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Ranking Entry Level (Good Quality) Men's Dress Shoe Options

JFWR

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Frequently, friends of mine ask me for my advice on what shoes to buy when they want good quality shoes; however, frequently these same men are on a limited budget, and therefore they are looking for a good deal. Lots of these men are just starting out in their professional life, so they don't have a lot of money to blow on shoes.

This made me wonder: how should we rank the options for the entry level, good quality men's dress shoes?

There are certain brands which at this point, I never recommend whatsoever. These would be the Rockports, Florsheims, J&M, Nunn Bushes, etc, of the world. These are not what I call entry level shoes at all, because they simply do not have the quality to be considered decent shoes. They're made of awful leathers, polyurethene soles, have terrible lasts, have crappy styles, made with synthetic crap that falls apart in a year, can't be resoled, etc. At best, some of the options from say, Rockport, might serve as horrible weather shoes. Other than that, you shouldn't be putting your feet into these shoes. They're not good.

But what about brands like Meermin, Ace Marks, Thursday Boots, etc? What should we rank them relative to say, Allen Edmonds?

By good quality, I mean satisfying these basic requirements:

1. Non-cemented construction.

2. Real leather soles or rubber soles like Dainite or comparable.

3. Leather lining (at least partial).

4. Full grain leather uppers, not corrected grain/polished cobbler/technohorse.

5. Can be bought regularly (even if on sale) in the $200.00-300.00 range.

Given Allen Edmonds are usually on sale for around 199-240, I generally still recommend Allen Edmonds especially as they have tons of retail stores around the US (where my friends are chiefly located). You also have a wide option of sizes and styles from that brand. Allen Edmonds is certainly not on par with super high-end shoes like say...Edward Green or Gaziano and Girling, but they are pretty good bang for your buck.

But you know, what about the other options? How would you say they stack up? Are there other brands we should be aware?

EDIT: Think of this thread not as providing just concrete advice for the random gentleman wanting new shoes, but sort of a discussion for how the entry level shoes compare to one another. Like, what would you say is the heirarchy of entry-level shoe options?
 
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Harwid

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I think you need to recommend brands they can try on or easily return. Too much risk otherwise.

So Allen Edmonds on sale or Nordstrom Rack. Allen Edmonds, Ferragamo, Bruno Magli, to Boot NY, Magnanni. Even though the Rack seems to carry cheaper quality shoes than a brand’s normal offerings.

Jeff
 
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JFWR

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I think you need to recommend brands they can try on. Too much risk otherwise.

So Allen Edmonds on sale or Nordstrom Rack. Even though the Rack seems to carry cheaper quality shoes than a brand’s normal offerings.

Jeff

True. A lot of those other shoe brands are strictly online only, though a lot of my friends don't seem to mind that. I basically tell them to go get fitted for their Brannock size and then buy from that. Worst case scenario, they can take it back because that is how these companies operate anyway.
 

manowar

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While I think the cutting-edge deals like Grant Stone's B-grade section or one-off eBay or Poshmark finds are nigh unbeatable, for a beginner it is true that you want a readily-accessible brand that is easily returnable (without incurring substantial losses).

Amazon, Zappos (and 6pm), Nordstrom, etc. are the types of retailers to go to if they carry your brand of choice.

It's been several years since I handled Magnanni's, To Boot NY, Bruno Magli, and the like, but if you can find those or similar at $200 I think that's decent bang for buck.

Allen Edmonds sale shoes are the most obvious choice. Some may not like their aesthetic and will opt for sleeker Italian shoes.

Thursday Boot is almost the standard now for entry-level boots, but it's worth noting that they carry oxfords and derbies. No experience with them, personally.

Dare I say that not all Cole Haan"s are created equal. You might get lucky on those or similar brands at an outlet mall or a Saks Off 5th.

Johnston & Murphy outlets are worth going to, I think. They still carry some welted shoes.

Frye makes some decent things still as well. I have a pair of GYW chukkas that compare favorably to AE's.

Florsheim Imperials are not out of the question, though made in India. They had better be on a good sale.

Meermin is nice for the price, of course, but shipping and returns can be sketchy to and from Spain.

A few more brands that I am familiar with but have no first hand experience with:
J. Fitzpatrick (maybe out of budget)
Ace Marks
Beckett Simonon

Also, you may find that newbie shoe buyers strongly dislike the idea of welted shoes and want something that feels sneaker-like. My dad, for example, insists on wearing his ECCO'S and Anatomica's even though he has numerous Allen Edmond's and a pair of Grant Stone's. He only wears dress shoes on rare occasions and has not worn the welted pairs enough to get past the "plank of wood" stage.

Most folks, I've found, are just not worth trying to convince into welted shoes because it's such a foreign concept.
 

JFWR

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While I think the cutting-edge deals like Grant Stone's B-grade section or one-off eBay or Poshmark finds are nigh unbeatable, for a beginner it is true that you want a readily-accessible brand that is easily returnable (without incurring substantial losses).

Amazon, Zappos (and 6pm), Nordstrom, etc. are the types of retailers to go to if they carry your brand of choice.

It's been several years since I handled Magnanni's, To Boot NY, Bruno Magli, and the like, but if you can find those or similar at $200 I think that's decent bang for buck.

Allen Edmonds sale shoes are the most obvious choice. Some may not like their aesthetic and will opt for sleeker Italian shoes.

Thursday Boot is almost the standard now for entry-level boots, but it's worth noting that they carry oxfords and derbies. No experience with them, personally.

