Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[dieworkwear]

I think of C&M as being a descendent of Tommy Nutter and thus has some of that flair. Huntsman by comparison is more conservative "British gentleman"

 

[othertravel]

C&M makes great work if you like that style but they don't travel to the US.

Michael Browne travels to NYC on occassion but his pricing is on another tier.

I could have sworn they put out a notice recently that they're travelling to the U.S.

 

[lordsuperb]

 

[Texasmade]

I could have sworn they put out a notice recently that they're travelling to the U.S.

I think they did put out a notice but that was their first trip in years (not counting Covid restrictions).

 

[classicalthunde]

View attachment 1783393

who dis? can't seem to find and related social media or website

 

[Dane_in_US]

would you mind sharing if you jumped to Huntsman right off of the bat, or if you considered other alternatives and what swayed you to your decision?

Huntsman and C&D is an interesting mix seeing that its the very high end of the price range and the very low end

Good question. Here is the short version of my background. I'm in my 50s and lived and worked in Hong Kong when I was younger and started my career. As a natural thing out there, I went bespoke right out of university and leveraged the same tailor out there for decades since I had an existing relationship with him. After I moved away, it just became an easy way to order suits, shirts and trousers since the patterns were all in place.

In 2017 I lived in California and lost all my possessions including my wardrobe in one of the big wildfires out there. That led to some thinking around whether I really needed and wanted to spend this much money on re-establishing my wardrobe. Everything had gone more casual, and even as a partner in large consulting company, I almost never wore a tie anymore and my co-workers definitely didn't dress up at all hardly anymore. After I recovered from the fire, I went on a path of buying "cheap and lousy" RTW suits (think H&M, Zara, etc). I looked and felt like crap... I think it was a reaction to not wanting to invest in material things at all since I learned that what really matters is that my family and I made it out of the fire and survived. Things mattered less to me after that experience.

Now, a couple of years later, I have realized that I am happiest when I have a few very nice things - instead of a lot of inexpensive crap of lower quality. That applies to now having re-established my shoe collection, my shirts, etc. Suits, I really hadn't focused too much since I've been working from home that last 2 years and haven't traveled at all. So the time has come to re-establish a small and well-fitting suit wardrobe. And another primary goal is to enjoy that process and experiment with it and learn from it.

That leads me to the answer to your question:
I deliberately chose those two tailors to learn something. I'd like to experience the process and the differences and similarities. The quality, the service, the end results, etc. I also chose them because they both stand for a "Savile Row extension to NYC". That's convenient for me - and probably applicable to many on this forum for whom access to NYC is much easier than going to London.

I am not 100% sure what I expect out of it - and I'm fine with that. It's an experience. Maybe I'll conclude that CATD is not worth it - maybe the opposite. Not sure - but I will be wiser and those two experiences will inform what I do from there. It's a unique situation for sure to be given the opportunity to create a wardrobe from scratch. I am looking forward to it. First appointments with both are on Thursday. I'll report back. Have a great week-end.

 

[lordsuperb]

who dis? can't seem to find and related social media or website

Permanent Style

The work of Fred Nieddu, ‘Taillour’

www.permanentstyle.com

 

[dieworkwear]

Good question. Here is the short version of my background. I'm in my 50s and lived and worked in Hong Kong when I was younger and started my career. As a natural thing out there, I went bespoke right out of university and leveraged the same tailor out there for decades since I had an existing relationship with him. After I moved away, it just became an easy way to order suits, shirts and trousers since the patterns were all in place.

In 2017 I lived in California and lost all my possessions including my wardrobe in one of the big wildfires out there. That led to some thinking around whether I really needed and wanted to spend this much money on re-establishing my wardrobe. Everything had gone more casual, and even as a partner in large consulting company, I almost never wore a tie anymore and my co-workers definitely didn't dress up at all hardly anymore. After I recovered from the fire, I went on a path of buying "cheap and lousy" RTW suits (think H&M, Zara, etc). I looked and felt like crap... I think it was a reaction to not wanting to invest in material things at all since I learned that what really matters is that my family and I made it out of the fire and survived. Things mattered less to me after that experience.

Now, a couple of years later, I have realized that I am happiest when I have a few very nice things - instead of a lot of inexpensive crap of lower quality. That applies to now having re-established my shoe collection, my shirts, etc. Suits, I really hadn't focused too much since I've been working from home that last 2 years and haven't traveled at all. So the time has come to re-establish a small and well-fitting suit wardrobe. And another primary goal is to enjoy that process and experiment with it and learn from it.

That leads me to the answer to your question:
I deliberately chose those two tailors to learn something. I'd like to experience the process and the differences and similarities. The quality, the service, the end results, etc. I also chose them because they both stand for a "Savile Row extension to NYC". That's convenient for me - and probably applicable to many on this forum for whom access to NYC is much easier than going to London.

I am not 100% sure what I expect out of it - and I'm fine with that. It's an experience. Maybe I'll conclude that CATD is not worth it - maybe the opposite. Not sure - but I will be wiser and those two experiences will inform what I do from there. It's a unique situation for sure to be given the opportunity to create a wardrobe from scratch. I am looking forward to it. First appointments with both are on Thursday. I'll report back. Have a great week-end.

Really sorry to hear about your home. I live in the same area and remember the smoke from that year's fire. I'm glad you made it out alive, although I can't imagine a more horrific non-lethal experience. I remember attending a wedding once and sitting across the table from a couple who had just lost their home in a fire. I remember being in awe of their strength when they talked about their experience.

