Mod to Suedehead

[Bela Kun]

Were chino trousers without permanent crease ever worn by skinheads back in the day?

Got a pair of nice off-white chinos today. The cut, details and the feel of the fabric somewhat resemble the Brooks Brothers milano fit 'sta-prest' - but no crease.

Edit: Just ironed creases into them. Not 'perfect, but should suffice for tonight. I'll probably get them perma creased at the alterations service/dry cleaners - they must have some steam press machine that can do that?

 

[Ivyskin89]

who can tell the difference between this one...


....And that one from Uniqlo ?


Yes, the price of course !

We have a high roll collar on our shirts, you won't find that on the Uniqlo. We have full box pleat down the back. We offer life time guarantee, Uniqlo does not. We use cotton woven in Japan. The team that makes these shirts has been making them in the same factory in Massachusetts since the 60's and I've personally met with them.

I would say you could have seen any collegiate in the 60's wearing a tartan button down like that. Just because it's tartan doesn't make it lumberjack. This shirt is for someone who appreciates quality and detail. The person who buys this is most likely going to have it for the rest of their life.

We are luxury clothing brand with an edge. I look forward to showing you guys more to come. We sell our clothing in Bobby From Boston. Hope you get a chance to check it out if you come to MA.

 

[Bela Kun]

This is a very (& too) easy answer i was waiting for. Anyway both are horrid. Lumberjack is back. And i wouldn't pay 150 dollars for a shirt, even made by a 'USA craftsman' who is most probably a chinese immigrant BTW

You're really offending my petit bourgeois sensibilities here, Clouseau. I want my shirts produced 'ethically' and traded 'fairly' with 'craftsmen' who get a 'fair day's pay for a fair day's work'.

 

[vendetta69]

There's a few issues with these shirts imo. I'm sure the quality's top and they're 100% cotton (bastard to iron) but for me the details are wrong especially the collar and the cut.
The collar on the tartan doesn't so much roll as gape, and the position of the second button is too low, which is a common gripe of mine. So the collar doesn't work for me, looks too high with no roll.I like the collar on the blue one...
The detailing of the tartan where it meets the back yoke around the pleat is a bit messy.The arms don't look to be neatly cut, and it seems that both shirts may have been nipped in at the back for the photies.
The cut of both shirts look to be more of a comfort fit as opposed to sharp (maybe that's a yank thing). Aye i can bring 'em to a tailor, but that won't sort the collar and they already cost 98 quid!
So for people outside the U.S it's a financial lemon. I can get a top quality, italian made,100% cotton shirt with a choice of the details i want in a number of limited styles and runs for around 55-60 quid. The postage is cheaper and there's no hidden customs costs. That's only one of the options i have that are cheaper, faster and more likely to deliver me a shirt of equal or better quality than yours with the details i want.
I don't dislike your shirts, the materials look very good and the collar on the blue one looks sound, but the cost is prohibitive. If i'm paying out that much for a shirt i'd be expecting it to be something more...

 

[vendetta69]

You should read "Rivethead" Bela Kun

 

[Inks]

I'm a bit of an old skinflint. But I still buy new USA made BDs. The thing is, they may be new and in the original packaging, but they were made 35-50 years ago.
As much as I'd like to have one of IvySkin's handmade Beantown dickie-dirts, there are just too many NOS original 'union made' shirts still out there if you know where to dig.
I've picked up pleated and hooped BDs in madras and Oxford fabric with a perfect collar-roll for next to f**k all.
They may well smell of cig smoke. Not because of the seller's house, but probably because the old Myrtle knocking them out in the factory in Kentucky in '67 had an unfiltered Lucky Strike in her gob as she sat at the sewing machine.
Sometimes I've thought, 'I must let the guys and gals on the MtS forum know about this find' when I've found a job-lot of original shirts going for a song. Other times I've been, 'F**k that, I'm 'avin all of these'
$150 USD is a bit too steep for me. I pay $23/£15 max. Not because I'm that much of a tight-arse. It's because anything bought from the US over £15 is subject to import tax, and I've paid the taxman more than my fair share of money already.
Anyway, I do like quite a lot of your stuff there IvySkin, and I respect what you're doing. Maybe next time I'm in Mass I'll treat myself to one of your garms.
But for now, I'll stick to being tighter than an otter's pocket.

