Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Despos]

Think of the occasions the suit will be worn and pick an appropriate cloth.
Think Elegance. Get a navy suit for special occasions. Something that makes you feel dressed up when you wear it. If you have a wife, something equal to something special she would wear to an event but too dressy for every day use.
If you are going all in consider adding a vest.
Reasoning is you have an abundance of everyday suits. They won't be as nice for special events. You are going the custom route so get something special to avoid having just a better made everyday suit. Forget about concept garments for the "how many ways can I wear a SB and DB jacket".

This suit will come in handy when you need it even of you don't need it very often.
It's the suit I wear when special occasions come up and the dress code is elevated.

 

[dieworkwear]

Am I right in assuming that the downsides are the physical work of changing buttons out when necessary (rather than slipping on a different garment), plus the fabric and stylistic elements being exactly the same, and colleagues being able to recognize such and in this regard it looks cheap? This was my biggest fear with such an idea.

I don't have a SwissArmy suit, so I can't speak about the experience of changing buttons. From a very rough memory of Vox's thread, I vaguely remember him saying this was intended as a travel garment. Personally, I imagine I would be too lazy to swap out buttons like that on a regular basis.

I don't think most people are familiar enough with tailored clothing to understand all the nuances of pocket styles or whatever. But I was speaking more about my experience of having a jacket that sits somewhere between a sport coat and a suit jacket. Harrison's Oyster isn't the ideal sport coat fabric, but it's doable for a suit. Patch pockets aren't ideal for a navy suit, but I thought this would allow me to wear the jacket more easily as a sport coat.

If you think of the ideal sport coat and ideal suit, the BlazerSuit/ SwissArmy suit sits somewhere between these in terms of fabric and styling configuration. There's no real way to get everything without some tradeoff.

If you don't wear a suit often, however, then this can be a way to get more use out of a commission. You just have to live with the fact that it's not an ideal suit. I don't think people in real life notice a difference, but it will feel less ideal to you.

 

[Despos]

This blazer suit idea.
Get a blue suit in generic weave with flap pockets. Wear the flaps inside the pocket, Besom pocket, wear a white or conservative plain shirt during the day as a suit.

Navy suit with patch pockets is odd to me unless the cloth has a casual texture/weave. So it's already a casual suit by the nature of the cloth.

Wear the flaps out and wear a blue shirt, stripe shirt, tattersol/gingham shirt; whatever you want when you wear it as a casual jacket. Wear an odd trouser, color of your liking.

Accessories have a bigger visual impact and change the effect in a more obvious way than changing just the buttons.
And you don't have to pack an extra set of buttons.

Insert grouchy old codger emoji here_________

 

[jiredell]

Yes, this is what I meant re fabric and styling. I wouldn’t have a suit with patch pockets, for example, nor, say; a hopsack weave. Ok gents. Good talk!

 

[Despos]

I need to shift the right sleeve. But it looks good

Frank, kudos for making a jacket and not meeting the client at any time. You are a brave tailor! Jacket looks nice!
Your comment to "shift" the sleeve reminded me of this commercial.

 

[DavidLane]

Last fitting came in. Frank (graciously, thank you!) recut and remade both sleeves after we switched to a non roped shoulder. Next time will be the finished garment. Sleeves are a bit wrinkled from shipping, USPS delays.
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Frank @Toninno this is great! Congrats to both customer @Crispyj and tailor.

-DL

 

[Crispyj]

I can't wait for Fall to bring this masterpiece out! When I do, y'all know who's walking down the streets of NYC.

 

[Flake]

Frank, kudos for making a jacket and not meeting the client at any time. You are a brave tailor! Jacket looks nice!
Your comment to "shift" the sleeve reminded me of this commercial.

If this virus thing lasts much longer, we might have to give this a try... at least you have a good head start on my current commissions

 

[Despos]

If this virus thing lasts much longer, we might have to give this a try... at least you have a good head start on my current commissions

@Flake
Didn’t think of it but let’s do a remote final fitting. Good idea Flake

 

[clothingfun]

Whoa there cowboy. Where are you in Nevada? I lived in Reno for 10 years before transplanting to the South. Love these links and would love info on the make etc. I know I could like look at your profile or go back thru the thread to gain more info but this is what being in the South does to you it makes you so lazy you write runon sentences.

Hello once again and as usual I hope everyone is well. Thanks to everyone for your kind words. Both here and via PM.

To try and supply a bit of a response to the questions I have received, the symbols are Hopi and Duane had to explain them to me. I just give him a few general ideas I have in mind and then leave him alone to work. The surprise is always enjoyable and I’m never disappointed.

@jiredell back a little ways in this thread I posted another pair he made for me recently. Please have a look. However, I will share again a little bit about this very fine silversmith:

Duane Tawahongva - Hopi Arts Trail

There are four primary forms in Hopi art and Hopi Artwork: Hopi Pottery, Hopi Carving, Hopi Basketry, Hopi Weaving, and Hopi Silversmithing and Hopi Jewelry.

hopiartstrail.com

I have no financial interest. I just love his work! I have been a pretty serious collector most of my life and his work is just excellent. Very distinct if you have an eye for this kind of thing. I enjoy pieces made in the shapes of the various Western States. I hope I’m not muddying up this thread but below is a tie he made me a few years ago.

@Crispyj darned fine jacket. Very nice to see fine tailoring is still alive in the U.S. Thanks for sharing.

 

[brax]

Am I right in assuming that the downsides are the physical work of changing buttons out when necessary (rather than slipping on a different garment), plus the fabric and stylistic elements being exactly the same, and colleagues being able to recognize such and in this regard it looks cheap? This was my biggest fear with such an idea.

I have the Vox Swiss Army suit made of navy Frontier. And it fits one niche very well. Travel suit. Instead of packing 2-3 suits, I can add an extra pair of pents, a few shirts, and a few ties and I'm good for the week.

 

[brax]

Think of the occasions the suit will be worn and pick an appropriate cloth.
Think Elegance. Get a navy suit for special occasions. Something that makes you feel dressed up when you wear it. If you have a wife, something equal to something special she would wear to an event but too dressy for every day use.
If you are going all in consider adding a vest.
Reasoning is you have an abundance of everyday suits. They won't be as nice for special events. You are going the custom route so get something special to avoid having just a better made everyday suit. Forget about concept garments for the "how many ways can I wear a SB and DB jacket".

This suit will come in handy when you need it even of you don't need it very often.
It's the suit I wear when special occasions come up and the dress code is elevated.

I think this is exactly right and took Despos’s advice myself. I don’t wear this Despos suit all that often and never for business. But I was married in it and wear it for exactly the occasions Despos is talking about.

 

[driving glove]

I think this is exactly right and took Despos’s advice myself. I don’t wear this Despos suit all that often and never for business. But I was married in it and wear it for exactly the occasions Despos is talking about.
View attachment 1382143

 

[driving glove]

Honestly, wish I had been married in a Despos suit but awfully fortunate to have a bride that values him as much as I do and has funded a good part of my commissions with him.
Beautiful suit, brax!

 

[Despos]

I think this is exactly right and took Despos’s advice myself. I don’t wear this Despos suit all that often and never for business. But I was married in it and wear it for exactly the occasions Despos is talking about.
View attachment 1382143

There is a vest to wear with that suit. Next time we meet.