Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[brax]

That was a quick turnaround. Looks good. Perhaps I forgot, why’d you end up ordering in Florence vs. New York?

Simple. I was in Florence.

 

[David Reeves]

Did Andy kick your dog or something? Seems super harsh for someone who in my (IRL) experience doesn't deserve the

 

[David Reeves]

Did Andy kick your dog or something? Seems super harsh for someone who in my (IRL) experience doesn't deserve the dragging.

Maybe a bit much granted. My social media is just full of tailoring “influencers”, I could do with getting it back on track with something more “normal”.

 

[David Reeves]

The formula for bespoke is pretty simple.

Bespoke = Craftsmanship*(Money+Autism I have never been tested myself but I can imagine the results.

 

[jonathanS]

on the question of gun club, I was thinking about the conversation above today & I realized the issue I have with gunclub is the relatively small scale of the pattern for my frame.

The gunclub works better (especially without any colored beyond the gunclub) on small / medium frames. Whereas, imo, it doesn’t look as good on people who are larger.

Patterns I gravitate toward:



Patterns that aren’t for me:




The reason I don’t necessarily distinguish between plaid (with overchecks) & gunclub with patterns is because imo they have a very similar affect; I focus more on colors & scale:




The micro patterns (be it houndstooth or gunclub) look best on smaller frames.

 

[JohnMRobie]

on the question of gun club, I was thinking about the conversation above today & I realized the issue I have with gunclub is the relatively small scale of the pattern for my frame.

The gunclub works better (especially without any colored beyond the gunclub) on small / medium frames. Whereas, imo, it doesn’t look as good on people who are larger.

Patterns I gravitate toward:

View attachment 2053279

Patterns that aren’t for me:

View attachment 2053283


The reason I don’t necessarily distinguish between plaid (with overchecks) & gunclub with patterns is because imo they have a very similar affect; I focus more on colors & scale:

View attachment 2053287


The micro patterns (be it houndstooth or gunclub) look best on smaller frames.

Interesting to hear the category of gun clubs called “micro patterns” - or houndstooth for that matter. I don’t think I’d agree with lumping them into that category. Certainly there are micro gunclubs. I’ve got a jacket in it. But the category as a whole and the examples you posted wouldn’t qualify as such.

 

[JHWilliams]

Any you can spare???

Unfortunately they only had one length.

 

[gimpwiz]

Went to the tailor today, they had my favorite Fox Brothers TD50 in one of the eight or so fox brothers books.

I gotta tell you fellas. That thing really is 480g. I have no idea how I'd wear it in san jose as a sport coat. I asked if they make other coats and apparently the same guy who asked for the fox brothers bunches (before which, they didn't have the books) is making a norfolk jacket. We nerded out about that for a moment. I don't think a norfolk is really for me. I do really like field jackets, and wear them regularly, so I wonder how absurd it would be to get a field jacket made out of this. I'll think on it for a few months.

 

[gimpwiz]

Okay, so the dinner suit is coming along. I told them back in June "no hurry" but my next event where I can wear it got moved up like 3 weeks sooner than I thought so now I'm like "okay, maybe hurry a little?" We'll see if we can get it in time, otherwise they're gonna tailor a jacket I got off ebay and I already have every other piece assembled.

Anyways, took photos this time around. This is my 4th commission with Spoon (one 3-piece suit, another 3-piece suit, trousers and a sport coat, and now this 3-piece dinner suit.)

Photos below. I apologize in advance for poor lighting, poor anonymity-editing, and my shoes being untied because I didn't wanna deal with it taking them on and off a half dozen times

Adjustments:

1. Trousers to rise an inch higher, and fall a half inch lower at the hem. Otherwise, big fan of the relative fullness (compared to my previous commissions, which I love but slim isn't really it for black tie, for me.) Pleat is currently fully open, will look proper later; doing a single forward pleat. Will have the standard buttons for suspenders, vertical pockets behind the silk stripes, no back pockets, no belt loops, no side adjusters, etc. They are not cuffed, the basting at the bottom is not indicative of cuffs.