 

[Ivyskin89]

There's a few issues with these shirts imo. I'm sure the quality's top and they're 100% cotton (bastard to iron) but for me the details are wrong especially the collar and the cut.
The collar on the tartan doesn't so much roll as gape, and the position of the second button is too low, which is a common gripe of mine. So the collar doesn't work for me, looks too high with no roll.I like the collar on the blue one...
The detailing of the tartan where it meets the back yoke around the pleat is a bit messy.The arms don't look to be neatly cut, and it seems that both shirts may have been nipped in at the back for the photies.
The cut of both shirts look to be more of a comfort fit as opposed to sharp (maybe that's a yank thing). Aye i can bring 'em to a tailor, but that won't sort the collar and they already cost 98 quid!
So for people outside the U.S it's a financial lemon. I can get a top quality, italian made,100% cotton shirt with a choice of the details i want in a number of limited styles and runs for around 55-60 quid. The postage is cheaper and there's no hidden customs costs. That's only one of the options i have that are cheaper, faster and more likely to deliver me a shirt of equal or better quality than yours with the details i want.
I don't dislike your shirts, the materials look very good and the collar on the blue one looks sound, but the cost is prohibitive. If i'm paying out that much for a shirt i'd be expecting it to be something more...

We offer free international shipping. Our shirts come in traditional fit, and slim fit. Slim fit, is traditional with darts. We will even pay the tailoring bill if you get alterations done. Also, it's guaranteed. So, if you don't like it, return it! We'll refund your money. Why don't you try one out before you make a final judgement.

BTW the blue one has the same collar. Sometimes you have to wear it few times before the fabric loosens up and lets the collar roll more.

 

[Ivyskin89]

I'm a bit of an old skinflint. But I still buy new USA made BDs. The thing is, they may be new and in the original packaging, but they were made 35-50 years ago.
As much as I'd like to have one of IvySkin's handmade Beantown dickie-dirts, there are just too many NOS original 'union made' shirts still out there if you know where to dig.
I've picked up pleated and hooped BDs in madras and Oxford fabric with a perfect collar-roll for next to f**k all.
They may well smell of cig smoke. Not because of the seller's house, but probably because the old Myrtle knocking them out in the factory in Kentucky in '67 had an unfiltered Lucky Strike in her gob as she sat at the sewing machine.
Sometimes I've thought, 'I must let the guys and gals on the MtS forum know about this find' when I've found a job-lot of original shirts going for a song. Other times I've been, 'F**k that, I'm 'avin all of these'
$150 USD is a bit too steep for me. I pay $23/£15 max. Not because I'm that much of a tight-arse. It's because anything bought from the US over £15 is subject to import tax, and I've paid the taxman more than my fair share of money already.
Anyway, I do like quite a lot of your stuff there IvySkin, and I respect what you're doing. Maybe next time I'm in Mass I'll treat myself to one of your garms.
But for now, I'll stick to being tighter than an otter's pocket.

Don't get me wrong. I have loads of vintage shirts, and yes they're less expensive. But these shirts won't be around forever, and we need this heritage garment to live on. It's like art for me. I see some fabrics that I feel need to be made into shirts, so I do it. In the future we will most certainly be offering a wide range of collars, fits, cuffs, and other details to choose from. We have 60's Brooks Brothers, and Ben Sherman shirts that we plan to use for inspiration as we continue. I appreciate all the suggestions and critiquing, because at the end of the day, this is for you guys. Whatever I can do to help people get the button down they really want.

Like I've said before, we cover the full cost of shipping anywhere in the world, and we will pay for any alterations, or seam repairs. If you are not completely satisfied with our garment, please return for full refund. Thanks for the support.

 

[Man-of-Mystery]



Were chino trousers without permanent crease ever worn by skinheads back in the day?

