight in the calves and knees. Anyhow I recently purchased the size 29 16.75 oz Stanton because I saw the sizing was a little different (and I really wanted one!). So, the legs are peeeeeerfect! However the top (waist) is very tight and huge struggle to get on, especially with boxers. The waist is currently in at exactly 16 inches. Basically i'd really like some advice on whether I should keep them and they'll stretch enough or I should just throw in the towel…

(note: does stretching half an inch mean on both sides? so [16.5 x 2] or [16 x 2 + .5])

The stretch typically refers to total. So 16 x 2 = 30 plus up to .5" stretch. So 30.5" after wear.

 

[rusticchasm]

i wear a supply jacket in XS perfectly. size up or same for the lined supply?
from the sizing on the website, looks like the XS lined supply is a tad larger? reports are saying that you need to size up though...

 

[breck81]

i wear a supply jacket in XS perfectly. size up or same for the lined supply?
from the sizing on the website, looks like the XS lined supply is a tad larger? reports are saying that you need to size up though...

I am always chasing the chest size 21.5(pit to pit), which in the waxed/wool line is a Large. In the desert wash supply its a medium. In the camel canvas its also a Large. The waxed/ wool does seem a tad bigger than normal Large canvas from the spring. I wanted the tad of extra space since it, unlike the desert wash and camel canvas, would be a shell with additional winter layers. It gets cold out here in western Wyoming, so even with the wool lining, i wanted room for hoodies and flannels underneath. I hope that helps.

 

[Rogue Territory]



So I have been wearing a size 29 14.5 oz Sk for almost two months now and it's waist is now about 16.75 inches, it fits loosely up top so that I have to wear a belt but I could probably get by without it. Because of how the SK/Stanton sizing works for the Stantons to fit on my waist makes the legs too loose (for what I wanted) and for the SK the waist is perfect but a little too tight in the calves and knees. Anyhow I recently purchased the size 29 16.75 oz Stanton because I saw the sizing was a little different (and I really wanted one!). So, the legs are peeeeeerfect! However the top (waist) is very tight and huge struggle to get on, especially with boxers. The waist is currently in at exactly 16 inches. Basically i'd really like some advice on whether I should keep them and they'll stretch enough or I should just throw in the towel…

(note: does stretching half an inch mean on both sides? so [16.5 x 2] or [16 x 2 + .5])

Sounds like they're right where you want them. I understand the waist maybe a bit uncomfortable at first but if you can button them then you're in the right size. You should expect at least .5" in total for the waistband. [16x2 +.5] since they're tight on you, you may be looking at a little more than .5" also the boxer waistband does take up some room, you may want to wear the boxer waistband above the denim waistband during the break in period. if you stick with them don't forget to join the #rgtslubfaders contest on instagram - winner gets a $250 gift certificate from us. -Karl

 

[Rogue Territory]



i wear a supply jacket in XS perfectly. size up or same for the lined supply?
from the sizing on the website, looks like the XS lined supply is a tad larger? reports are saying that you need to size up though...

Depends on if, like Breck said you're looking to layer underneath it. The waxed canvas will stretch a tad. I wear a M in everything, I could size down to a S in the denim Supply Jackets if I wanted them to be fitted. The Waxed Lined Supply in M feels a little more fitted than my denim supply jackets but I can still wear a tshirt, button down and sweatshirt underneath it. Sure, it feels snug, but its damn warm! So to answer your Q, if you want it fitted and only plan on wearing a tshirt or button down underneath it stick with the XS if you want to layer underneath it jump up to a S. -Karl

 

[davidw25]

Is it possible to have the sleeves shortened on the waxed jackets? Not necessarily thorough you guys, just in general.

 

[applky]

Is it possible to have the sleeves shortened on the waxed jackets? Not necessarily thorough you guys, just in general.

Short answer: probably not. Long answer: yes but only if your tailor is a wizard. They'd have to remove the wrist or take it up from the shoulder, either of which might adversely impact the waxed finish. It would be a very tough operation. I use Stanton Street Tailors, a top NYC outfit, and this is probably the kind of job Pablo, the boss, would turn down because it's too much of a headache.

 

[JilSlander]

Short answer: probably not. Long answer: yes but only if your tailor is a wizard. They'd have to remove the wrist or take it up from the shoulder, either of which might adversely impact the waxed finish. It would be a very tough operation. I use Stanton Street Tailors, a top NYC outfit, and this is probably the kind of job Pablo, the boss, would turn down because it's too much of a headache.

