Nigel Cabourn

[BLAUGRANA]

I doubt the collar is actually sewn down. My concern would be that the seams at the armpit are like that limited edition Deck Coat from AW12.

 

[alex99]

The Bureau Belfast has their NC up, and they describe the Donkey Jacket as follows:

900GM herringbone wool Donkey Jacket with 2 large front patch pockets, stitched down collar, 5 front buttons and a beautiful aged brown leather on the shoulders, back and sleeves.

That leather does look nice.

 

[ManofKent]

It's one of the nicest donkey jackets I've seen.

 

[buzzlulu]

I doubt the collar is actually sewn down. My concern would be that the seams at the armpit are like that limited edition Deck Coat from AW12.

Look at the pictures on the Bureau Belfast's website. You can clearly see in one photo that the collar is definitely sewn down. The threads are readily visible. One just needs to determine if it is that way for shipping and then the threads are meant to be cut.

It definitely reminds me of the limited edition Deck Coat with the oil cloth patches. I keep on kicking myself for not picking that one up. What was the problem with the seams at the armpit?
My only concern remains that the arms are not lines. If one is wearing a sweater than the very though of sliding your wool covered arms through the jacket already gives me the willies!

 

[ike_hiking_boots]



The website says its donegal wool. My North Sea jumper is all new wool. They do look very similar but North Sea make in England and the Cabourn website says theirs is made in Scotland - I think there was a post by Eric a little while back which named Cabourn's makers, IIRC they use Andersen in Scotland.

I must be looking at a different website! Where does it say donegal wool?

Can someone answer why the Everest Parka "Twist' is £500 less than the EP Indigo or Black Navy?

Agree, the new site is very clunky. I like 'arty' pictures but would prefer to see product photos of the garments.

BTW: You have to press Load More Items to see everything - very easy to miss this.

The Donkey jacket stands out - but if the collar is sewn down - well that sucks.

Coastal Command looks great - I'll just admire from afar.

 

[BLAUGRANA]

Look at the pictures on the Bureau Belfast's website. You can clearly see in one photo that the collar is definitely sewn down. The threads are readily visible. One just needs to determine if it is that way for shipping and then the threads are meant to be cut.

It definitely reminds me of the limited edition Deck Coat with the oil cloth patches. I keep on kicking myself for not picking that one up. What was the problem with the seams at the armpit?
My only concern remains that the arms are not lines. If one is wearing a sweater than the very though of sliding your wool covered arms through the jacket already gives me the willies!

I hadn't inspected the pictures, it just doesn't make sense. I see what you're referring to, but I'd say that clearly looks like it could/should be cut when you decide to wear it or more likely that it buttons down. Either way I'd be shocked if it was sewn down permanently.

 

[BLAUGRANA]

Context looks already sold out of one of the Filson jackets.

 

[Nookitect]

WTF on Context! I think they were sold out before they even sent out the email...

 

[buzzlulu]

Great marketing by Filson. Send out 6 jackets to 2 stores (Normandy/Canada and Context/USA) and have them sell out instantly.

With that said they ARE beautiful jackets. Bravo Nigel.

 

[BLAUGRANA]

WTF on Context! I think they were sold out before they even sent out the email...

I think so. I was surprised to see only one left yesterday, a Medium, when I checked.

Great marketing by Filson. Send out 6 jackets to 2 stores (Normandy/Canada and Context/USA) and have them sell out instantly.

With that said they ARE beautiful jackets. Bravo Nigel.

Well the guy/group that owns Filson also owns Shinola watches, so yes. That said I think Shinola gets a bad rap and I love all my Filson bags.

Surely there will be more stockists out there. On top of that, weren't there four jackets in total as well as a backpack??? So far I have only seen three shops that stocked the same two jackets though and only one of those has an online shop.

 

[BLAUGRANA]

Look at the pictures on the Bureau Belfast's website. You can clearly see in one photo that the collar is definitely sewn down. The threads are readily visible. One just needs to determine if it is that way for shipping and then the threads are meant to be cut.

