MTM Suit Critique

[Macallan9]

Im about to place another order but would like help from the forum in nitpicking all the little details that could be improved.

Some thoughts and questions:

1. Sleeves will need to be shortened to show cuff
2. I asked the tailor for very very little padding, and he said he made it as light as possible but it would not sit well if he took off any more. Has anyone heard this before? Any truth to it?
3. The back of the pants look terrible. SW&D posters are probably admiring the honeycombing. How can this be fixed?

No mercy, please. No detail too insignificant.

 

[HomerJ]

That is a very short jacket..

 

[kuwisdelu]

Looks like you have a donut in your left back pocket. No idea how to fix it, though.

But yeah, lengthen the jacket about 1 - 2 inches, and shorten the sleeves by the same.

Shoulders look okay to me.

Your left sleeve looks good, but the pitch on the right one looks off. Are you holding both arms at the same angle and how you naturally let them hang?

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]

It need to be at least an inch longer.


(...must resist making comment about you having heard that phrase before...)

 

[dfischer1]

Fix the blades -- especially on the right.

DF

 

[RUSSBHEEZ]

Overall fit is off, jacket length being the most obvious(jacket seems to be also bunching in the front). Tailor may be able to correct.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Macallan9

1. Sleeves will need to be shortened to show cuff
2. I asked the tailor for very very little padding, and he said he made it as light as possible but it would not sit well if he took off any more. Has anyone heard this before? Any truth to it?
3. The back of the pants look terrible. SW&D posters are probably admiring the honeycombing. How can this be fixed?

In response to #2: yes. Not every maker is used to making a softer jacket. If his equipment, staff, and patterns are geared toward stiffer construction, there's only so much that can be changed. If you swapped out the guts of a hard jacket for a soft jacket, but retained the hard jacket's original shell, you'd get a messed up looking jacket (lots of excess fabric, bunching, and unattractive draping).

In response to #3: the pants look way too tight across your ass. It's not pleasant. If you increase the meaurement across you rear, the pants won't grip so tightly there, and will drape much more cleanly.

I would also lengthen the jacket. There is arguably a range for acceptable jacket length, but this is clearly outside that range: way too much of your rear-end is visible. The waist suppression is too severe: you can tell by lookin at the diagonal pulling from the buttoning point and the skin-tight fit across your lower back.

Perhaps re-think how soft you've asked them to make the shoulders. The strong convex curvature that abruptly ends at the collar is very inelegant. It would be better to have a more built-up shoulder and a less unnaturally convex shoulder line.

 

[mimile]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

In response to #2: yes. Not every maker is used to making a softer jacket. If his equipment, staff, and patterns are geared toward stiffer construction, there's only so much that can be changed. If you swapped out the guts of a hard jacket for a soft jacket, but retained the hard jacket's original shell, you'd get a messed up looking jacket (lots of excess fabric, bunching, and unattractive draping).

In response to #3: the pants look way too tight across your ass. It's not pleasant. If you increase the meaurement across you rear, the pants won't grip so tightly there, and will drape much more cleanly.

I would also lengthen the jacket. There is arguably a range for acceptable jacket length, but this is clearly outside that range: way too much of your rear-end is visible. The waist suppression is too severe: you can tell by lookin at the diagonal pulling from the buttoning point and the skin-tight fit across your lower back.

Perhaps re-think how soft you've asked them to make the shoulders. The strong convex curvature that abruptly ends at the collar is very inelegant. It would be better to have a more built-up shoulder and a less unnaturally convex shoulder line.

+1 to what Mafoo answered. Also reconsider sleeve length. Shorten them at least 3-4 cm.

 

[Bellum]

No mercy? Frankly this is example 20981 on styleforum of bad MTM. If you had gone RTW it would at least be wearable. This forum needs a public service announcement regarding MTM.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Bellum

No mercy? Frankly this is example 20981 on styleforum of bad MTM. If you had gone RTW it would at least be wearable. This forum needs a public service announcement regarding MTM.

I don't think MTM itself is the problem. Ninety percent of the time we see disastrous MTM here it's because it was done remote or because the customer used the opportunity to play designer. You can't have an online MTM shop shorten a jacket by five inches and get Thom Browne out of it.

 

[mikej77]

Clean your room.

 

[Bellum]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I don't think MTM itself is the problem. Ninety percent of the time we see disastrous MTM here it's because it was done remote or because the customer used to opportunity to play designer. You can't have an online MTM shop shorten a jacket by five inches and get Thom Browne out of it.

That goes without saying. MTM allows for poor decisions and the danger of having a little bit of knowledge.

 

[Macallan9]

Originally Posted by RUSSBHEEZ

Overall fit is off, jacket length being the most obvious(jacket seems to be also bunching in the front). Tailor may be able to correct.

"Fit is off" is rather vague, and "Tailor may be able to correct" is even less useful if I cant give him direction, no?

Originally Posted by mafoofan

In response to #2: yes. Not every maker is used to making a softer jacket. If his equipment, staff, and patterns are geared toward stiffer construction, there's only so much that can be changed. If you swapped out the guts of a hard jacket for a soft jacket, but retained the hard jacket's original shell, you'd get a messed up looking jacket (lots of excess fabric, bunching, and unattractive draping).

In response to #3: the pants look way too tight across your ass. It's not pleasant. If you increase the meaurement across you rear, the pants won't grip so tightly there, and will drape much more cleanly.

I would also lengthen the jacket. There is arguably a range for acceptable jacket length, but this is clearly outside that range: way too much of your rear-end is visible. The waist suppression is too severe: you can tell by lookin at the diagonal pulling from the buttoning point and the skin-tight fit across your lower back.

Perhaps re-think how soft you've asked them to make the shoulders. The strong convex curvature that abruptly ends at the collar is very inelegant. It would be better to have a more built-up shoulder and a less unnaturally convex shoulder line.

Thanks, mafoo. Exactly what I needed.

Originally Posted by Bellum

No mercy? Frankly this is example 20981 on styleforum of bad MTM. If you had gone RTW it would at least be wearable. This forum needs a public service announcement regarding MTM.

This is a first attempt MTM. Ill correct from here, the second will be better, the third closer to perfect. What would be the point of always having "wearable"? I'd like perfect. You don't seem to grasp that when someone posts a MTM, it's going to be bad because of human error. The people with well done MTMs dont need input anymore.

Originally Posted by mikej77

Clean your room.

Im in the process of moving, but thanks for your input.

 

[bowtielover]

The bosy of the jacket is way too short, everything else looks good but you either need a long instead of a regualr or a regular instead of a short. You want the tips of your fingers to touch or come close to the bottom of the jacket.

 

[Douglas]

Waist seems overly suppressed. Looks a little too form-fitting from the back, and pulls in front.

As others have noted, obviously the jacket is very short. Strangely, it looks shorter in back than in front.

Yes, pants are a disaster, but I don't know what to do about them.

As you noted, sleeves are too long.

Blades are strange - might be a result of you asking to remove a lot of padding, but still they ought to be able to do better than this, I would think.