2. The waistcoat is obviously muslin and has a lot more work to go. We will be doing another fitting for it before cutting the H&S fabric. It's a 4x2 DB and it'll be cut lower and with a more pronounced U versus V. I decided I prefer the flat bottom and I suspect they just don't cut very many flat-bottom 4x2 dinner-jacket DB vests. Or maybe just they were in a bit of a hurry. For my other vests the first fitting was the already-cut and basted wool. I'm happy for it to take the time it takes to be great, just a bit surprised today.

3. The jacket! A lot of good here. Love the lapel size. Love the fabric. Thanks everyone for convincing me to use the Holland & Sherry 9722019. We're going to take the waist in a little especially from the back, we're going to make the back about an inch longer, front about a half inch longer. (I know the poor lighting doesn't show where the jacket ends versus the lower half of the body very well.) The buttoning point is going to be lowered a bit, maybe 3/4 of an inch (and it'll be a link front, so its shape will be a bit different when buttoned than currently shown pinned.) Obviously once all is good the quarters will be shaped properly. The sleeves felt decent, but I might want them just the smallest bit shorter, though I'm unsure about it. The back of the arm (not pictured) is going to be slimmed a fair bit at the upper arm area as it's far too full there.

Overall this first fitting was different from my other first fittings in a few ways: one, I know way more about what to look for and our discussions are both more productive but also more specific if not a little nit-picky; two, I am guessing here: I think they were in a bit of a hurry -- their business really suffered during covid and has come roaring back so I think when I told them "no hurry" I got continually put at the back of the line after everyone who needed a suit ASAP for a wedding or whatnot, and when I emailed them to ask whatup they might have had an "oh ****" moment; and three, again I am guessing here: I think they were more hesitant to cut the much more expensive H&S fabric than the ones we did before, given that we were doing a significantly different fit from previous commissions (much more full-cut), hence more use of muslin and so on.

Anyways, they have never let me down yet so I look forward to what we're gonna get!

PS: Walked over to the Alden store afterwards. LHS just doesn't fit me. Very sad. What I wanted they did not have in stock. Also sad. Great people working there, guy knew everything.

 

[bernoulli]

You aren't calling balls and strikes. You're flogging a dead horse. This may scratch some psychological itch for you, but it's tiresome and repetitive for everyone else reading the thread. Is there anyone here who hasn't made up their mind about Bernoulli's stylistic choices?

Spoiler: On trolling behavior by some posters. Spoiler so people not interested can skip it.

I am used to trolls on other social media (tens of thousands of followers). The cycle is always the same. 1) aggressive commenting without substance, 2) doubling down, especially if somebody says the person is not interested in said comments; 3) playing the victim after being called out; 4) distorting whatever meager point they might have; 5) distorting even more the interlocutor's points; 6) claiming they represent a large group of people to get noticed; 7) never letting go; 8) always wanting to have the last word. They get especially happy if somebody (anybody) jumps onto their bandwagon. They like to dish out but can't take it. I tend not to block these types of trolls because they are usually harmless. A bunch of bravado but never contributing to any substantive discussion.

Hopefully, this will be my last comment on said topic. I appreciate whoever comments with substance and will continue to ignore those who have come to hate my posts with a passion. I wish I could say I learned something from these posters, but I never did. Trolls usually offer nothing and have no intention of engaging honestly in a civilized debate. Oh well..

 

[DorianGreen]

Went to the tailor today, they had my favorite Fox Brothers TD50 in one of the eight or so fox brothers books.

I gotta tell you fellas. That thing really is 480g. I have no idea how I'd wear it in san jose as a sport coat. I asked if they make other coats and apparently the same guy who asked for the fox brothers bunches (before which, they didn't have the books) is making a norfolk jacket. We nerded out about that for a moment. I don't think a norfolk is really for me. I do really like field jackets, and wear them regularly, so I wonder how absurd it would be to get a field jacket made out of this. I'll think on it for a few months.