It definitely reminds me of the limited edition Deck Coat with the oil cloth patches. I keep on kicking myself for not picking that one up. What was the problem with the seams at the armpit?
My only concern remains that the arms are not lines. If one is wearing a sweater than the very though of sliding your wool covered arms through the jacket already gives me the willies!

Missed the second part of your post. Indeed it looks very similar to the Bowers Deck Coat. I know because I still have one with the tags on it. The wool looks practically identical in both appearance/texture and color. Buttons too. On top of that the leather panels are placed almost exactly in the same spots. The only notable difference is the collar, which on the Bowers is shaped "differently."

The armpit holes are high and somewhat tight in the front. Tried it on again today and noticed it again, but then just tried it on again now and it lost sight of it. That said I would only do a woven shirt underneath and likely not a chunky knit sweater as a result. That said they are nicely reinforced.

The arms aren't lined. They're room enough though. However you would want some covering on the sleeve as it'd itch otherwise. The wool is thick and dense and surely warm, but rather raw and unrefined feeling.

 

[BLAUGRANA]

So you'll have to excuse this post if it's long, but I mentioned a few weeks back that I'd comment on some more recent buys I've made.

SS14 Armor Lux Grandad Shirt: I'd never had any previous experience with Armor Lux before this piece. Sure I knew about the brand, but measurement always sounded far too fitted. Well this piece was certainly the opposite. The name "Grandad" is certainly fitting in a sense as it's massively over-sized. I really should have down my homework on the fit before buying. It's just too big everywhere, especially in the length. In fact that's what really killed it for me. If at all you have slimmer fitting pants/denim and are thinking about this piece I'd pass. You definitely need a "regular" straight fit pant or more relaxed to pull it off if you ask me. That said I loved most everything else about the piece. All three colors were great, though I only handled the navy in person. The fabric and the construction were both top notch so if all of Armor Lux is like that then I can understand what all the fuss is about. The collar is reinforced and if I recall correctly so were the cuffs. I also like the little anchor tag (Armor Lux's tag I presume) which sort of fits in perfectly. The only knock apart from the fit for me were the buttons. Those who know me know that I am somewhat obsessive about buttons. While the grey buttons on this piece aren't cheap, they could have looked and felt nicer. They just seemed like standard buttons. At the end of the day it's just too bad the piece was so over-sized or I'd have hunted down at least the orange and probably the sky blue as well.

SS14 Shirt Jacket (Camo): This for me was one of the most highly anticipated pieces of SS14. I remember seeing it well in advance. In fact I liked both camo patterns, the more "traditional" as well as the new indigo camo. I was strongly considering the SS13 shirt jacket in navy when Superdenim had it on sale, but I'd really wanted the army color. So I was thrilled to see the SS14 return in both of those camo prints. The jacket sadly was a pass for me, at least for now. While I don't mind it so much, the coat is "coated", or it rather feels like the camo print is coated on to the coat. I've felt something like it before but I can't place it. It's not a wax or anything that would rub off so to speak, but it's coated on. The fit also didn't work too well for me. Perhaps if I was thinner, but it sort of bows out from the chest. It's also a bit short in that I didn't love the length as my jeans slouch down after time. Those were the only two real drawbacks for me though, but it must be said they were big enough for now. I've slimmed down some again since and maybe it'd work better, so maybe I'll get it another shot. Only other downfall is the lack of pockets, but it's a "shirt jacket" so that is understandable. Plenty to like about the piece though. Again, I do like both the camo prints. I'm somewhat of a sucker for camo, but the print has to be right and both of these are. I also love butcher buttons just because they're butcher buttons and regardless of their functionality. I also like the collar and if one can make it work I like it as a layering piece, under the SS14 Cameraman for example. Still with the fit I had to take a pass on this one, for now.

