new to caring for leather shoes -- am I doing it right?

[moduliofcurves]

I started a new job six months ago, and I bought two pairs of AE shoes (chili Park Avenues, walnut Stands). I've been alternating between them on workdays.

After experimenting a little, here's what I've been doing to care for them:

* quick brush before and after wearing, shoe trees when not wearing

* once a week:
- wipe with damp cloth
- coat of saphir renovateur, wait a few minutes, brush
- coat of AE cream polish, wait half an hour, brush, buff

So, dumb question, does this routine sound ok, and is this how they're supposed to look? I've been worried that the amount of creasing on the vamp of the Park Avenues means I've been doing something wrong. And I can't tell if the color on the vamp of the same shoes looks a little weird.

Thanks!

 

[notdos]

Renovateur is really only needed for old, heavily worn shoes , that need to be “renovated”. Would never use it regularly.
Cream polish adds color, but not as much shine as a wax.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

I started a new job six months ago, and I bought two pairs of AE shoes (chili Park Avenues, walnut Stands). I've been alternating between them on workdays.

After experimenting a little, here's what I've been doing to care for them:

* quick brush before and after wearing, shoe trees when not wearing

* once a week:
- wipe with damp cloth
- coat of saphir renovateur, wait a few minutes, brush
- coat of AE cream polish, wait half an hour, brush, buff

So, dumb question, does this routine sound ok, and is this how they're supposed to look? I've been worried that the amount of creasing on the vamp of the Park Avenues means I've been doing something wrong. And I can't tell if the color on the vamp of the same shoes looks a little weird.

Thanks!

quite honestly you’re doing too much. Unless you’re abusing your shoes, a color match conditioning cream, Saphir will have it, applied once every 2-3 months is fine. Don’t over treat the leather!

As for the creases, that’s normal. All shoes will crease over the vamp and other stress points. Use cedar shoe trees after removing your shoes.

depending on what elements the soles are exposed to, you can also get a sole conditioner and apply it once every 1-2 months, but that’s as far as I’d go.

those are good looking shoes. As much as we dump on AE here, you have a couple of examples of what they still get right.

 

[breakaway01]

I just brush and use shoe trees. I only apply cream polish if the shoes get scuffed or the leather looks obviously dry. I might do this once a year or two. Every week is too much. No renovateur.

 

[dieworkwear]

Renovateur is a bit harsh. I imagine it's probably fine on Allen Edmonds shoes. It's not a good idea on "crust leather." Crust leather is an uncolored leather that's hand-colored at a workshop using dyes. When you use Renovateur on crust leather, it can strip the color off.

However, I don't believe that Allen Edmonds uses crust leather, so you're probably OK with using that conditioner on AE shoes.

In general, your routine sounds fine. As others have said, you might be doing this too often. I condition my shoes when they look dry, which is maybe once every year or two. Sometimes three, if I'm being honest. I think I polish my shoes about once a year.

If you are looking for a leather conditioner that's not Renovateur, try Allen Edmonds. Otherwise, I would just keep with the same routine and do it only when you think the shoes need that sort of care.

The creasing is normal and how shoes are supposed to look.

 

[moduliofcurves]

Thanks all, this is really useful! So I'll remove renovateur from my regular routine, and back off on polishing (maybe I'll start by trying once a month).

One more question. I've been thinking of starting to use wax polish. Does it sound ok to try doing a coat of cream polish and a coat of wax, once a month?

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Thanks all, this is really useful! So I'll remove renovateur from my regular routine, and back off on polishing (maybe I'll start by trying once a month).

One more question. I've been thinking of starting to use wax polish. Does it sound ok to try doing a coat of cream polish and a coat of wax, once a month?

again, I think you’re over doing it. I don’t normally use a wax polish. Wax does add an element of water repellency but it can also result in build up. I prefer a conditioning cream.

 

[bicycleradical]

However, I don't believe that Allen Edmonds uses crust leather, so you're probably OK with using that conditioner on AE shoes.

I have some AEs which did not react to the Renovateur well. They were the bourbon color and burnished, I believe. Applying the renovateur resulted in a bit of striping and some color loss. From what I recall, I was not alone in voicing this concern. People on this forum and others mentioned they had experience this phenomenon.

 

[moduliofcurves]

I have some AEs which did not react to the Renovateur well. They were the bourbon color and burnished, I believe. Applying the renovateur resulted in a bit of striping and some color loss. From what I recall, I was not alone in voicing this concern. People on this forum and others mentioned they had experience this phenomenon.

Oh interesting, I hadn't heard that. But google led me to https://putthison.com/the-problem-with-saphir-renovateur/ , which aligns with what you're saying. I'll be careful going forward. I actually noticed something like this, but I didn't attribute it to the renovateur. What did you do? Redye your shoes? Or did it get better as you applied polish over time?

 

[bicycleradical]

Oh interesting, I hadn't heard that. But google led me to https://putthison.com/the-problem-with-saphir-renovateur/ , which aligns with what you're saying. I'll be careful going forward. I actually noticed something like this, but I didn't attribute it to the renovateur. What did you do? Redye your shoes? Or did it get better as you applied polish over time?

I've polished the shoes with some Saphir creme polish and they have improved however the color is still somewhat uneven. To be fair, this is only really noticeable at night so it's not a big deal and it makes the shoes look a little rakish.

 

[dieworkwear]

Thanks all, this is really useful! So I'll remove renovateur from my regular routine, and back off on polishing (maybe I'll start by trying once a month).

One more question. I've been thinking of starting to use wax polish. Does it sound ok to try doing a coat of cream polish and a coat of wax, once a month?

Yes, wax polish on top of cream is fine. I suppose you can do it once a month, if you wanted to.

Cream polish has a higher concentration of pigments, so it's more likely to change teh color of your shoes over time. It also helps keep your shoes feeling supple. If you use cream polish on a regular basis, you sometimes don't even need to use a conditioner.

Wax adds a layer of water repellency and it leaves a higher shine than cream.

I never add just wax. I always do cream + wax on things such as boots and most lace-up shoes. But for something like loafers, where I don't want a high shine or water repellency, I just do cream.

If you use wax, the material will build up and every once in a while, you'll want to strip the wax off with something. I use Lexol. A few good wipes and you're good.

 

[bicycleradical]

My shoe care routine is pretty simple:

Brush before and after wearing
Polish if they begin looking a little dull or if they get scuffed
Wax if I want to add some shine

I once thought it was all much more complicated than this and eventually realized that more polishing, waxing, etc was unnecessary.

 

[moduliofcurves]

My shoe care routine is pretty simple:

Brush before and after wearing
Polish if they begin looking a little dull or if they get scuffed
Wax if I want to add some shine

I once thought it was all much more complicated than this and eventually realized that more polishing, waxing, etc was unnecessary.

well -- if that works, that's liberating! I'll try it.

 

[smittycl]

Thanks all, this is really useful! So I'll remove renovateur from my regular routine, and back off on polishing (maybe I'll start by trying once a month).

One more question. I've been thinking of starting to use wax polish. Does it sound ok to try doing a coat of cream polish and a coat of wax, once a month?

I polish my shoes maybe once a month but brush often. I use a cream polish for the deeper color and moisturizing of the leather, then add a thin coat of wax polish in the same color. Wax will give it a shine and a little water resistance. Agree with what everyone said about the renovateur, use it very sparingly.

 

[moduliofcurves]

Oh yeah, I remembered where I got the idea to use renovateur as part of the shoeshine: