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Encathol Epistemia

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I have several bespoke garments paused by the current crisis. Joseph Genuardi has a suite and a blazer ready for a final fitting that I was due for as everything seized up. He hasn't acted upon the 'tele-tailoring' (admittedly my phrase) that he suggested when I delayed the fitting, but I hope to see him sometime this summer, although the winter and fall-weight garments that he's made for me will have live in my closet for a while before their first earnest wearing, because of the cursed timing.

To my relief, on Thursday John Di Pietro, whom I'd last heard from in late February, called me to tell me that my dinner jacket, with accompanying trousers, was almost finished and he seemed eager to have me back in the shop to finish the piece when Philadelphia's lockdown is lifted. I must concede that I was worried about him, as he's eighty-five, but neither a fool nor likely to risk his health after having survived prostate cancer. He seemed very pleased with how the dinner jacket came out and I'm eager to see the extravagant garment myself. After that, I mean to commission five matched trousers and waistcoats with a coordinating sport coat to double my office wardrobe. I'm also interested in some casual summer matched vest-and-trousers pairs.
 

4r36

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Here they are, completed! Fresh out of the box. Sorry not too many exciting pictures, it's 80 degrees... Enjoy nonetheless.
View attachment 1389463
View attachment 1389464 View attachment 1389465

Very deep vents. Definitely longer than the usual 11 inches. Interesting! I have seen them cut so high in jackets by Gennaro Annunziata in Naples:

1.png


Just a stylistic choice or is there a more technical reason?
 

Crispyj

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Very deep vents. Definitely longer than the usual 11 inches. Interesting! I have seen them cut so high in jackets by Gennaro Annunziata in Naples:

View attachment 1389961

Just a stylistic choice or is there a more technical reason?
No idea if there is any practical use for a longer vents. These are 12inches. Frank suggested 13 to start ?
 

Toninno

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Very deep vents. Definitely longer than the usual 11 inches. Interesting! I have seen them cut so high in jackets by Gennaro Annunziata in Naples:

View attachment 1389961

Just a stylistic choice or is there a more technical reason?
old henry Stewart
No idea if there is any practical use for a longer vents. These are 12inches. Frank suggested 13 to start ?
the old 57th st style vent was a high vent. Henry Stewart said you should be able to but your hand in your pockets from the side and the vents don’t move.
 

Crispyj

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old henry Stewart

the old 57th st style vent was a high vent. Henry Stewart said you should be able to but your hand in your pockets from the side and the vents don’t move.
I should have listened to you and went with 13 inch vents, maybe even 14 inch next time.
 

Aelric

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I posted these in the Toronto thread after someone asked, but I might as well cross post them here. First commission from Brenton and Co in Toronto. Note that I'm slouching a bit after too long hunched over a computer on the couch. Their house style is a more British cut, although I asked for a 3r2 here.
 

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willyto

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I wonder what is your take on no vents for you bespoke customers and tailors. I've never liked side vents to start with but I don't mind center vents on certain belted back jackets.
 

4r36

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I'm not fond of central vents. No vents would be cool, but doesn't require a regular, and quite complex, pressing to work out?

P.S In fact, I was thinking about jackets with no vents and not even a central seam across the back. Jeffery posted one on his blog some years ago. Still, I don't know whether normal jackets with no vents need a regular pressing...
 
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