Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[L.deJong]

No Neapolitan in the top 5 but it’s still y’all’s favorite style of tailoring? 😆

Big props to the man @Crispyj for doing God’s work out here. We all need to feel a little less depraved 🥲

Hahah, indeed.

What is even more funny is that most wear a suit only 0-2 times a week (me including) but I keep ordering suits... and I reckon that is true for most of the voters. My new year resolution: wear more suits.

 

[tdang]

Do you ever have moments when you aren’t seeing your tailor in a few weeks? 😂

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If you wanted a purple. Maybe something like that. I don’t know: to me, the fabric is a little bit too much of a kiton/isaia vibe. Something Michael cohen would wear with an isaia pin in the lapel buttonhole. Id have to think about it some more.


But kiton / isaia > Willy wonka

Gotta have something to look forward to 🤭

I don't like that whole Isaia-esque color palette. Too dandified.

 

[tdang]

I have a jacket in the purple glencheck from the Alashan Breeze book and agree that it is very wearable without being too flashy (usual caveat here that I do not work in a conservative field where there might be much narrower conceptions of propriety). Goes with most blues, pinks, and greys quite easily; I’ve worn it with cream trousers once or twice but that is a flashier look that even I thought was a bit too much.
The best purple I’ve seen for Fall/Winter jackets was in the recently replaced Standeven Everest book (100% cashmere, 10.5 ounces): a great dark purple shade that I think would be quite easy to pair similarly to the points above, particularly if you went with grey trousers. I might try to track some down, but I think it’s been dropped from the current book, so it might be a bit trickier to get.

Encouraging to hear. The purple jacket is starting to appeal to me because it is a garment that is obviously not business-y but can create a number of nuanced looks for very different social situations.

I can imagine it being an interesting daytime outfit with pink shirt and a tie in the navy/ grey family, but can also look very sharp with a black crewneck and charcoal trousers in the evening.

 

[JohnMRobie]

For overcoats, do they have a canvas? If so, I'm assuming full canvas is better.

What kind of sketchy f*cking maker are you ordering from that you’re worried about them not using canvas? If you’re that worried about it that’s probably a red flag that you shouldn’t use the maker.

As people said your solution won’t solve your question either. Unlined =/= unfinished. It isn’t like there will be exposed canvas for you to see and find out about.

There are much easier ways to find out if a jacket is canvassed. It’s also not the shortcut that the sketchy bespoke houses would take anyways.

 

[hitsuji]

For overcoats, do they have a canvas? If so, I'm assuming full canvas is better.

Yes they can be canvassed like a jacket will be. Yes full canvas is always better. I am keen to understand how much this guy is charging... if a deal is too good to be true then it's usually too good to be true.

Full canvas =/= quality. You can have a half canvas jacket/coat made better than one that is fully canvassed

What kind of sketchy f*cking maker are you ordering from that you’re worried about them not using canvas? If you’re that worried about it that’s probably a red flag that you shouldn’t use the maker.

As people said your solution won’t solve your question either. Unlined =/= unfinished. It isn’t like there will be exposed canvas for you to see and find out about.

There are much easier ways to find out if a jacket is canvassed. It’s also not the shortcut that the sketchy bespoke houses would take anyways.

+1. I generally pinch just under the bottom button and try to feel for a middle layer if its fully canvassed (not sure if its accurate) but only use it for any charity shop findings.. If you can't trust a maker is canvassing a coat just leave them be

 

[audax333]

Nowadays there are machines which pick stitch the canvas of a lapel fully automatically, see https://www.strobel.biz/en/produkte/ka-ed/
It's not necessarily a sign of great quality and work done by hand.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Nowadays there are machines which pick stitch the canvas of a lapel fully automatically, see https://www.strobel.biz/en/produkte/ka-ed/

Easy to tell the difference between machine made pick stitching and handmade pick stitching.

Strobel machine looks like someone took a nail gun to your lapel and is perfectly evenly spaced.

 

[audax333]

Easy to tell the difference between machine made pick stitching and handmade pick stitching.

Strobel machine looks like someone took a nail gun to your lapel and is perfectly evenly spaced.

Of course, but it still rolls decently I hope and it passes the pinch-test.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Of course, but it still rolls decently I hope and it passes the pinch-test.

Pick stitching =/= hand padding

Also easy enough to find out if a lapel is hand or machine padded. Just flip the lapel over.

 

[audax333]

Oh, that's indeed pretty visible. I only researched these machines because I've inherited a blindsitch machine. The only jacket I own which is machine finished, however is a Tweed which hides the stitches well. Thanks for the example!

 

[JohnMRobie]

That jacket is hand padded. The machine padded lapel won’t have any of those dimples.

Re: pick stitching that you mentioned. Here’s machine which looks like a nail gun did it

Here’s handmade pick stitching

 

[ppk]

As I posted in the Unfunded Liabilities thread, I'm commissioning a polo coat for next winter.

I'm going to be in London next week and I have time to visit tailors. Any thoughts on who I should see for said coat? Thanks.

 

[Despos]

The conversation is confusing two machines and what they are used for.
Strobel does the pad stitching which sews the layer of canvas to the cloth on the interior of the lapel.
AMF machine does the top stitch, or pic stitch along the external edges on the jacket fronts and around the patch pocket or pocket flaps.

 

[JohnMRobie]

As I posted in the Unfunded Liabilities thread, I'm commissioning a polo coat for next winter.

I'm going to be in London next week and I have time to visit tailors. Any thoughts on who I should see for said coat? Thanks.

I think Vox’s and Edwin’s from steed look good.

 

[Crispyj]

As I posted in the Unfunded Liabilities thread, I'm commissioning a polo coat for next winter.

I'm going to be in London next week and I have time to visit tailors. Any thoughts on who I should see for said coat? Thanks.