OFFICIAL Simon Crompton thread (PermanentStyle.com)

[classicalthunde]

Speaking of The Armoury, their prices start at $8800 so it's basically price parity once you deduct VAT and add FX rates. Not much savings between going to Italy and getting measured in person vs getting measured at The Armoury.

Right, and I imagine that their prices for NYC trunk shows will go up now that they're independent of The Armoury.

Curious what their price points are for their Asian trunk shows...

 

[vegancrabcakes]

I'm not to piped into the tailoring gossip...but I don't necessarily think so. My understanding is that:

- They had some foreign investor buy an ownership stake at big price tag (which means they probably need to turn larger profits) I might be wrong on this part
- They've been losing cutters (both Vittorio and Qemal are now independent and were both at one point head cutters since I've been paying attention to tailoring in the past 8 years)
- They've had to set up a "school" pay-to-apprentice program since they don't have enough people to make garments
- The garments have very long turn around times (I think someone said its 2-3 years to get a coat like Salmon's)
- They've cut ties with The Armoury, who has done a lot to popularize them to non-tailoring nerds so who knows how their foothold in the US will be going forward (which by comparative standards is where British tailor firms get 1/3-1/2 of their orders from)

What evidence do you have that they've cut ties with the Armoury? In fact Liverano has a trunk show with the Armoury in April (it's on the website).

 

[othertravel]

liverano & liverano wool silk jacket it50/uk40 Kiton Isaia Brioni Loro Piana | eBay

<p>liverano & liverano brown wool silk jacket it50/uk40</p><br /><p>wool 80% silk 20%</p><br /><p>light brown</p><br /><p>Bought in Osaka, the price was around 2500 pounds. </p><br /><p>Excellent condition. </p><br /><p>Chest 54cm</p><p>Shoulder 47cm</p><p>Length 73cm</p><p>Sleeve 60cm</p>

www.ebay.com

Not my listing, but a nice RTW piece.

 

[othertravel]

I'm surprised nobody here (that I know of) has tried Brioni's bespoke. The price appears way below L&L (albeit it's a different style).

 

[classicalthunde]

What evidence do you have that they've cut ties with the Armoury? In fact Liverano has a trunk show with the Armoury in April (it's on the website).

My understanding is that this year is the final set of trunk shows at The Armoury.

I don’t have any evidence per se, but read it here from (presumably) Armour/Liverano customers. I believe there was discussion of it on the Bespoke thread.

 

[Texasmade]

My understanding is that this year is the final set of trunk shows at The Armoury.

I don’t have any evidence per se, but read it here from (presumably) Armour/Liverano customers. I believe there was discussion of it on the Bespoke thread.

Makes me wonder what happens if you start a commission now on their Armoury trunk show. How do the fittings work post separation?

 

[aristoi bcn]

I think the only reason for those prices is that Antonio Liverano himself will unfortunately not be around for long and everybody knows it is the last chance to get something made by the Master himself.

 

[classicalthunde]

I think the only reason for those prices is that Antonio Liverano himself will unfortunately not be around for long and everybody knows it is the last chance to get something made by the Master himself.

Makes sense, but on the other hand they're unlikely to drop the price lower once the L&L torch has been passed to someone else...

 

[classicalthunde]

Makes me wonder what happens if you start a commission now on their Armoury trunk show. How do the fittings work post separation?

I imagine since you're paid up in full, you'd just meet them at their independent trunk shows to finish out the fittings. Although, I wonder if The Armoury will allow/promote first time appointments for new customers in April

 

[Zerase]

15k a coat, really? View attachment 2127467

Look at how (un)aligned the top buttons are. Like really? 15k€ for that sloppiness? GTFO

 

[aristoi bcn]

Makes sense, but on the other hand they're unlikely to drop the price lower once the L&L torch has been passed to someone else...

L&L will likely become a brand where bespoke is a very small part of the business. If Jin decides to leave, what is left?

 

[lordsuperb]

L&L will likely become a brand where bespoke is a very small part of the business. If Jin decides to leave, what is left?

I believe Liverano will be just fine moving forward. Francesco Guida and your current tailor were cutters for liverano before Qemal and Jin were in the spotlight.

 

[jonathanS]

I believe Liverano will be just fine moving forward. Francesco Guida and your current tailor were cutters for liverano before Qemal and Jin were in the spotlight.

What do you base this on?

Guida was never the head cutter. He was the workshop manager.

Antonio, before qemal, was the cutter. He’s old though - Vittorio was in between qemal & Jin.

who going to teach the next generation if Antonio passes & Jin leaves? There’s no real succession plan. It’s not like panico or Ciardi who’s son has taken (sons took over) over cutting prior to the passing of the old master. Last I heard, they were trying to teach taka to cut. Perhaps they need Jin to have an ownership stake to stay.

Old masters pass all the time, and sometimes their Sartoria follows - vestrucci retired completely, and tomasco folded the vestrucci brand into stefano bemer. At the same time, stefano bemer - the brand continued after the passing of stefano.

liverano’s rtw has its own issues though, so it’s not exactly clear. But, Perhaps that’s the solution?

 

[kashmir]

is Antonio still doing the cutting nowadays?

 

[jonathanS]

is Antonio still doing the cutting nowadays?

I don’t believe so. I don’t think he’s cut since 2010-2012 (I’m not sure the exact date)