Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[brax]

Doppio Uso completed.
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Looks great. Will Corcos do CMT? It is Corcos, right?

I’m thinking of commissioning this coat with the LL 1kg cashmere. I’ve been told that Liverano won’t use fabric that he didn’t order.

 

[bernoulli]

Thanks for the lengthy critique. However, I would have kept going to WW Chan if I wanted British tailoring. I have no interest in "classic" tailoring per se. And I despise British suit shoulders (on me!). I genuinely appreciate the thoughtful critique, but none of the examples you show is something I am willing to emulate. Nothing wrong with them, but they are not for me. Will I consider the points you raise? Surely, I am refining my style all the time. That is the beauty of the journey. But I don't think I will ever return to British tailoring.

Let me expand on it just a bit. Maybe I am wrong, but I think you are under the assumption that my choices are uninformed. They are not. I have gone through different tailors and different styles until arriving at a partnership I feel comfortable with. Am I looking for improvements? Always!

But I have garments with jetted pockets, straight pockets, slanted pockets, and now extremely slanted pockets. I like it. I am not looking to move toward tradition. Most of what you don't like, such as spalla camicia, gauntlet cuffs, length of the jacket, and other bells and whistles, are conscious choices. They are not borne out of ignorance.

Can I do something more traditional? Yes...Yet I will still make some stylistic choices you may disapprove of. I respect your knowledge and your opinions. I learn from people with different views. But please, as @sugarbutch said, understand what I also want to accomplish. Telling me that I should strive for a British cut is fine, as long as you accept that I will not follow it because I simply don't care much about the style on regular suits.

 

[DorianGreen]

Let me expand on it just a bit. Maybe I am wrong, but I think you are under the assumption that my choices are uninformed. They are not. I have gone through different tailors and different styles until arriving at a partnership I feel comfortable with. Am I looking for improvements? Always!

But I have garments with jetted pockets, straight pockets, slanted pockets, and now extremely slanted pockets. I like it. I am not looking to move toward tradition. Most of what you don't like, such as spalla camicia, gauntlet cuffs, length of the jacket, and other bells and whistles, are conscious choices. They are not borne out of ignorance.

Can I do something more traditional? Yes...Yet I will still make some stylistic choices you may disapprove of. I respect your knowledge and your opinions. I learn from people with different views. But please, as @sugarbutch said, understand what I also want to accomplish. Telling me that I should strive for a British cut is fine, as long as you accept that I will not follow it because I simply don't care much about the style on regular suits.
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I rather like this one.

 

[brax]

Let me expand on it just a bit. Maybe I am wrong, but I think you are under the assumption that my choices are uninformed. They are not. I have gone through different tailors and different styles until arriving at a partnership I feel comfortable with. Am I looking for improvements? Always!

But I have garments with jetted pockets, straight pockets, slanted pockets, and now extremely slanted pockets. I like it. I am not looking to move toward tradition. Most of what you don't like, such as spalla camicia, gauntlet cuffs, length of the jacket, and other bells and whistles, are conscious choices. They are not borne out of ignorance.

Can I do something more traditional? Yes...Yet I will still make some stylistic choices you may disapprove of. I respect your knowledge and your opinions. I learn from people with different views. But please, as @sugarbutch said, understand what I also want to accomplish. Telling me that I should strive for a British cut is fine, as long as you accept that I will not follow it because I simply don't care much about the style on regular suits.
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This jacket looks much better than your prior suit. There are many stylistic choices that I would not make but the execution is much better. In short, the suit looked stylistically aggressive but also poorly executed. This jacket looks stylistically aggressive yet much better executed.

 

[Crispyj]

Looks great. Will Corcos do CMT? It is Corcos, right?

I’m thinking of commissioning this coat with the LL 1kg cashmere. I’ve been told that Liverano won’t use fabric that he didn’t order.

This is Qemal

 

[jonathanS]

Looks great. Will Corcos do CMT? It is Corcos, right?

I’m thinking of commissioning this coat with the LL 1kg cashmere. I’ve been told that Liverano won’t use fabric that he didn’t order.

kotaro didn’t seem fond of doing another coat in that fabric. He told me already did 2. But ymmv. he didnt Seem fond of it, so I straight up asked him if he wanted to do it. he said he preferred not. Doesn’t exactly mean he won’t.

 

[brax]

This is Qemal

Ah, thanks for the clarification. Will Qemal work with CMT?

 

[brax]

kotaro didn’t seem fond of doing another coat in that fabric. He told me already did 2. But ymmv. he didnt Seem fond of it, so I straight up asked him if he wanted to do it. he said he preferred not. Doesn’t exactly mean he won’t.

Yes, I think that I now remember. Didn’t he say something about the weight of the cloth causing pain (discomfort?) in his hands as he pushed the needle through?

 

[Crispyj]

Ah, thanks for the clarification. Will Qemal work with CMT?

Someone gave him an everest cashmere already haha.

 

[brax]

Someone gave him an everest cashmere already haha.

Great. I’ll be in Italy in September. I’ll probably swing by Florence to drop off the LL cashmere with Qemal. Can you please PM me the price that he charged you for your LL cashmere overcoat?

 

[Crispyj]

Great. I’ll be in Italy in September. I’ll probably swing by Florence to drop off the LL cashmere with Qemal. Can you please PM me the price that he charged you for your LL cashmere overcoat?

LL cashmere coat is not mine. Mine is Dugdale overcoat. He's backed up at the moment so having your coat made may take some time. €5500 for standard coat, might be more if he's working with cashmere as only Qemal himself works on the entirety of the coat.

 

[Despos]

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@bernoulli
What is the purpose of the horizontal tab/button on the vest just below the top button?

 

[bernoulli]

@bernoulli
What is the purpose of the horizontal tab/button on the vest just below the top button?

Will ask but none that I can think of. My friend asked me if he could add it, and I said "sure, go ahead, I don't mind trying new things". This is the result.

 

[Despos]

Will ask but none that I can think of. My friend asked me if he could add it, and I said "sure, go ahead, I don't mind trying new things". This is the result.

Vest seems long. Falls so far down over the trouser.
Would put flaps on the lower vest pockets.
Besom pockets don't seem congruent with the styling of the vest or the jacket.
Think this is the same tailor because the background is the same.
Sleeve cuff dimensions don't follow any sense of balance of proportion to other elements.

 

[kal249]

Let me expand on it just a bit. Maybe I am wrong, but I think you are under the assumption that my choices are uninformed. They are not. I have gone through different tailors and different styles until arriving at a partnership I feel comfortable with. Am I looking for improvements? Always!

But I have garments with jetted pockets, straight pockets, slanted pockets, and now extremely slanted pockets. I like it. I am not looking to move toward tradition. Most of what you don't like, such as spalla camicia, gauntlet cuffs, length of the jacket, and other bells and whistles, are conscious choices. They are not borne out of ignorance.

Can I do something more traditional? Yes...Yet I will still make some stylistic choices you may disapprove of. I respect your knowledge and your opinions. I learn from people with different views. But please, as @sugarbutch said, understand what I also want to accomplish. Telling me that I should strive for a British cut is fine, as long as you accept that I will not follow it because I simply don't care much about the style on regular suits.
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Great reply, I really respect that you know what you want and you are confident in your choices, the jacket above looks spot on.