SS14 Cameraman: I'm a sucker for the Cameraman and it was a Cameraman that turned me on to Cabourn in the first place. In fact the SS12 raw yellow Cameraman is still a favorite of mine. So when I saw the SS14 version I was very excited and knew it'd be on my want list. Sadly it didn't deliver as I expected it too. I like the color of the jacket and it's a nice addition from that perspective. I also like the denim lower. However upon actually receiving the jacket I was disappointed. The upper isn't Mackintosh as advertised by End (yes, I know they need to update their page) and at least one other retailer. Now sure some of you are probably thinking "well that's a great thing." Well the upper isn't ventile either. It's a "PU" upper. Now I won't comment on that from a quality perspective as I haven't done the research on it and as I type this I think it's like the same feel, look and probably fabric as a Stutterheim, which I do want. So as I type I'm conflicted, but when I had the jacket before returning it I wasn't thrilled with the PU fabric. The other miss was the length of the sleeves. I compared them to another of my Cameramen, an SS12 colorway and IIRC the difference was an inche in the sleeve length. IMO the sleeves were already a bit long, but this was too much. Of course getting sleeves shorted isn't an impossibility and I've had them done by my tailor on some Barbours and those turned out great, however with the nature of this cuff and the nature of the fabric I'd be worried about taking a punt on alteration. So sadly it didn't work out for me, but again, as I write this I'm rethinking it.

SS14 Unlined Cold Weather Parka: I haven't said it yet in this post, but I've said it in this thread before that I really liked the SS14 collection. This was one of the pieces that over time grew on me and started to catch my eye. The photography done for the Cabourn site definitely helped in that regard as did the color choices. I already have the ventile parka from... SS12 I believe it was, the navy version, so I was comfortable with the fit, though if I recall correctly this one isn't quite as relaxed. Plenty to like about the piece as well. Nice buttons, the wood detailing at the hood and collar and the fact that the belt is on the exterior unlike the version that I have. However I took a pass on this one as well. I didn't like that it was unlined. For the price, and granted I got it on sale, I did feel as though it should have been lined. Of course the fabric would have had to have been more dense in my opinion, but it just felt a bit off. It's basically down to when I think I would wear it, specifically in what weather, and if it's appropriate for that weather. From a style standpoint I'd like to wear it in my cool weather, but it's not substantial enough. From a weight standpoint I'd like to wear it in warmer weather, but stylistically it doesn't work for that in my opinion. On top of that with the wax I would have liked it lined too. Still the way it is I'd reconsider it at a better price.

SS14 Military Sweat(shirt): My most recent buy and one I'd been wanting. I liked both colors, but only the army (more brownish) was available. As with everything else I did the research on the fit and I was quickly taken aback at how the garment fit from the site I got it from (Barney's Warehouse). The model, who I presume is 6'Everest" compared to my 5'10" height looked somewhat drowned in it. Of course Barney's doesn't specify measurments or model size, but measurements weren't hard to find. Looking at my usual size 50 I had two concerns: the chest and the length. In the case of the former I was concerned it'd be too wide. In the case of the latter I was concerned it be too long. So I felt confident in a 48 oddly enough. Sadly it doesn't work. The chest and length are both fine, but the torso is too fitted. Think the Aircraft Jacket, but in a sweatshirt (so more fitted) as opposed to outerwear. I could grab a 50, but I think it'll be too long. Too bad because I like the styling of the piece despite the fabric not bowling me over.

