Morning Dress Rule

[rsum]

Hello everyone, I've started compiling a list of morning dress code rules similar to my white tie list as I'm having trouble finding a single handbook online. Most blogs have the gist of it right but still have an error here and there in the examples. That being said, I've decided to compile my own list of morning dress rules and I'm wondering if anyone can contribute to them?

- Waist coat: Double or single breasted. (Preferably double in my opinion). Should cover trouser waist. Preferred color is grey, buff, or blue. (Pastel colors)
- Coat: Hook closure. Length should be to the back of knees.
- Trousers: Cashmere stripes. This can be either grey and black to contrast the jacket. Some people in more formal situations have trousers that match the coat in all black. Should be high waisted.
- Tie: Silver and black tie or ascot for wedding. Other colors are fine. Pastels may be best.
- Shirt: White pull down collar. Base shirt can be colored such as blue and white striped.
- Shoes: Oxfords preferred. Patent is not required.

Perhaps the best modern example I can find. Although the waist coats may be too long and the suits look a bit blue.

Again, anything that can be added is much appreciated. Either general or more technical rules. Thank you!

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

I never thought I'd say this, but Sven Rafael Schneider is your best bet, as he has already written several such guides. He's a giant stickler for the rules re: clothing that no one actually wears anymore, and will criticize any perceived deviation with a very sassy "That's just wrong and tacky and just looks plain bad and is just so wrong and awful!" in his ambiguous accent (half Bavaria, half Duluth). Go check out his blog (Gentleman's Gazette); just try not to come out dressed like a Boardwalk Empire cosplayer.

 

[rsum]

I never thought I'd say this, but Sven Rafael Schneider is your best bet, as he has already written several such guides. He's a giant stickler for the rules re: clothing that no one actually wears anymore, and will criticize any perceived deviation with a very sassy "That's just wrong and tacky and just looks plain bad and is just so wrong and awful!" in his ambiguous accent (half Bavaria, half Duluth). Go check out his blog (Gentleman's Gazette); just try not to come out dressed like a Boardwalk Empire cosplayer.

Hahaha! I've watched his content multiple times. He starts off by saying there are hundreds of more things he could go into but he's going to keep it to the main points for the sake of his videos. That being said, I think I highlighted the main points and I'm looking for what could ever be those 100 or more points? LOL...

Btw, whats wrong with Sven? Is he right on his thoughts but also a little too far out there?

 

[comrade]

The internet is your friend. See below for numerous pictures of contemporary
versions of Morning Dress:

ede and ravenscroft morning coat

Also, you seem obsessed with rules and lists. Style involves a degree
of personalization, and dare I say, taste. If you rely too much on
the former and lack the latter you'll end up looking like the two stiffs
you use in your example. They look like their clothes were "issued"
by the "People'Clothing Commisariat/ Morning Dress Division " in the
old Soviet bloc.

 

[clarkeaubry]

This is amazing, I've nothing to add! It reminded me of the rules of dress in the movie Kingsman. You call it the morning dress rule, but my husband only looks like this during important events or at our wedding. Then I chose an outfit quickly thanks to my knowledge of the average cost of a wedding dress. But my lover is so mean that for two weeks he couldn't choose the right cufflinks. Kingsman said : "Manners are the man's face," but that's obviously not true of everyone.

 

[rjc149]

Btw, whats wrong with Sven? Is he right on his thoughts but also a little too far out there?

Sven’s redeeming quality is his ability to laugh at himself and not take anything too seriously. Hence, I find his enthusiasm for totally obsolete, bygone dress codes to be fun and interesting as a matter of history. 99% of men on earth today could live 99 lifetimes without ever attending a morning dress event. Those who did could probably get away with a good dark suit.

 

[schraiber]

Sven’s redeeming quality is his ability to laugh at himself and not take anything too seriously. Hence, I find his enthusiasm for totally obsolete, bygone dress codes to be fun and interesting as a matter of history. 99% of men on earth today could live 99 lifetimes without ever attending a morning dress event. Those who did could probably get away with a good dark suit.

I was under the impression he goes by Rafael rather than Sven?

 

[rjc149]

I was under the impression he goes by Rafael rather than Sven?

