Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[jonathanS]

I like this cloth, but it's not the best choice for a field jacket, in my opinion.

On a classic sport coat it looks great.

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Interesting to hear the category of gun clubs called “micro patterns” - or houndstooth for that matter. I don’t think I’d agree with lumping them into that category. Certainly there are micro gunclubs. I’ve got a jacket in it. But the category as a whole and the examples you posted wouldn’t qualify as such.

Ahhh yes, I think that looks fine. Disregard above, although I maintain that the larger pattern looks better on larger frames. It’s a balance of fabric pattern / body.

Perhaps micro pattern wasn’t the best description. But it’s a smaller scale vs larger patterns. But you are correct they wouldn’t be micro patterns (which visually wear very close to solids). There’s one LL gunclub (I think called the Alden gunclub) which I just find extremely boring & am not a fan of. I’m sure the fabric itself is great.

I guess it still doesn’t get me excited like others. But I’ve often concluded that browns don’t get me as excited either. I’m more drawn to blues & shades of blue. As they say in Italian, “Sogniamo nei colori presi in prestito dal mare" - we dream in colors borrowed from the sea.

Not a fan (not my aesthetic):

 

[The Chai]

But loafers are lower than oxfords, so I'm not yet confident enough to know the exact length I want with a different style of shoe on!

Full break or go home!

But fair enough. These days I wear oxfords like once a year, for the big meetings. I go for chelseas, loafers or opera pumps...there is no in between!

 

[gimpwiz]

I asked for half break. I just cannot get into pumps, that's just me. I really like oxfords though. Won an auction for a pair of patent oxfords from Spoo; Peale-branded BB. They seem good but haven't had an outing yet. I am not sure if I like them more than well shined black oxfords, but Andy insisted they're right so I'll give em a whirl

 

[gimpwiz]

Ahhh yes, I think that looks fine. Disregard above, although I maintain that the larger pattern looks better on larger frames. It’s a balance of fabric pattern / body.

Perhaps micro pattern wasn’t the best description. But it’s a smaller scale vs larger patterns. But you are correct they wouldn’t be micro patterns (which visually wear very close to solids). There’s one LL gunclub (I think called the Alden gunclub) which I just find extremely boring & am not a fan of. I’m sure the fabric itself is great.

I guess it still doesn’t get me excited like others. But I’ve often concluded that browns don’t get me as excited either. I’m more drawn to blues & shades of blue. As they say in Italian, “Sogniamo nei colori presi in prestito dal mare" - we dream in colors borrowed from the sea.

Sooooo blue gun club?

 

[Marshak]

Spoiler: On trolling behavior by some posters. Spoiler so people not interested can skip it.

I am used to trolls on other social media (tens of thousands of followers). The cycle is always the same. 1) aggressive commenting without substance, 2) doubling down, especially if somebody says the person is not interested in said comments; 3) playing the victim after being called out; 4) distorting whatever meager point they might have; 5) distorting even more the interlocutor's points; 6) claiming they represent a large group of people to get noticed; 7) never letting go; 8) always wanting to have the last word. They get especially happy if somebody (anybody) jumps onto their bandwagon. They like to dish out but can't take it. I tend not to block these types of trolls because they are usually harmless. A bunch of bravado but never contributing to any substantive discussion.

Hopefully, this will be my last comment on said topic. I appreciate whoever comments with substance and will continue to ignore those who have come to hate my posts with a passion. I wish I could say I learned something from these posters, but I never did. Trolls usually offer nothing and have no intention of engaging honestly in a civilized debate. Oh well..

Like many members, I share @jonathanS point of view on your outfits, but I also regret having been at the origin of a pack effect which is, as @sugarbutch notes, absolutely sterile. The best solution would probably be to use the ghosting option with the Ignore button (just click on the profile of the member). Mutual forgetting is the ferment of peace.

 

[brax]

I asked for half break. I just cannot get into pumps, that's just me. I really like oxfords though. Won an auction for a pair of patent oxfords from Spoo; Peale-branded BB. They seem good but haven't had an outing yet. I am not sure if I like them more than well shined black oxfords, but Andy insisted they're right so I'll give em a whirl

The break shown on your photos looks great. At most, get it a little longer. Just a little.

On the other hand, the BB patent leather slippers that I have seen are awful. BB May carry more than one model so yours may be fine but the ones I have seen are round blobs.

 

[DorianGreen]

Ahhh yes, I think that looks fine. Disregard above, although I maintain that the larger pattern looks better on larger frames. It’s a balance of fabric pattern / body.

Perhaps micro pattern wasn’t the best description. But it’s a smaller scale vs larger patterns. But you are correct they wouldn’t be micro patterns (which visually wear very close to solids). There’s one LL gunclub (I think called the Alden gunclub) which I just find extremely boring & am not a fan of. I’m sure the fabric itself is great.

I guess it still doesn’t get me excited like others. But I’ve often concluded that browns don’t get me as excited either. I’m more drawn to blues & shades of blue. As they say in Italian, “Sogniamo nei colori presi in prestito dal mare" - we dream in colors borrowed from the sea.

Not a fan (not my aesthetic):

View attachment 2053653

View attachment 2053655

I really like the cloths in your pictures. Also the lapels on that jacket is quite my taste.

By the way, I found this beautiful sport coat made by Ciardi for Crompton in a vintage cloth from Lafayette Saltiel. He calls it Gun Club Tweed, but it's not what I intend as such, and what is usually seen under this denomination.

 

[bourbonbasted]

Took my latest Pastena commission out for a spin. LP wool/silk seersucker.

I'm a big fan of how my requested tweaks -- extended shoulder with minimal padding and a more capped expression, lowered gorge, lowered chest pocket, lowered buttoning point -- panned out. Going to get this same silhouette going again on a Zegna CashCo number.

