Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[aristoi bcn]

btw, this Saturday I will have the first fitting for a blue Fresco Mock Leno jacket. We will see how it turns out. After four jackets with roughly the same measurements (10cms lapels and normal shoulders, standard style for Napoli), the last two jackets turned out with 8 cms lapels and extended shoulders. The visual effect is completely different and "less neapolitan" so to say, but according to the Master, it favours my physique better.

 

[lordsuperb]

btw, this Saturday I will have the first fitting for a blue Fresco Mock Leno jacket. We will see how it turns out. After four jackets with roughly the same measurements (10cms lapels and normal shoulders, standard style for Napoli), the last two jackets turned out with 8 cms lapels and extended shoulders. The visual effect is completely different and "less neapolitan" so to say, but according to the Master, it favours my physique better.

MOARRR Lapel, please.

 

[lordsuperb]

Bespoke projects are being put on hold for vacation days in Europe. Any rec’s?

 

[aristoi bcn]

Bespoke projects are being put on hold for vacation days in Europe. Any rec’s?

tailors or tissues?

 

[lordsuperb]

tailors or tissues?

Haha, countries and cities.

 

[aristoi bcn]

Haha, countries and cities.

Portugal and the Baltic Republics are quite popular among my friends lately. Puglia and Menorca island for a summery retreat, too.

 

[lordsuperb]

Portugal and the Baltic Republics are quite popular among my friends lately. Puglia and Menorca island for a summery retreat, too.

Ahhh puglia and Croatia have been on my list for a while. I did Barcelona and costa del sol in 2017. I still need to see San Sebastián and Portugal. Maybe it’s time to head back to spain.

 

[aristoi bcn]

In San Sebastián you can have the best pintxos (tapas in Basque region) of Spain. Two days more than enough. Portugal needs more than that and you shouldn't miss the Algarve. Cascais needs to be visited, too.

 

[Mr. Six]

I was in Andalusia in November, mostly Granada and Cordoba. I should have scheduled more time in Granada, less in Cordoba. Granada seemed like a great city that I didn't get to explore enough. But I did go to the Alhambra, once at night on an unguided tour and once during the day on a guided tour. Highly recommended. The Alhambra is, unsurprisingly, amazing. Seeing it twice was the right way to go.

 

[lordsuperb]

I was in Andalusia in November, mostly Granada and Cordoba. I should have scheduled more time in Granada, less in Cordoba. Granada seemed like a great city that I didn't get to explore enough. But I did go to the Alhambra, once at night on an unguided tour and once during the day on a guided tour. Highly recommended. The Alhambra is, unsurprisingly, amazing. Seeing it twice was the right way to go.

I did the walking tour in September and some idiot had a double breasted suit on when it was 93 degrees . The things we do for meanswear. Beautiful scenery.

 

[lordsuperb]

Just finished my first fitting of the Minnis flannel puppytooth with Sartoria Tofani at their NYC trunk show. So far so good. Because of the fabric’s informality, Davide suggested that we switch from flapped to patch pockets. He also suggested a touch of padding for the shoulders. After about 10+ Jacket commissions without any padding, this will be a first so we’ll see how it goes.

4x2 with patch pockets or 6x2 with single flap.

 

[circumspice]

For me, it is not only a question of where to go, but when. I want to walk around in weather 75F or cooler. When are you thinking of taking time?

 

[dalevy]

@lordsuperb if you go to San Sebastián do not skip over Bilbao. I just went to the museum, but it seems like a place to explore a bit. Also recommend just exploring outside of San Sebastián with a local guide to drive you around to some other towns. Perhaps venture to Bayonne.

 

[Stugotes]

Isn't there a traveling thread? I was looking forward to a lot of cool posts on bespoke stuff.

 

[bourbonbasted]

I'm going out on a bit of limb with my next Steed commission. While I love teh drape, the realities of Atlanta summers make heavily canvassed and structured garments near impractical for 6 months out of the year. Accordingly, I'm pushing the limits with a "summer" cut. I'm funding Derek's Fresco puppytooth and going 3-roll-2, triple patch pocket, double vent, notch lapel, buggy-lined (lining only at the shoulders and sleeves) with taped seams, and a completely natural shoulder. I'm also reverting to the more classic (and louche) Anderson & Sheppard look, opting for a fish cut (darted under the arm, halfway to the arm scye) to give the appearance of a sack jacket.

Matthew offered a fully unstructured option, but I feel like it's foolish to ask for an unstructured jacket from an English tailor. Furthermore, that seems a bit silly when paying Savile Row money. After talking to some folks (shout-out to Vox) about the above configuration, I hope it will yield a more casual, airy jacket that also doesn't look like an English jacket doing its best impression of an Italian. Time will tell.