Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[sugarbutch]

That's why we have the head around to temper its passions. If you were to pick one of those two fabrics to make up into a jacket, which would you go with, the light or the dark?

I would choose the darker fabric

 

[mktitsworth]

I would choose the darker fabric

That's the one that has appealed more to me as well.

 

[ppk]

That's why we have the head around to temper its passions. If you were to pick one of those two fabrics to make up into a jacket, which would you go with, the light or the dark?

The dark. It's lovely.

 

[DorianGreen]

That's why we have the head around to temper its passions. If you were to pick one of those two fabrics to make up into a jacket, which would you go with, the light or the dark?

I'll be the contrarian here, granted that both fabrics are gorgeous, I would go for the lighter one, as it's more unique in my eyes.

Of course, the best option is taking both.

 

[potter AB]

wanted to share two garments made bespoke on a trip to New Delhi recently.
A cream trouser pair in VBC 110’s and a Nehru Jacket in a Reda 280g fabric.

The request to tailor was being in UK wanted to try a high waisted trousers that drape well and for winters wanted a garment to cover chest when sitting indoors. It needs to be warm as a layer over the shirt but not feel hot due to radiators etc. ideally keeps the arms free being a doctor and also typing all day.
A bundee/nehru jacket seemed like a good idea.

Queries:

Trousers:
- I realised that such high waisted trousers would have looked much better with pleats or something.
- The Tailor i feel somehow could not get a straight crease on the back which am not sure why would that be the case.
- also, a peculiar thing about my anatomy is that i think I have a slightly bigger crotch so am sensitive if there is limited space there however to avoid that the zipper and overall area looks too baggy now . Somehow need to understand how to attain a happy middle?
- trousers has side tabs and is constructed to sit slightly above the navel however the trouser keeps getting pulled down unless I tighten the side tabs quite a lot.
- finally as I sit the fabric tends to feel pulled towards from knee to thighs which is a common problem in trouser construction but I dont know what could the tailor be advised to correct it? Tailor said that whenever we sit there would be some of that creasing towards the crotch and is usual.

Nehru jacket:
- seems satisfied but i think my choice of fabric could have been better.
Apparently i wanted a blue/brown texture however this jacket had mid blue, dark blue kinda checks however from a distance the lighter colour feels dominant.


comments welcome for future learnings.

Your trousers seem too wide at the top. That's why you have to pull those side tabs so much. Also, the fork seems low in the picture or is that because the trousers are coming down? Narrowing that area should reduce the problems e.g. also that wrinkling at the back.

The Nehru vest looks too short, no? In any case those vents should lie flat on your bum.

but I dont know what could the tailor be advised to correct it

A decent tailor will know all this and should not be advised by us. Has there been any fitting of trousers and vest at all?

Edit: can't see why you are disappointed with the fabric. It isn't loud at all and quite versatile.

Re: the tension between knee and thighs. Well, while sitting down lift up the fabric above each knee with thumbs and index fingers and pull it a little back. That will reduce the tension. Make sure you wear long (i.e. below-the-knee) socks 😊

 

[FlowableFill]

So I have this jacket idea that I think I need to be talked out of. The details are open to interpretation, but the impetus is in wanting to create a 2-color of a jacket from a pair of matching fabrics like this and this. I don't see it as something necessarily MC, but it could be a piece that wouldn't seem out of place at No Man.

Someone tell me I'm bonkers.

Like this?

 

[mktitsworth]

Like this?

The first one sort of gets to it. I went in and talked to the tailor today. Part of the idea was to create something that he would find interesting; something that would spark his creative interest. We talked over pockets more than I expected, but he had some ideas that I want to let him run with because I want this to be a piece that shows off his style and what he thinks he can do. I want it to be a statement piece that works for both of us. The best part was that he was excited by the idea and bought the premise. So the piece will move forward and I will chronicle it here.

Apparently, as butchy puts it, 'the heart wants what the heart wants.'

 

[comrade]

Bonkers. I am not a clinician. But philosophizing about tailored clothing
is a misdirection of your gifts.

 

[tdang]

Anybody has any recommendations for light-to-mid-weight hopsack jacketings in atypical colors (burgundy, mushroom, forest green, etc.)? Ideally they should be dark and muted - had a look at Fox hopsacks but they're too lively for my taste.

I hope Kotaro will have some tasty vintage in the vault when I visit him next month, but just wondering if there might be something worth looking in the bunches. I've found that my favorite thing to wear is plain odd jackets with patterned shirts and ties, so the focus next year will be to expand that category in the rotation.

 

[classicalthunde]

Anybody has any recommendations for light-to-mid-weight hopsack jacketings in atypical colors (burgundy, mushroom, forest green, etc.)? Ideally they should be dark and muted - had a look at Fox hopsacks but they're too lively for my taste.

I hope Kotaro will have some tasty vintage in the vault when I visit him next month, but just wondering if there might be something worth looking in the bunches. I've found that my favorite thing to wear is plain odd jackets with patterned shirts and ties, so the focus next year will be to expand that category in the rotation.

Bateman Ogden Apollo has some hopsacks in those colors

Bateman & Ogden - Apollo

Bateman & Ogden, merchants of Suiting Cloth

www.batemanogden.co.uk

 

[Ilkless]

Been wearing the Ypsilon jacket pretty hard including for work trips but love the shoulder expression still. This is me just letting the jacket hang loose off my hand.

 

[CLH03]

Anybody has any recommendations for light-to-mid-weight hopsack jacketings in atypical colors (burgundy, mushroom, forest green, etc.)? Ideally they should be dark and muted - had a look at Fox hopsacks but they're too lively for my taste.

I hope Kotaro will have some tasty vintage in the vault when I visit him next month, but just wondering if there might be something worth looking in the bunches. I've found that my favorite thing to wear is plain odd jackets with patterned shirts and ties, so the focus next year will be to expand that category in the rotation.

Drapers Montecarlo

 

[tdang]

Bateman Ogden Apollo has some hopsacks in those colors

Bateman & Ogden - Apollo

Bateman & Ogden, merchants of Suiting Cloth

www.batemanogden.co.uk

This is literally the perfect texture and weight - thank you for the tip!

Drapers Montecarlo

Love the aubergine in here - thank you!