Need tailor with keen eye for NYC MTM / Bespoke Trousers

[Allwhitebuffies]

Hi all,

I am looking to buy maybe 3-4 pairs of trousers for no more than $350 a pair. I have very large hips, and a large seat (about 6 feet 200 lbs), and would truly appreciate a tailor who is able to make some trousers that can accommodate this weird body type. I want the tailor to be able to guide me in what he thinks is best for my body. I do not want any of the new slim fit style pants with a lowrise, but also don't want super baggy trousers. I am thinking something in the middle with a waist that rests on my hips.

I already know of; Mr Ned, Ls Mens, Ercole, Greenfield and wonder who else i should put on the list, and which one of these your would recommend to guide clients who dont know exactly what they need / want keeping in mind I will use basic navy blue and gray fabrics.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Sam H]

I like Mr. Ned's. I really want to get some custom trousers myself. I am not even hard to fit, but the two pairs of custom trousers I own are part of a tuxedo and part of a suit respectively, from Ned's, and it's just so impressively better, like wearing pants for the first time. I have no other baseline to compare to, but I like Mr Ned's work. I believe he does minimums of 2 for trousers (don't quote me on that) but they are budget friendly. Also, he is not going to try and give you tight high-rise trousers. If you want something like that he will do it but he will straight up tell you he thinks it looks bad (because it does look bad) so don't worry about that, you are on the same page as he is. The suit trousers I have from him all fit very cleanly through the leg so they are no baggy nor are they skintight, exactly what it sounds like you are looking for and the most reasonable styling in general.

One thing to note is that I am on the skinnier side but I still have a large-ish seat from leg day workouts.

 

[Allwhitebuffies]

Hey, thanks. that sounds pretty good. maybe i will try mr. ned and a few of the others. any recomendation on fabric, i am used to a canali type fabric in medium and charcol gray.

 

[IronStyle]

I'm happy to share insights here as I exclusively use Mr Ned's for custom pants (just did another purchase a few months back and brings me up to 6 pairs total). I've only experienced him and none others so can't comment on that, but selected him based on all the online reviews out there. As you can imagine based on the number of pairs I own, I'm very happy with them.

I went to him originally because I can't fit in anything OTR in any large department store including Nordstroms, etc. I'm a tough fit given my athletic build and larger thighs/butt and slimmer waist. I'm 6'1 and around 240ish and before Neds I've worn balloon pants with no shape at all from men's warehouse. The closest I got at Nordstroms was a pair I liked until the tailor was doing measurements and said even with the best fitting pair that they would need to be recut given the drop in my waist required. Just sharing that to note my troubles in finding properly fitting trousers.

Although I'm on the younger side, I dress quite traditionally and despise the slim fittings, specially at my build and size. I wear my pants at the natural waist and cuff them to stay within my traditional sensibilities. My build and ample rear makes me look like I have a wedgie in any ill-fitting dress pants, and he made it disappear and my shape is accentuated without any pulling or tightness.

His pants start at 250 for base fabrics from available bolts and go up from there. To me they are very nice and all my orders were from that level (I'm not wearing $3k suits so I don't have high bespoke standards). I looked at Loro Piana pair for 350 because they were in a specific shade I had in mind but didn't love them enough to try. There are endless books on hand but never looked within because I'm happy with my 250 per pair budget. He also only will do 2 pairs at a time so that's the minimum. Would've done one pair at the beginning but those are his rules.

He has no problem voicing his opinion and while at first was a bit abrasive, I now enjoy it and he's very good at his job. I stressed no slim fashion pants and he gets it.

Here are a few fit pics (the first has wrinkles from sitting and daily use but is not from fabric pulling at all, and second has terrible lighting but you can see the silhouette). Look at the way the pockets stay flat and drapes down without interruption.

I've only bought pants from him because I don't need to wear suits for work in my business casual world but feeling I'm about to need one this year and plan to visit him for that (especially as I've now nailed down my pants fit).

Happy to answer any questions either here or PM.

 

[Allwhitebuffies]

Damn you sold me man. i am very similar, in that i am younger but dont want the super slim stuff, and stil want cuffs. i want to be in between the 60 year olds you see in huge pinstripe suits and gucci loafers and the \25 year olds in skin tight suits. your pants look pretty much how i want mine to look.i wiill definitely go there over the next two weeks and pick up two pair to start. what is his time frame for pants usually?

 

[IronStyle]



Damn you sold me man. i am very similar, in that i am younger but dont want the super slim stuff, and stil want cuffs. i want to be in between the 60 year olds you see in huge pinstripe suits and gucci loafers and the \25 year olds in skin tight suits. your pants look pretty much how i want mine to look.i wiill definitely go there over the next two weeks and pick up two pair to start. what is his time frame for pants usually?

Happy to help and you'll be pleased. Don't be afraid to ask questions as he is not only honest and direct but knows all his bolt fabrics well. I'm not the most fabric literate but conveyed what colors, weights, etc I was looking for and he helped narrow down options, share what was different about each one and such.

Trip 1 is picking the fabric and sharing the style (flat, pleats, any special pocket requests). Trip 2 is 2 weeks later where you try them on, they are not yet hemmed so he makes marks for rear, thigh, waist, and length (share your cuff request then). Mine are always 1.75" so you can see the pics against my height for an idea. Trip 3 is 1-2 weeks later to pick up. I've had adjustments made then if length isn't what I'm looking for or concerns about waist measurement and he is more than accommodating for tweaking (in which case would cause another week but if it's just length they've done that within minutes for me before).

If you have a specific time by when you need them, he may be able to work each edit into 1 week but 2 would I think be a non-rush request. Given my schedule I only go to him on saturdays so I've had to work only in full week increments.