Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Boggis]

2. Stand naturally at the fittings. Sometimes guys throw their shoulders back and stand overly erect when in front of a mirror. If you do this, the coat will end up being fitted for a different posture.

This has been on my mind as I'm planning a new suit soon. This advice makes perfect sense, i.e. don't stand unnaturally. However like many desk workers my 'natural' posture is awful, I.e. rounded shoulders, forward head and pelvic tilt.
I know how to consciously correct this into good posture, and typically do this when I remember to, but often forget when preoccupied or distracted.

So when commissioning clothes, it strikes me that I'd rather have it cut for me standing correctly rather than standing with bad posture as this gives me more incentive to stand correctly as otherwise the collar/shoulders won't sit right.
Having it cut to match my bad posture seems like resigning myself to having a banana spine for the remainder of my time with the new suit.

 

[bdavro23]

Unless you must have a full wardrobe immediately for work etc, one piece per season is the way to go. Just steadily replace one rtw piece each season with a bespoke one. Over time, your relationship with your tailor will get better, and both of you will better understand what works for you and what doesn't.

This makes sense for enthusiasts and people who view tailoring as part of their hobby. For a lot of guys, they just want a couple suits or jackets a few times a year to keep their wardrobes updated or to fit their size at the moment.

For my MTM company, the enthusiasts are usually more fun to work with, to a point. The guys who just want clothes are usually easier.

 

[bdavro23]

This has been on my mind as I'm planning a new suit soon. This advice makes perfect sense, i.e. don't stand unnaturally. However like many desk workers my 'natural' posture is awful, I.e. rounded shoulders, forward head and pelvic tilt.
I know how to consciously correct this into good posture, and typically do this when I remember to, but often forget when preoccupied or distracted.

So when commissioning clothes, it strikes me that I'd rather have it cut for me standing correctly rather than standing with bad posture as this gives me more incentive to stand correctly as otherwise the collar/shoulders won't sit right.
Having it cut to match my bad posture seems like resigning myself to having a banana spine for the remainder of my time with the new suit.

Stand how you stand. If you are affecting your posture in a way that is unnatural to you during your fittings, the outcome will be terrible and you might as well just buy off the rack. Tailoring shouldnt be aspirational, in that you shouldnt make things for a weight you hope to be, or a posture you hope to have. Never lie to your doctor, lawyer or tailor...

 

[Texasmade]

Stand how you stand. If you are affecting your posture in a way that is unnatural to you during your fittings, the outcome will be terrible and you might as well just buy off the rack. Tailoring shouldnt be aspirational, in that you shouldnt make things for a weight you hope to be, or a posture you hope to have. Never lie to your doctor, lawyer or tailor...

Good thing you left off spouse on the list of people to never lie to.

 

[bdavro23]

Good thing you left off spouse on the list of people to never lie to.

Well, I want to stay married...

 

[FlyingHorker]

This has been on my mind as I'm planning a new suit soon. This advice makes perfect sense, i.e. don't stand unnaturally. However like many desk workers my 'natural' posture is awful, I.e. rounded shoulders, forward head and pelvic tilt.
I know how to consciously correct this into good posture, and typically do this when I remember to, but often forget when preoccupied or distracted.

So when commissioning clothes, it strikes me that I'd rather have it cut for me standing correctly rather than standing with bad posture as this gives me more incentive to stand correctly as otherwise the collar/shoulders won't sit right.
Having it cut to match my bad posture seems like resigning myself to having a banana spine for the remainder of my time with the new suit.

This is a bad idea.

Willing yourself into "good" posture has a good likelihood of making things worse on your body. Ask me how I know.

It took me a good while to get rid of my own pelvic tilt. It involved lifting weights, visiting physical therapy for stretching and strengthening.

Forward neck and rounded shoulders is one battle I haven't won yet.

I would either accept your posture and get the commission, or start working on it and hold off on getting a new bespoke suit.

 

[Despos]

Stand how you stand. If you are affecting your posture in a way that is unnatural to you during your fittings, the outcome will be terrible and you might as well just buy off the rack. Tailoring shouldnt be aspirational, in that you shouldnt make things for a weight you hope to be, or a posture you hope to have. Never lie to your doctor, lawyer or tailor...

This ^
well cut suit minimizes the effects of posture issues.
Can camouflage irregularities by utilizing balance and proportions. That’s what tailoring adds to a garment over RTW.

 

[ericgereghty]

This has been on my mind as I'm planning a new suit soon. This advice makes perfect sense, i.e. don't stand unnaturally. However like many desk workers my 'natural' posture is awful, I.e. rounded shoulders, forward head and pelvic tilt.
I know how to consciously correct this into good posture, and typically do this when I remember to, but often forget when preoccupied or distracted.