SS14 Moutain Parka: Well if you've read this far this could be the payoff. This for me was my most anticipated piece from SS14. I know there was some chatter from others about it as well, but the Canadian Jacket seemed to be the piece everyone else was anticipating from what I could tell. I however loved the color of the camo and the general styling of this jacket. Actually getting it and trying it in person was an experience I wasn't expecting though. For starters the ventile seemed a bit "worn" looking. Now don't get me wrong, it most certainly wasn't and it was a subtle, but it just seemed a bit... washed out? On top of that, there are lines in the fabric. Not pinstriping and the lines are both random and each jacket can have more or less though not a lot overall, but there are a small few lines in the fabric in most of these jackets I've seen. I checked a few sites and zoomed in on the photos and noticed it on multiple jackets, so it must just be the nature of the fabric. The fit was an experience in itself too. As you may already be aware, the jacket comes equipped with internal shoulder sling straps so that it can be worn like a backpack I assume in the event that you get too warm with it on. While a nice feature from a functionality standpoint, it can be annoying in terms of actually wearing the jacket. For starters if you wear it and don't use the straps, they make the jacket stick out in the back and it's obvious there's something inside the jacket. So that means you actually have to put your arms through them or have them removed from the jacket by a tailor, the latter of which I'm sure can be done but probably wouldn't easy. So it's putting your arms through them then. Now doing this I would say it's much easier actually getting them on before you actually put your arms into the sleeves. So a two step process. The next issue is the cuffs. When you put the jacket on they are fine. However when you want to take the jacket off you have to undo them, or at least I do. That brings me to taking the jacket off altogether. For starters you have to undo said cuffs as I said. Then you have to take your arms out. Then you have to pull the straps off (as you would a backpack). Now I suppose that latter step is a good thing considering the functionality of the piece as you'd want it to stay on and not fall off if you were wearing it that way. However it's a heck of a fussy jacket. The other small knock I have are the interior pull tabs to bring the coat in at the waist. I would have liked them to be better reinforced at the hole while also having a clip or something to keep them in place once you pull them in. Not a major knock by any means, but this being a Cabourn piece the details do matter. That said I love this jacket. The fit for me isn't fitted in general despite some sites (even Cabourn's own?) referring to it as such. That said it's somewhat fitted for Cabourn. Still coming from me I'd say if you have any doubts you'd be more than fine with your normal size coming from me. Either way, I really like the look of the fit on. Plenty of room for my chest, but the body is tailored such that it looks good on. I know I talked about the straps and how fussy they can be, but I do have to say how substantial and thick they are. They look military issue and feel heavy duty. The pull tabs are the same fabric as well. As I mentioned, I love the camo color. Print actually seems to be the reverse of the SS13 limited edition ventile Aircraft Jacket. Anyway, just more of a brownish/tan camo which looks great. The zipper is a RiRi zipper and zips like a breeze. I like the leather pull tab on it as well which is a perfect fit from a styling perspective and also functional since the zipper is small. It also has a double zipper, another detail I'm always looking for. Buttons are great (like the SS13 ventile Aircraft Jacket's if you're wondering) and the hood pulls are the typical Cabourn which is a great thing. The styling is just great too and you can remove the hood if you'd like, but either way the jacket looks great on. Overall this is a great piece. In fact I would say it's one of my absolute favorite Cabourn pieces. I would highly recommend this one if you like the look of the jacket at all.

 

[WDD_Blog]

Spent a few days in London last week and took the time to go for a look in Henrietta Street on Saturday. I.e. where the Cabourn shop is apparently going to appear shortly. Disappointingly there was no sign at all of it, and no sign of where it might appear. There were two or three locations advertised to let, one of which looked to me very like where the Fred Perry collaboration was introduced a couple of months back. It's a pretty short street, so the number of possibilities was not great.

Unless I hear or see differently, I'm strongly suspecting the shop isn't going to happen after all. Apart from that though, Henrietta Street didn't look like the "right" place for a Cabourn shop at all.

First photo showing the Perry X Cabourn (pop-up?) shop. The second showing the most likely Henrietta Street location, to let.

 

[cold war painter]



I must be looking at a different website! Where does it say donegal wool?

I was referred to the WW1 rollneck - it's in the description:

Based on a particular vintage naval sweater worn by British Submarine crew, which Nigel found with an anchor badge sewn on by seamen at the time. Replicating this, these roll neck sweaters sport a similar badge, making them highly collectable for AW14.

Slim fit, longer length
Deep single rib cuff, hem and roll neck
3-gauge Donegal wool
Made in Scotland

Fabric
100% British Wool

I went to the site on my laptop to look that up - it's even worse than on a phone!

 

[WDD_Blog]

Spent a few days in London last week and took the time to go for a look in Henrietta Street on Saturday. I.e. where the Cabourn shop is apparently going to appear shortly. Disappointingly there was no sign at all of it, and no sign of where it might appear. There were two or three locations advertised to let, one of which looked to me very like where the Fred Perry collaboration was introduced a couple of months back. It's a pretty short street, so the number of possibilities was not great.

Well, so much for being a clever investigator... I see on http://cabournlondonstore.com/ now that the address will be 28 Henrietta Street, and über-sleuth me was looking at 16, 6 doors along.

The point that there was no sign of it to be seen still stands though! Which is a little strange considering the website lists opening hours and all.

Or maybe I was just totally blind to it?