Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[classicalthunde]

Burning money is a part of the therapy, for those who can afford it at least. What I saw and see from Huntsman production let me perplex. If I had 5/6k to spend on a high brand I'd try Liverano and if I was attracted by english tailoring I would go to Steed or Steven Hitchcock which seem better values.

Not to perseverate on Huntsman’s pricing, but Kirby Allison recently a video breaking down the entry prices of the bespoke makers that he uses.

He noted that Huntsman bespoke in London starts at 5,200GBP (~6,500 USD) Whereas Huntsman bespoke in NYC starts at 9,500 USD (~7,500 GBP).

That is quite the swing for places that have comparable labor and real estate costs (if anything, I would actually assume that London is higher for both)

 

[Dane_in_US]

Not to perseverate on Huntsman’s pricing, but Kirby Allison recently a video breaking down the entry prices of the bespoke makers that he uses.

He noted that Huntsman bespoke in London starts at 5,200GBP (~6,500 USD) Whereas Huntsman bespoke in NYC starts at 9,500 USD (~7,500 GBP).

That is quite the swing for places that have comparable labor and real estate costs (if anything, I would actually assume that London is higher for both)

Very interesting. I am going to London in a few weeks and I had already made a mental note to visit the Savile Row store. One of the things I was curious about was the pricing and if there is a difference.

I agree with you that the difference cannot be explained by the underlying cost but rather by the good old supply and demand market forces. Here in the US people might be willing to shell out $10k for the same suit. And of course it’s more convenient to use NY if you’re not going to London often.

 

[classicalthunde]

Very interesting. I am going to London in a few weeks and I had already made a mental note to visit the Savile Row store. One of the things I was curious about was the pricing and if there is a difference.

I agree with you that the difference cannot be explained by the underlying cost but rather by the good old supply and demand market forces. Here in the US people might be willing to shell out $10k for the same suit. And of course it’s more convenient to use NY if you’re not going to London often.

good point, there is a much more competitive market there…

 

[Texasmade]

When Huntsman first setup their NYC shop, everything was priced in GBP. You didn’t pay VAT but had to pay import taxes which was basically the same price as VAT.

When I bought my 2nd suit from them, they mentioned that they’re now a US company with prices in USD so I didn’t have to worry about FX rates. Prices also went up quite a bit when they did that.

 

[Dane_in_US]

When Huntsman first setup their NYC shop, everything was priced in GBP. You didn’t pay VAT but had to pay import taxes which was basically the same price as VAT.

When I bought my 2nd suit from them, they mentioned that they’re now a US company with prices in USD so I didn’t have to worry about FX rates. Prices also went up quite a bit when they did that.

I spoke to them about that too.

If the price difference really is $3k, then that certainly opens up an option where you buy from London and fly over there for fittings, etc.If one can time it with cheap return flights that’s probably not going to be more expensive and you’ll get 3 trips to London out of it too

 

[fllick]

Potentially a novice question. I picked up on a collar gap issue on my 2nd fitting with a bespoke tailoring house and the fitter said he would tighten the collar, given that everything else looked correct to my eye save the collar issue. Would tightening it throw off the balance? Thanks!

 

[BomTrady]

Potentially a novice question. I picked up on a collar gap issue on my 2nd fitting with a bespoke tailoring house and the fitter said he would tighten the collar, given that everything else looked correct to my eye save the collar issue. Would tightening it throw off the balance? Thanks!

I would think, as pure bespoke, when an adjustment is made, the tailor will make all the other necessary adjustments to keep everything in sync, unlike RTW tailoring and MTM where what can be adjusted is limited. In other words, technically, maybe it will throw the balance off but the tailor will make the proper final re-corrections to everything else. And if not, they'll see it in the next fitting and correct it.

 

[jonathanS]

Not to perseverate on Huntsman’s pricing, but Kirby Allison recently a video breaking down the entry prices of the bespoke makers that he uses.

He noted that Huntsman bespoke in London starts at 5,200GBP (~6,500 USD) Whereas Huntsman bespoke in NYC starts at 9,500 USD (~7,500 GBP).

That is quite the swing for places that have comparable labor and real estate costs (if anything, I would actually assume that London is higher for both)

And I thought len was high! I hate these pricing breakdowns because it makes it easier for a tailor to believe they’re underpriced (and maybe they are). If I had money to throw around, I’d go to len over huntsman. But that’s my 2¢, as someone who can’t afford either. Just admires. I had a tailor tell me, when they raised prices, “well len charges X” as a justification for raising suit prices over 1k more. I, probably too bluntly, reminded him that he wasn’t len & len has 30-40 years of experience.