 

[Krish the Fish]

The last parts of my first commission with Steven Hitchcock are on their way across the pond. I have 2 suits and a sport coat on their way, with my tuxedo already in hand. Having worn the tuxedo already I noticed a few alterations I want to change on the pattern (slimming sleeve width a little and trouser width a fair bit from the seat through the knee) as well as some small things with the tuxedo itself (came with side vents but asked for it no vent, etc.) that should be well within the realm of expectations for a first commission. I am going to miss him on his next journey in May, but should get around to seeing him in October when I can get the alterations made and probably order my next dinner jacket for a wedding I will be in in fall '23.

 

[classicalthunde]

Good question. Here is the short version of my background. I'm in my 50s and lived and worked in Hong Kong when I was younger and started my career. As a natural thing out there, I went bespoke right out of university and leveraged the same tailor out there for decades since I had an existing relationship with him. After I moved away, it just became an easy way to order suits, shirts and trousers since the patterns were all in place.

In 2017 I lived in California and lost all my possessions including my wardrobe in one of the big wildfires out there. That led to some thinking around whether I really needed and wanted to spend this much money on re-establishing my wardrobe. Everything had gone more casual, and even as a partner in large consulting company, I almost never wore a tie anymore and my co-workers definitely didn't dress up at all hardly anymore. After I recovered from the fire, I went on a path of buying "cheap and lousy" RTW suits (think H&M, Zara, etc). I looked and felt like crap... I think it was a reaction to not wanting to invest in material things at all since I learned that what really matters is that my family and I made it out of the fire and survived. Things mattered less to me after that experience.

Now, a couple of years later, I have realized that I am happiest when I have a few very nice things - instead of a lot of inexpensive crap of lower quality. That applies to now having re-established my shoe collection, my shirts, etc. Suits, I really hadn't focused too much since I've been working from home that last 2 years and haven't traveled at all. So the time has come to re-establish a small and well-fitting suit wardrobe. And another primary goal is to enjoy that process and experiment with it and learn from it.

That leads me to the answer to your question:
I deliberately chose those two tailors to learn something. I'd like to experience the process and the differences and similarities. The quality, the service, the end results, etc. I also chose them because they both stand for a "Savile Row extension to NYC". That's convenient for me - and probably applicable to many on this forum for whom access to NYC is much easier than going to London.

I am not 100% sure what I expect out of it - and I'm fine with that. It's an experience. Maybe I'll conclude that CATD is not worth it - maybe the opposite. Not sure - but I will be wiser and those two experiences will inform what I do from there. It's a unique situation for sure to be given the opportunity to create a wardrobe from scratch. I am looking forward to it. First appointments with both are on Thursday. I'll report back. Have a great week-end.

Thanks for sharing (and sorry to hear about your troubles). A couple of years ago i realized I really "like" any of my own clothes and started a full wardrobe refresh as I approached the back end of my 30s. So I'm always interested in how someone arrives what pieces to get for their current lifestyle, how they pick a stylistic direction, how their clothes budget is allocated, and what their overall thought process is throughout the whole thing

Excited to follow along and hear your thoughts on the choices, the differences in garments and the overall experience

 

[nmprisons]

The last parts of my first commission with Steven Hitchcock are on their way across the pond. I have 2 suits and a sport coat on their way, with my tuxedo already in hand. Having worn the tuxedo already I noticed a few alterations I want to change on the pattern (slimming sleeve width a little and trouser width a fair bit from the seat through the knee) as well as some small things with the tuxedo itself (came with side vents but asked for it no vent, etc.) that should be well within the realm of expectations for a first commission. I am going to miss him on his next journey in May, but should get around to seeing him in October when I can get the alterations made and probably order my next dinner jacket for a wedding I will be in in fall '23.

I'm glad you're happy with your commissions. If you were clear in your request for no vents and they nevertheless provided side vents, I'd view that as well outside "the realm of expectations for a first commission." I assume he offered to remake and you declined?

 

[Krish the Fish]

I'm glad you're happy with your commissions. If you were clear in your request for no vents and they nevertheless provided side vents, I'd view that as well outside "the realm of expectations for a first commission." I assume he offered to remake and you declined?

He said it was not a big concern and would be easily fixed. I have taken him at his word.

 

[Spinster Jones]

There's a local tailor shop here in Oslo that's been around since '95, according to their website. It says that they do full bespoke with Tessuti-wool for 1300$, or Dormeuil merino super 130 for around 2500$. Would you guys say that's a good price?

The only problem is that it's hard to understand whether this is their cut, or if this is what customers ask for:

But a bespoke shirt is around 200$. Might be smarter to start there?

 

[bdavro23]

He said it was not a big concern and would be easily fixed. I have taken him at his word.

Closing side vents is easy, nothing to worry about.

Do you have pictures of your tuxedo? I'd love to see it.

 

[corpseposeur]

I think of C&M as being a descendent of Tommy Nutter and thus has some of that flair. Huntsman by comparison is more conservative "British gentleman"

FWIW Terry Haste worked at both shops and can cut both styles. I think most of the work I've seen from him at Kent & Haste is more similar to Huntsman.

For reference to the Nutter style, Jack Nicholson's suits in the 1989 Batman movie were all done by Terry. His pricing is reasonable, relative to the other shops mentioned.

Also Edward Sexton visits major US cities a few times a year for another Nutter cut. Sexton also has some RTW and some "offshore" (Chinese)-made bespoke that are more acessible pricing wise but they also have their UK bespoke shop. I've tried on their RTW Bridgecoat and I found the tailoring to be quite nice with a lot of handwork, finely executed hand-stitched buttonholes and everything. I was surprised at how soft the canvas was for such a structured coat.