So when commissioning clothes, it strikes me that I'd rather have it cut for me standing correctly rather than standing with bad posture as this gives me more incentive to stand correctly as otherwise the collar/shoulders won't sit right.
Having it cut to match my bad posture seems like resigning myself to having a banana spine for the remainder of my time with the new suit.

Bad idea, if for no other reason then never receiving your official #menswear ID. Can never be acquired whilst maintaining good posture.

 

[dieworkwear]

I don't know anything about physical or medical stuff, but I used to go to a physical therapist to improve my posture. My impression is similar to what @FlyingHorker describes above. It's not just about mindfulness, but about rebuilding certain parts of your body. You have to retrain your muscles so they're in a certain position when you're relaxed. Takes a bit of exercising, stretching, and even reorientating your lifestyle. I went for about a year, stopped, and then returned to my old office routines and lost what I had gained through physical therapy.

If you want to improve your posture, know it takes a bit of work. I agree with Despos that good tailoring helps hide some of these issues. I ultimately accepted that I'm just lazy.

 

[Boggis]

Great to get some different insights here, particularly from people in the trade. I can totally see why you don't want to be "aspirational" about your physique when commissioning clothes I.e. having a jacket cut for the traps you don't have and trousers cut for a waist circumference you wish you had.

However, I've been to a physiotherapist & the posture has been identified as contributory to the issues that took me there in the first place. It would seem a shame to have a piece cut for a stance I'm actively working to change. I appreciate though that's the exact same logic people use when they claim they're going to lose a few lbs and gain a bit of muscle and want the cloth cut accordingly...

Curious to understand more @FlyingHorker about the risks involved here. In terms of consciously correcting the posture, I mean engaging the glutes slightly, rotating the shoulders back gently and tucking the chin under. Not trying to stand ramrod straight with the chest pushed out as you often see when people try to over correct. I was on the same road with gym work, weights & stretching but COVID shutdown knocked my (at the time very decent) progress and I've not yet got back on the horse...

 

[sugarbutch]

Great to get some different insights here, particularly from people in the trade. I can totally see why you don't want to be "aspirational" about your physique when commissioning clothes I.e. having a jacket cut for the traps you don't have and trousers cut for a waist circumference you wish you had.

However, I've been to a physiotherapist & the posture has been identified as contributory to the issues that took me there in the first place. It would seem a shame to have a piece cut for a stance I'm actively working to change. I appreciate though that's the exact same logic people use when they claim they're going to lose a few lbs and gain a bit of muscle and want the cloth cut accordingly...

Curious to understand more @FlyingHorker about the risks involved here. In terms of consciously correcting the posture, I mean engaging the glutes slightly, rotating the shoulders back gently and tucking the chin under. Not trying to stand ramrod straight with the chest pushed out as you often see when people try to over correct. I was on the same road with gym work, weights & stretching but COVID shutdown knocked my (at the time very decent) progress and I've not yet got back on the horse...

Sounds to me like you're making an argument for postponing the commission until you've made the postural changes you're working on.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Great to get some different insights here, particularly from people in the trade. I can totally see why you don't want to be "aspirational" about your physique when commissioning clothes I.e. having a jacket cut for the traps you don't have and trousers cut for a waist circumference you wish you had.

However, I've been to a physiotherapist & the posture has been identified as contributory to the issues that took me there in the first place. It would seem a shame to have a piece cut for a stance I'm actively working to change. I appreciate though that's the exact same logic people use when they claim they're going to lose a few lbs and gain a bit of muscle and want the cloth cut accordingly...

Curious to understand more @FlyingHorker about the risks involved here. In terms of consciously correcting the posture, I mean engaging the glutes slightly, rotating the shoulders back gently and tucking the chin under. Not trying to stand ramrod straight with the chest pushed out as you often see when people try to over correct. I was on the same road with gym work, weights & stretching but COVID shutdown knocked my (at the time very decent) progress and I've not yet got back on the horse...

Ah good. Yes, I would stand ramrod straight and I ended up hyperextending my spine a lot of the time, and pushed out my gut, worsening my anterior pelvic tilt.

It sounds like you've good self-awareness though. Yes, posture is one factor from my understanding.

It's ok to fall off the horse, get back up and try again!

 

[driving glove]

.
It's ok to fall off the horse, get back up and try again!
[/QUOTE]

Strongly agree. I have had a slouch as long as I can remember, worsened by a sedentary career. Have recently taken up pilates as much as anything to regain some mobility, but am apparently
standing more erectly. Have not checked in with my tailor for the last two years but hope to next spring so will be interested if he sees a change.
Regardless, if you make the investment in beautiful clothes, it is a bonus if you move better.

 

[ericgereghty]

Sounds to me like you're making an argument for postponing the commission until you've made the postural changes you're working on.

100% this. It’s also demanding an extreme amount from your tailor to accurately account for what your future self ought to measure up as. Fraught with risk, if nothing else

 

[dieworkwear]

How I sit when emailing my tailor for an appointment