How about the Denim Supply Jackets?

 

[rusticchasm]

Short answer: probably not. Long answer: yes but only if your tailor is a wizard. They'd have to remove the wrist or take it up from the shoulder, either of which might adversely impact the waxed finish. It would be a very tough operation. I use Stanton Street Tailors, a top NYC outfit, and this is probably the kind of job Pablo, the boss, would turn down because it's too much of a headache.

ditto- this would cost you a lot if someone was willing to go through with it

How about the Denim Supply Jackets?

much easier to do but still complicated given how the supply jackets are sewn at the wrist. you could do it but might lost some of the details which makes it not worth it in my mind.
you might be able to shrink a supply jacket instead of hemming it?

 

[Keller]

The new winter waxed jacket is really nice, I would love to see a non waxed and other colors version as well.

 

[breck81]

The new winter waxed jacket is really nice, I would love to see a non waxed and other colors version as well.

A wool lined in other colors? Or just other supply jacket in other colors/fabrics? When i first read your comment i was thinking, "**** they have a dozen versions floating around." So im assuming you mean Wool lined with other canvas colors.

 

[rusticchasm]

do black denim fade to grey?

 

[breck81]



do black denim fade to grey?

So the answer to that has a decent amount of "grey" area. Pun intended.
Most "Black" jeans are composed of a Black dyed warp and white weft. So as the the black fades the white weft comes through. This effect often gives it a "grey" hue to the fades.

Like with regular indigo denim which has a indigo dyed warp and white weft. As they fade it appears to be lighter shades of blue. When in fact it's the white weft becoming more visible. Indigo itself is not the best at holding color on cotton. Henceforth it's proclivity to to fade.

Rogue does offer a black denim that has white weft so it will fade to a "grayish" tint. However their "Stealth" line is black warp and black weft. So it won't fade like a "normal" black denim. It will over time fade a tad but that's mainly due to the cores of the fibers still having a bit of white. So nothing close to the gray you may envision.

And just to throw a little more at ya Rogue and other more out there companies(Naked and Famous Denim comes to mind) like to do a tinted weft. Like for instance a black warp and Indigo weft so as the denim fades the black gives way to indigo weft threads. Makes for cool honey combs and whiskers. There are also brown tinted weft that gives the jeans a "dirty" look to the fades.

I hope that helps. Basically normal Black warp X White weft, "Black" denim will fade to appear gray in the combs and whiskers and stacks.

 

[Inelson]

I've been wearing the 16.75 oz Stanton's and doing the Instagram stuff. I've gotta say it's a lot of fun! If anyone is thinking about getting a pair then go for it! There's an October restock and they're worth it!

 

[applky]

So the answer to that has a decent amount of "grey" area. Pun intended.
Most "Black" jeans are composed of a Black dyed warp and white weft. So as the the black fades the white weft comes through. This effect often gives it a "grey" hue to the fades.

Like with regular indigo denim which has a indigo dyed warp and white weft. As they fade it appears to be lighter shades of blue. When in fact it's the white weft becoming more visible. Indigo itself is not the best at holding color on cotton. Henceforth it's proclivity to to fade.

Rogue does offer a black denim that has white weft so it will fade to a "grayish" tint. However their "Stealth" line is black warp and black weft. So it won't fade like a "normal" black denim. It will over time fade a tad but that's mainly due to the cores of the fibers still having a bit of white. So nothing close to the gray you may envision.

And just to throw a little more at ya Rogue and other more out there companies(Naked and Famous Denim comes to mind) like to do a tinted weft. Like for instance a black warp and Indigo weft so as the denim fades the black gives way to indigo weft threads. Makes for cool honey combs and whiskers. There are also brown tinted weft that gives the jeans a "dirty" look to the fades.

I hope that helps. Basically normal Black warp X White weft, "Black" denim will fade to appear gray in the combs and whiskers and stacks.

Great response. An addendum: it's becoming slightly more common to see black warp dark indigo weft jeans, which fades to a kind of amazing electric blue. RGTs "dark" denim might be of this variety, can't quite tell if it is or not. Regardless, this is also something to look for, and made the whole dark denim thing work for me.