I haven’t been back to commission anything since then.

 

[othertravel]

And I thought len was high! I hate these pricing breakdowns because it makes it easier for a tailor to believe they’re underpriced (and maybe they are). If I had money to throw around, I’d go to len over huntsman. But that’s my 2¢, as someone who can’t afford either. Just admires. I had a tailor tell me, when they raised prices, “well len charges X” as a justification for raising suit prices over 1k more. I, probably too bluntly, reminded him that he wasn’t len & len has 30-40 years of experience.

I haven’t been back to commission anything since then.

Who was the tailor?

 

[othertravel]

And I thought len was high! I hate these pricing breakdowns because it makes it easier for a tailor to believe they’re underpriced (and maybe they are). If I had money to throw around, I’d go to len over huntsman. But that’s my 2¢, as someone who can’t afford either. Just admires. I had a tailor tell me, when they raised prices, “well len charges X” as a justification for raising suit prices over 1k more. I, probably too bluntly, reminded him that he wasn’t len & len has 30-40 years of experience.

I haven’t been back to commission anything since then.

I wonder what Len would say about this. That is, other tailors using him as a metric for pricing. He’s on this forum, isn’t he?

 

[corpseposeur]

This sounds similar to the Whitcombe and Shaftesbury ‘classic bespoke’ offering, with the cutting done in the UK and the ‘making’ done in a small factory they set up in India. I have tried this option and it is both affordable and SR quality (whatever that means!)

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury had SR veteran tailors train their own tailoring shop in India so they directly employ their workers.

I have a Indian-made suit from them in a very nice Fox Air fabric. The make is quite good and feels like it's tailored well and I would say it compares favorably to my London made bespoke suit and a bit better than what I've seen on some London-based tailors on IG in terms of neatness.

I would say they're worth what they charge. I've visited their shop in London and they treated me well and I felt like I had a good level of service. Is the workmanship on the level of Michael Browne or Maurice Sedwell or Chittleborough & Morgan? No, but very few are and they also don't charge as much and W&S visit the US more frequently so that works for me and many on this threat.

I think their house style is not quite what I like these days as I think I am polarized between a more structured military style suit or maybe a drape style. I'm style figure that out.

W&S is a bit middle of the road; not too structured and not too drapey. That's a personal preference thing. I think their senior cutter used to work at Kilgour so I've read on Permanent Style that their house cut is similar. There were some very minor quibbles I have with the jacket, but nothing terrible. I think they'll get sorted out when I catch up with them when they visit New York next.

 

[jiredell]

Frankly, I'm not entirely sure why certain "celebrated" tailors are so celebrated, and I don't quite get the price hike associated with said celebration. Granted, each individual's experience with a tailor is exactly that--individual--but I feel that there are likely a good number of unsung regional tailors whose work is impresseive and comes at a fraction of the cost of the houses that dominate on the internet. That said, it's no doubt that the master tailor is a dying breed. Get your bespoke suits while you still can.

 

[Nytailor]

I have no problem with other "tailors" using me to increase their prices. Frankly, I have more of a problem with them putting themselves in the same quality bracket as me. This may sound boastful, but it's not.

There are "celebrated" tailors who, perhaps, are in this bracket due to copious amounts of advertising money being spent. Not necessarily on the quality of their bespoke work. Good luck to them if they can increase their business. It's up to the individual to do their homework to decide which is a true tailor and which is hype.

 

[jonathanS]

I have no problem with other "tailors" using me to increase their prices. Frankly, I have more of a problem with them putting themselves in the same quality bracket as me. This may sound boastful, but it's not.

This is too true.

Frankly, I'm not entirely sure why certain "celebrated" tailors are so celebrated, and I don't quite get the price hike associated with said celebration. Granted, each individual's experience with a tailor is exactly that--individual--but I feel that there are likely a good number of unsung regional tailors whose work is impresseive and comes at a fraction of the cost of the houses that dominate on the internet. That said, it's no doubt that the master tailor is a dying breed. Get your bespoke suits while you still can.

Have you tried these celebrated tailors vs the regional tailors, and are you reporting back your experience? Or just your feelings?

 

[jiredell]

This is too true.



Have you tried these celebrated tailors vs the regional tailors, and are you reporting back your experience? Or just your feelings?

I’ve only ever tried my tailor, and I think I lucked out. Hence my caveat about the experience being particular to any individual. All I mean is that there must be extremely talented tailors out there that no one’s heard about.