View attachment 2053361

I like this cloth, but it's not the best choice for a field jacket, in my opinion.

On a classic sport coat it looks great.

 

[The Chai]

Okay, so the dinner suit is coming along. I told them back in June "no hurry" but my next event where I can wear it got moved up like 3 weeks sooner than I thought so now I'm like "okay, maybe hurry a little?" We'll see if we can get it in time, otherwise they're gonna tailor a jacket I got off ebay and I already have every other piece assembled.

Anyways, took photos this time around. This is my 4th commission with Spoon (one 3-piece suit, another 3-piece suit, trousers and a sport coat, and now this 3-piece dinner suit.)

Photos below. I apologize in advance for poor lighting, poor anonymity-editing, and my shoes being untied because I didn't wanna deal with it taking them on and off a half dozen times

Adjustments:

1. Trousers to rise an inch higher, and fall a half inch lower at the hem. Otherwise, big fan of the relative fullness (compared to my previous commissions, which I love but slim isn't really it for black tie, for me.) Pleat is currently fully open, will look proper later; doing a single forward pleat. Will have the standard buttons for suspenders, vertical pockets behind the silk stripes, no back pockets, no belt loops, no side adjusters, etc. They are not cuffed, the basting at the bottom is not indicative of cuffs.

View attachment 2053369

2. The waistcoat is obviously muslin and has a lot more work to go. We will be doing another fitting for it before cutting the H&S fabric. It's a 4x2 DB and it'll be cut lower and with a more pronounced U versus V. I decided I prefer the flat bottom and I suspect they just don't cut very many flat-bottom 4x2 dinner-jacket DB vests. Or maybe just they were in a bit of a hurry. For my other vests the first fitting was the already-cut and basted wool. I'm happy for it to take the time it takes to be great, just a bit surprised today.

View attachment 2053375

3. The jacket! A lot of good here. Love the lapel size. Love the fabric. Thanks everyone for convincing me to use the Holland & Sherry 9722019. We're going to take the waist in a little especially from the back, we're going to make the back about an inch longer, front about a half inch longer. (I know the poor lighting doesn't show where the jacket ends versus the lower half of the body very well.) The buttoning point is going to be lowered a bit, maybe 3/4 of an inch (and it'll be a link front, so its shape will be a bit different when buttoned than currently shown pinned.) Obviously once all is good the quarters will be shaped properly. The sleeves felt decent, but I might want them just the smallest bit shorter, though I'm unsure about it. The back of the arm (not pictured) is going to be slimmed a fair bit at the upper arm area as it's far too full there.

View attachment 2053379



Overall this first fitting was different from my other first fittings in a few ways: one, I know way more about what to look for and our discussions are both more productive but also more specific if not a little nit-picky; two, I am guessing here: I think they were in a bit of a hurry -- their business really suffered during covid and has come roaring back so I think when I told them "no hurry" I got continually put at the back of the line after everyone who needed a suit ASAP for a wedding or whatnot, and when I emailed them to ask whatup they might have had an "oh ****" moment; and three, again I am guessing here: I think they were more hesitant to cut the much more expensive H&S fabric than the ones we did before, given that we were doing a significantly different fit from previous commissions (much more full-cut), hence more use of muslin and so on.

Anyways, they have never let me down yet so I look forward to what we're gonna get!

PS: Walked over to the Alden store afterwards. LHS just doesn't fit me. Very sad. What I wanted they did not have in stock. Also sad. Great people working there, guy knew everything.

Re shoes...amateur hour...this is why I always wear loafers for a fitting 🤣

 

[CLH03]

Okay, so the dinner suit is coming along. I told them back in June "no hurry" but my next event where I can wear it got moved up like 3 weeks sooner than I thought so now I'm like "okay, maybe hurry a little?" We'll see if we can get it in time, otherwise they're gonna tailor a jacket I got off ebay and I already have every other piece assembled.