Haha, maybe. I've heard him called "Sven Rafael" as a double-barrelled name.

 

[R.O. Thornhill]

A few thoughts on this
1. Never wear matching black trousers. You may wear a three piece morning suit in grey, and the prince of wales often does for Ascot; but there is no acceptable use for black trousers. The photos you posted are very questionable
2. Houndstooth trousers are an unusual but acceptable alternative to cashmere stripe. Never cuffs
3. Ideally the shirt will have a stiff, detachable collar. Always turndown
4. Polished black oxfords or balmoral boots; never patent
5. I would not wear an ascot, always a ‘wedding tie’ though regimental ‘ school also ok. And morning dress is probably the only time I would wear a tie pin
6. Marcella slips are a nice touch with the waistcoat; but require a bespoke waistcoat (Steed did a nice one for me a few years back)
7. Top hat should match your coat

 

[poorsod]

A few thoughts on this
1. Never wear matching black trousers. You may wear a three piece morning suit in grey, and the prince of wales often does for Ascot; but there is no acceptable use for black trousers. The photos you posted are very questionable

Agreed. Here is a picture ofRubinacci in a gray morning dress but it’s the closest one should get to matching the coat and the trousers.

2. Houndstooth trousers are an unusual but acceptable alternative to cashmere stripe. Never cuffs

I prefer cashmere stripes because I think they elongate the leg line.

Also i prefer a high DB vest because that too elongates the leg line. I prefer the British style DB vest. The Italian versions I’ve seen seem to cover too much shirt.

 

[JJ Katz]

- Waist coat: Double or single breasted. (Preferably double in my opinion). Should cover trouser waist. Preferred color is grey, buff, or blue. (Pastel colors)
- Coat: Hook closure. Length should be to the back of knees.
- Trousers: Cashmere stripes. This can be either grey and black to contrast the jacket. Some people in more formal situations have trousers that match the coat in all black. Should be high waisted.
- Tie: Silver and black tie or ascot for wedding. Other colors are fine. Pastels may be best.
- Shirt: White pull down collar. Base shirt can be colored such as blue and white striped.
- Shoes: Oxfords preferred. Patent is not required.

I think the 'best' waistcoat colour depends on the occasion. As far as I can tell, Morning Dress is presently worn: a) at rather formal weddings (at least in the UK); b) in the Royal Enclosure (SP?) at Ascot; c) at certain British events connected to the Crown; d) by some enthusiasts at events like the NYC Easter Parade, etc. I am happy to read about others...
One issue with rules is that they change, so what would be considered acceptable or even elegant at a wedding in the 1990s, say, is not the same as when people wore morning coats to meet their mother in law for lunch at the Ritz or go to church, etc...

FWIW, there is a broad selection of trouser and waistcoat fabrics that were commonly and elegantly worn when morning dress wasn't an aberration. Happy to go into a bit more detail, if you'd like.

I think pastel ties rarely look good, I would stick with "wedding" or just dark, plain(ish) colours in this case.

A few thoughts on this
1. Never wear matching black trousers. You may wear a three piece morning suit in grey, and the prince of wales often does for Ascot; but there is no acceptable use for black trousers. The photos you posted are very questionable
2. Houndstooth trousers are an unusual but acceptable alternative to cashmere stripe. Never cuffs
3. Ideally the shirt will have a stiff, detachable collar. Always turndown
4. Polished black oxfords or balmoral boots; never patent
5. I would not wear an ascot, always a ‘wedding tie’ though regimental ‘ school also ok. And morning dress is probably the only time I would wear a tie pin
6. Marcella slips are a nice touch with the waistcoat; but require a bespoke waistcoat (Steed did a nice one for me a few years back)
7. Top hat should match your coat

1) Again, remembering that 'rules' is perhaps not the best lexical choice for this, I would agree that solid black trews with morning dress are a no-no
3) Many brits of the ilk that doesn't think morning dress is completely ridiculous or obsolete will tend to favour stiff collars. In my not inconsiderable experience, among people who actually own and WEAR morning dress, the feeling is not as trenchant especially as, in turn-downs, the difference between stiff/detachable and a decently made attached collar is pretty marginal.