No.

But if you like them and they look good on you, wear them!

 

[Man-of-Mystery]



You're really offending my petit bourgeois sensibilities...

 

[Clouseau]

The main difference for me is the collar roll. One is too big and the other too small. I like the pattern check but I wouldn't buy either whatever the cost.

Well Bob, of course i had noticed the collar difference too. What i wanted to point out was the pattern/color/ similarity despite the huge cost difference.

Now, maybe i'm a bit old fashioned but is it natural that this thread becomes an online selling place where petty salesman advertise their stuff ?
(which i personally find terrible, but this is personal preference)

Save the sales pitch !

I think i never paid more than 50 euros for a shirt. For that price i can have a quality MTM Italian or French shirt made to my specifications, or find a brand-name one during the sales.
I usually buy cheaper ones during the sales, and always find nice stuff.

 

[vendetta69]

Well Bob, of course i had noticed the collar difference too. What i wanted to point out was the pattern/color/ similarity despite the huge cost difference.

Now, maybe i'm a bit old fashioned but is it natural that this thread becomes an online selling place where petty salesman advertise their stuff ?
(which i personally find terrible, but this is personal preference)

Save the sales pitch !

I think i never paid more than 50 euros for a shirt. For that price i can have a quality MTM Italian or French shirt made to my specifications, or find a brand-name one during the sales.
I usually buy cheaper ones during the sales, and always find nice stuff.

Je suis d'accord Clouseau, très bien mis...

The most i've paid is 65 euros. Mostly i'm picking them up for around 20 -30 quid, seconds, unwanted, sales etc. At that price i can afford to get them altered as well.
I appreciate what Ivy's trying to do with his branding etc, i'm just not sure that people on here are his target group for selling to.

If i was you Ivy i'd be perfecting them there button downs and be looking to sell them wholesale to shops like John Lewis and other classic "ivy" outlets. Marketing them to tight arses like me is a waste of your time and energy imo.
It's a very crowded market mate.
Now, about them job-lots of shirts Inks...

 

[covskin]



We offer free international shipping. Our shirts come in traditional fit, and slim fit. Slim fit, is traditional with darts. We will even pay the tailoring bill if you get alterations done. Also, it's guaranteed. So, if you don't like it, return it! We'll refund your money. Why don't you try one out before you make a final judgement.

Google 'incoterms'. Free international shipping is great but unless your delivery terms are DDP (delivered duty paid) then your customer has to pay customs duty, value added tax/sales tax and perhaps an administration fee - on top of what you charge - to import the item into their country. Seems to me you are delivering DDU (delivered duty unpaid) at the moment, none of the above costs are included in your price so any return would be far from cost-neutral so not as risk-free to the customer as you might think. To deliver DDP (delivered duty paid) would be a massive pain *********** though - you need to open accounts with the customs authorities of every country you sell into then do their calculations yourself - perhaps best achieved by selling on some platform like Amazon who have themselves only recently worked all this **** out. Or maybe your international shipper can offer you this service?

 

[The Syllabus]

As someone who's been hammered no end of times by uk customs, the best way round it is either proxy or get said company to take all tags off and wrap in a plain packaging with gift wrote on the purchased garment. If you can't implement either method, forget it. Not worth the hassle or fine!

 

[Ivyskin89]

Google 'incoterms'. Free international shipping is great but unless your delivery terms are DDP (delivered duty paid) then your customer has to pay customs duty, value added tax/sales tax and perhaps an administration fee - on top of what you charge - to import the item into their country. Seems to me you are delivering DDU (delivered duty unpaid) at the moment, none of the above costs are included in your price so any return would be far from cost-neutral so not as risk-free to the customer as you might think. To deliver DDP (delivered duty paid) would be a massive pain *********** though - you need to open accounts with the customs authorities of every country you sell into then do their calculations yourself - perhaps best achieved by selling on some platform like Amazon who have themselves only recently worked all this **** out. Or maybe your international shipper can offer you this service?

I've shipped to Europe and Asia, never had a problem.