Anyways, took photos this time around. This is my 4th commission with Spoon (one 3-piece suit, another 3-piece suit, trousers and a sport coat, and now this 3-piece dinner suit.)

Photos below. I apologize in advance for poor lighting, poor anonymity-editing, and my shoes being untied because I didn't wanna deal with it taking them on and off a half dozen times

Adjustments:

1. Trousers to rise an inch higher, and fall a half inch lower at the hem. Otherwise, big fan of the relative fullness (compared to my previous commissions, which I love but slim isn't really it for black tie, for me.) Pleat is currently fully open, will look proper later; doing a single forward pleat. Will have the standard buttons for suspenders, vertical pockets behind the silk stripes, no back pockets, no belt loops, no side adjusters, etc. They are not cuffed, the basting at the bottom is not indicative of cuffs.

View attachment 2053369

2. The waistcoat is obviously muslin and has a lot more work to go. We will be doing another fitting for it before cutting the H&S fabric. It's a 4x2 DB and it'll be cut lower and with a more pronounced U versus V. I decided I prefer the flat bottom and I suspect they just don't cut very many flat-bottom 4x2 dinner-jacket DB vests. Or maybe just they were in a bit of a hurry. For my other vests the first fitting was the already-cut and basted wool. I'm happy for it to take the time it takes to be great, just a bit surprised today.

View attachment 2053375

3. The jacket! A lot of good here. Love the lapel size. Love the fabric. Thanks everyone for convincing me to use the Holland & Sherry 9722019. We're going to take the waist in a little especially from the back, we're going to make the back about an inch longer, front about a half inch longer. (I know the poor lighting doesn't show where the jacket ends versus the lower half of the body very well.) The buttoning point is going to be lowered a bit, maybe 3/4 of an inch (and it'll be a link front, so its shape will be a bit different when buttoned than currently shown pinned.) Obviously once all is good the quarters will be shaped properly. The sleeves felt decent, but I might want them just the smallest bit shorter, though I'm unsure about it. The back of the arm (not pictured) is going to be slimmed a fair bit at the upper arm area as it's far too full there.

View attachment 2053379



Overall this first fitting was different from my other first fittings in a few ways: one, I know way more about what to look for and our discussions are both more productive but also more specific if not a little nit-picky; two, I am guessing here: I think they were in a bit of a hurry -- their business really suffered during covid and has come roaring back so I think when I told them "no hurry" I got continually put at the back of the line after everyone who needed a suit ASAP for a wedding or whatnot, and when I emailed them to ask whatup they might have had an "oh ****" moment; and three, again I am guessing here: I think they were more hesitant to cut the much more expensive H&S fabric than the ones we did before, given that we were doing a significantly different fit from previous commissions (much more full-cut), hence more use of muslin and so on.

Anyways, they have never let me down yet so I look forward to what we're gonna get!

PS: Walked over to the Alden store afterwards. LHS just doesn't fit me. Very sad. What I wanted they did not have in stock. Also sad. Great people working there, guy knew everything.

Another LHS victim claimed. I’ve tried every possible size under the sun and have completely given up. Fortunately the tassel does fit me.

 

[gimpwiz]

Re shoes...amateur hour...this is why I always wear loafers for a fitting 🤣

But loafers are lower than oxfords, so I'm not yet confident enough to know the exact length I want with a different style of shoe on!

 

[gimpwiz]

I like this cloth, but it's not the best choice for a field jacket, in my opinion.

On a classic sport coat it looks great.

View attachment 2053415

I guess I'll make it a little mini mission to wear warm sport coats as much as I can this "winter" and if I get enough wear out of them then I'll say it makes sense and go for it. Thanks for the inspiration photo, I won't look that cool but I'll try.