Dare I say that not all Cole Haan"s are created equal. You might get lucky on those or similar brands at an outlet mall or a Saks Off 5th.

Johnston & Murphy outlets are worth going to, I think. They still carry some welted shoes.

Frye makes some decent things still as well. I have a pair of GYW chukkas that compare favorably to AE's.

Florsheim Imperials are not out of the question, though made in India. They had better be on a good sale.

Meermin is nice for the price, of course, but shipping and returns can be sketchy to and from Spain.

A few more brands that I am familiar with but have no first hand experience with:
J. Fitzpatrick (maybe out of budget)
Ace Marks
Beckett Simonon

Also, you may find that newbie shoe buyers strongly dislike the idea of welted shoes and want something that feels sneaker-like. My dad, for example, insists on wearing his ECCO'S and Anatomica's even though he has numerous Allen Edmond's and a pair of Grant Stone's. He only wears dress shoes on rare occasions and has not worn the welted pairs enough to get past the "plank of wood" stage.

Most folks, I've found, are just not worth trying to convince into welted shoes because it's such a foreign concept.

Most people who I recommend shoes for are interested in going for good quality, so welted or at least blake stitched construction is what they are looking for. They basically are coming to me for advice on good shoes, because they notice I wear pretty decent footwear all the time.

I think Grant Stone is definitely worth mentioning on a list of entry level men's shoes. Those seem good. Forgot about them.

Thanks for the other suggestions.

Basically, I want this thread to sort of explore "what are options for men of modest means who may be just entering into the dress shoe space?" Because I meet a good amount of men in the course of my travels who probably want to at least dabble, and I don't like recommending garbage to them, or just say, "Go buy a pair of Allen Edmonds." Admittedly, "Go buy a pair of Allen Edmonds" is actually a really good suggestion for most people, as those are good quality shoes at a very reasonable price, but still: nice to give them some options.

Like, I have never once touched an Ace Mark shoe. I have no idea if they are good or not.
 

gimpwiz

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I like my Beckett Simonon shoes, but it takes at least a couple months from order to delivery, as they make them in batches 'to order' so to speak.

I am not versed enough in shoes to discuss the details of the ones I have. Just wanted to point out that if you want a new pair, you'll need to wait a bit.
 

JFWR

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I like my Beckett Simonon shoes, but it takes at least a couple months from order to delivery, as they make them in batches 'to order' so to speak.

I am not versed enough in shoes to discuss the details of the ones I have. Just wanted to point out that if you want a new pair, you'll need to wait a bit.

How would you compare them to comparably priced shoes?
 

gimpwiz

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Do you want the honest truth or a sweet lie?

Okay, honest truth: no idea. The two pairs I have bought for them are literally the only decent shoes I've owned. I now know where to look, thanks to this forum and others, but 4 years ago all I knew was that any shoe that appeared of reasonable quality was too 'spensive. Like twice a year someone would drag me to a mall and a nice looking shoe was twice the price I paid for the Beckett Simonon shoes.

So frankly I'm the wrong person to ask. Maybe in the future I'll correct this, or maybe the rarity of my wearing anything resembling nice shoes means that owning two pairs is not a problem to be corrected. I apologize, I'm not much of a shoe guy.

If it helps our understanding, I'm happy to take very detailed photos of anything you'd like to see. Macro lens and flash, if'n you'd like ;) that might answer some technical questions not obvious online. Or we could just ask the folks who make 'em. But subjectively, they're... fine? I can wear them all day and be perfectly happy. Dress shoes I've worn in the past were not nearly as nice looking nor comfortable so it's a win for me.
 

lemmywinks

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I think on the lower end a lot of Spanish shoes are hard to beat. I know they may not be the most accessible depending on where you are, but those are my two cents.
 

7_rocket

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I've booked marked this list. For me, it's not about having disposable income but I like to be financially responsible (I know I'm in the wrong place lol)

I'm slowly going through this list. I have no need for formal shoes/clothing at the moment because I WFH. But when I do this list is good. I like the look of cobbler union when on sale.

My issue is always getting the right fit since I live in Canada. So I have to deal with shipping and the headache of if shoes don't fit right

 

manowar

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@lemmywinks Have heard good things about Carlos Santos and TLB Mallorca. Admittedly for someone based in the US, trying out foreign makers just isn't the right move I think. Also, I don't know anybody at all who would look at $300-400 as low end.

I've seen Trenton & Heath tear down a pair of Beckett Simonon shoes. I think the conclusion was kind of "meh" but worth the price you pay. Speaking of Trenton & Heath, they did a couple of relevant videos on the subject (which are a little rambly, but entertaining).

BEST DRESS SHOE BRANDS - $200-$500
Video 1 & Video 2
 

emptym

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I'm not sure I could rank them, but in addition to some mentioned, above (AE, Spanish brands...), here's some good values in shoes:

http://bexley.com. -- French company that used to be very popular here. Most are Blake stitched, I think.

http://shipton.com/ -- Rebranded shoes from known English makers like C&J and PS, often on sale.

https://www.herringshoes.co.uk/. -- Same as Shipton.

Loake and Sander shoes are good too and generally the least expensive of English makers. I've recommended their shoes and others from Pediwear, but sadly it seems Pediwear has closed.

Generally, though, I recommend that people new to nice shoes go for something used from Alden on eBay.
 

JFWR

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Great mentions of brands from all of you folks.

Does anyone have any specific comparisons they could make? Any that you might say are better than their price would suggest? Or conversely, worse than their price warrants?
 

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