Worth noting, the legs aren't as skinny as they appear. The cloth is fantastic but is so thin it's prone to clinging at the sock. Have to figure out a solve for that.

 

[jonathanS]

I really like the cloths in your pictures. Also the lapels on that jacket is quite my taste.

By the way, I found this beautiful sport coat made by Ciardi for Crompton in a vintage cloth from Lafayette Saltiel. He calls it Gun Club Tweed, but it's not what I intend as such, and what is usually seen under this denomination.

View attachment 2053853

View attachment 2053855

Yes, this sort of gunclub with an overcheck is more my speed (although, I believe technically that’s a houndstooth). But, as I noted above, it’s a similar affect.

Sooooo blue gun club?

Yes, perhaps I’ll have to investigate. Perhaps though, as Dorian mentioned, those gunclubs with an overcheck aren’t normally thought of when referrring to gunclub. Maybe it’s just not a fabric for me and that’s fine.

On the whole, the pattern is smaller than a plaid or windowpane, which I guess is what I was trying to say above. I suppose it’s why I never realized this was technically a gunclub until mentioned above last week.

So I guess, despite my comments, a brown gunclub (with a blue overcheck) is in the works haha

Like many members, I share @jonathanS point of view on your outfits, but I also regret having been at the origin of a pack effect which is, as @sugarbutch notes, absolutely sterile. The best solution would probably be to use the ghosting option with the Ignore button (just click on the profile of the member). Mutual forgetting is the ferment of peace.

Is he still going on? Anyways. No need to convince anyone of us (including me) the stuff is perfect. Do your thing mate. As for his comment, just because you don’t like content of the substance doesn’t mean it doesn’t have substance. But keep telling yourself that.

 

[Marshak]

View attachment 2053909

Took my latest Pastena commission out for a spin. LP wool/silk seersucker.

I'm a big fan of how my requested tweaks -- extended shoulder with minimal padding and a more capped expression, lowered gorge, lowered chest pocket, lowered buttoning point -- panned out. Going to get this same silhouette going again on a Zegna CashCo number.

Worth noting, the legs aren't as skinny as they appear. The cloth is fantastic but is so thin it's prone to clinging at the sock. Have to figure out a solve for that.

Great result for such a thin fabric. Concerning the legs, widening the leg and the calves will solve the problem.

 

[DorianGreen]

Yes, this sort of gunclub with an overcheck is more my speed (although, I believe technically that’s a houndstooth). But, as I noted above, it’s a similar affect.


Yes, perhaps I’ll have to investigate. Perhaps though, as Dorian mentioned, those gunclubs with an overcheck aren’t normally thought of when referrring to gunclub. Maybe it’s just not a fabric for me and that’s fine.

On the whole, the pattern is smaller than a plaid or windowpane, which I guess is what I was trying to say above. I suppose it’s why I never realized this was technically a gunclub until mentioned above last week.

So I guess, despite my comments, a brown gunclub (with a blue overcheck) is in the works haha

View attachment 2053917


Is he still going on? Anyways. No need to convince anyone of us (including me) the stuff is perfect. Do your thing mate. As for his comment, just because you don’t like content of the substance doesn’t mean it doesn’t have substance. But keep telling yourself that.

Another gorgeous cloth in the picture.

 

[jonathanS]

Another gorgeous cloth in the picture.

Yeah, my tailor had to strongly recommend me into it haha. I wanted to do a solid navy but he preferred this one because I wore a solid navy cashmere blazer (standeven) the first time I met & was wearing a navy donegal tweed when ordering this one.

While I’m sure he would’ve made either (thought about both & in hindsight I should’ve negotiated a deal for both), I didn’t need another navy jacket haha.

View attachment 2053909

Took my latest Pastena commission out for a spin. LP wool/silk seersucker.

I'm a big fan of how my requested tweaks -- extended shoulder with minimal padding and a more capped expression, lowered gorge, lowered chest pocket, lowered buttoning point -- panned out. Going to get this same silhouette going again on a Zegna CashCo number.

Worth noting, the legs aren't as skinny as they appear. The cloth is fantastic but is so thin it's prone to clinging at the sock. Have to figure out a solve for that.

You and @Jmr928 need to get together with matching fabrics & tailors haha

 

[bourbonbasted]

You and @Jmr928 need to get together with matching fabrics & tailors haha

 

[JohnMRobie]

View attachment 2053909

Took my latest Pastena commission out for a spin. LP wool/silk seersucker.

I'm a big fan of how my requested tweaks -- extended shoulder with minimal padding and a more capped expression, lowered gorge, lowered chest pocket, lowered buttoning point -- panned out. Going to get this same silhouette going again on a Zegna CashCo number.

Worth noting, the legs aren't as skinny as they appear. The cloth is fantastic but is so thin it's prone to clinging at the sock. Have to figure out a solve for that.

Looks great. I found two solutions on the sock problem - Sockless with my Belgians and then silk socks. As a warning I found a similar issue with certain shirts and the cloth wanting to grab it because I went self lined. I’ve found my soyella and zephirlino both worked better than more textured pure linen and giro inglese.

 

[Sreezy36]

Yeah, my tailor had to strongly recommend me into it haha. I wanted to do a solid navy but he preferred this one because I wore a solid navy cashmere blazer (standeven) the first time I met & was wearing a navy donegal tweed when ordering this one.

While I’m sure he would’ve made either (thought about both & in hindsight I should’ve negotiated a deal for both), I didn’t need another navy jacket haha.



You and @Jmr928 need to get together with matching fabrics & tailors haha

Any pics of your navy cashmere blazer? I recently bought a length of navy cashmere from LP for a blazer project.