Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread

[LuxireStudio]

Grandi and Rubinelli Sky Blue Plain

* Milano NOBD-2 Collar.
* One Button Rounded Cuff.
* No Pleat.
* 100% Cotton.
* No Dart.
* No Pocket.
* No Placket.
* White MOP Buttons.
* Split Yoke.
* V Shape Clip Gusset.
* Boat Curve Bottom.

Spoiler: Spoiler

 

[jim8680]

Thanks for the thoughts. The lapel width is an inch larger than was requested. Feels a bit like I'm traveling to Italy with the pitti peacocks!

I am curious if securing a good fit is even possible. I thought duplicating an existing jacket would be simpler than it seems. We'll see what the luxire team's comments are (I have emailed them).

I have a Savile Row Bespoke Suit. I spent the money because I wanted Luxire to replicate it like they did wonderfully with my Turbull & Asser Shirts... However, I am discouraged after seeing the discrepancy in your lapels. I will follow to see how the issue is resolved. Their customer service with my shirts has been fantastic.

 

[LuxireStudio]

Dugdale Black Grey Houndstooth

* Inverted Front Pleat.
* Front Jetted Pocket.
* Button Style Fly.
* Two Button Extra Long Square Closure.
* Two Rear Pockets With Triangular Flap.
* No Lining.
* Horn Button.

Spoiler: Spoiler

 

[FredAstaire1899]

Do not recollect seeing any fabric without the synthetic blend.

Any reason for the aversion to synthetics? Just trying to understand and may be put forth solutions. It can be a good discussion.

I agree, it's a good discussion. Let me first say that I have never tried any of the synthetic or technical fabrics available at Luxire. The items with some synthetic components including linings, Pantherella cotton blend socks and any trouser trimmings have always been good quality and never caused any issues.

My primary concern with synthetics is the skin (rash and irritation) and Asthma reactions I have had to them, particularly during my school days. Granted, this was with very high or 100% synthetics, likely of poor quality and other chemical additions (dying agents?) possibly adding to the problem. I was so pleased when I was tall enough to wear Dads worn out 100% wool grey bespoke pants to school.

In more recent years, I have had Zegna jeans with 2% elastane and they wore hotter and were never as smooth as their 100% cotton equivalents (same size and block). The 100% poly sport sport shirts have been problematic as well. I can wear synthetic linings without any issue. It should also be said that some studies have shown skin irritation due to cloth is more to do with micron count than synthetic vs natural. I find cheap cottons and wools irritating as well. In the case of Asthma, it can be loose strands as well - present on the finest quality cashmere.

A secondary concern is their lustre. I have not seen synthetic/poly fabrics that match the variation under light produced by beautiful natural fabrics like cashmere, Alumo poplins, high super counts wools, etc.

To make explicit, I'm probably in a small percentage for which the disadvantages of synthetics outweigh their positives. I'm also not trying to discourage others from them, as I understand many of their benefits. I work in a casual office and wear mostly chinos, and some technology that makes them last longer and stay crease resistant is of very high interest. I'll likely always be apprehensive about a cotton/poly blend, but things the could alleviate my concerns would be a lower amount of poly, a high quality mill, and potentially some dermatological endorsement. A sample of fabric would help, but the ultimate test is the wear.

 

[emptym]

We are working with Schoeller and Mectex to bring you the right technical fabric.

There are too many options though. what is it that you are looking for?

The major categories are:
1. Weight: Light (almost like a heavy shirt), medium (something like the Shakespeare line of Brisbane Moss chinos), heavy (read mid-heavy jeans 13 Oz).
2. Stretch: 2-way or 4-way
3. Water-resistant
4. Wind resistance
5. Presence of nylon for strength
6. Cotton rich or poly-nylon rich
7. Any other aspect.

Then, in colors, we are looking at: Black, navy, grey, stone, khaki, military green. If any other needed, please voice.

My preference would be for
- Stone or khaki, both with a grayish cast rather than a yellow or red one. Beige (which would be darker than stone and lighter than khaki and have a grayish cast) would be good too imo.
- light or medium weight
- either kind of stretch
- with or without wind and water resistance
- nylon is preferable for the lightweight ones since nylon, as mentioned, is great for strength, and it shouldn't add much warmth, like polyester would (but sometimes warmth is good)
- cotton- or wool-rich (at least 35%). Pure synthetic would be OK for camping, but not urban wear imo.

Do technical fabrics always have to contain synthetic? Do various modern weaves of pure cotton and wool count?

I think purely natural-fiber fabrics could be "technical" if they've been altered in some way, like by a chemical coating (Epic's silicone-encapsulated cotton, for example, or even non-iron 100% cotton shirts).

You made some really good points in your recent post. I have asthma too, but mild and only recently developed. I like technical clothes for travel and/or commuting in non-ideal weather conditions (high heat, rain, etc.). The one thing I found strange in your post was that you find pants with 2% elastane to be warmer than 100% cotton ones. I have a few pairs of each type and have never noticed any difference in warmth. I wonder if the weave of the stretch ones is a bit tighter.

Awesome! Seeing as two-way stretch is already a big help by itself, number one priority for me is hand-feel and durability, so cotton-rich with some nylon for strength is usually a winner. All weights are useful. A tight weave with some wind-resistance as a result also sounds good.

I agree. I had some very lightweight cotton/nylon/elastane pants from Banana Republic, probably a poplin weave, bought in 2000, and they were great for both really hot, humid weather and cooler, windier temps.

 

[luxire]

I agree, it's a good discussion. Let me first say that I have never tried any of the synthetic or technical fabrics available at Luxire. The items with some synthetic components including linings, Pantherella cotton blend socks and any trouser trimmings have always been good quality and never caused any issues.

My primary concern with synthetics is the skin (rash and irritation) and Asthma reactions I have had to them, particularly during my school days. Granted, this was with very high or 100% synthetics, likely of poor quality and other chemical additions (dying agents?) possibly adding to the problem. I was so pleased when I was tall enough to wear Dads worn out 100% wool grey bespoke pants to school.

In more recent years, I have had Zegna jeans with 2% elastane and they wore hotter and were never as smooth as their 100% cotton equivalents (same size and block). The 100% poly sport sport shirts have been problematic as well. I can wear synthetic linings without any issue. It should also be said that some studies have shown skin irritation due to cloth is more to do with micron count than synthetic vs natural. I find cheap cottons and wools irritating as well. In the case of Asthma, it can be loose strands as well - present on the finest quality cashmere.

A secondary concern is their lustre. I have not seen synthetic/poly fabrics that match the variation under light produced by beautiful natural fabrics like cashmere, Alumo poplins, high super counts wools, etc.

To make explicit, I'm probably in a small percentage for which the disadvantages of synthetics outweigh their positives. I'm also not trying to discourage others from them, as I understand many of their benefits. I work in a casual office and wear mostly chinos, and some technology that makes them last longer and stay crease resistant is of very high interest. I'll likely always be apprehensive about a cotton/poly blend, but things the could alleviate my concerns would be a lower amount of poly, a high quality mill, and potentially some dermatological endorsement. A sample of fabric would help, but the ultimate test is the wear.

Thank you for the very informative reply. These are all genuine concerns.
I remember from a few years ago, Fitbit band used to create rashes on my wrist. Any such product becomes a pain till discarded.

Will keep your requirements in mind during our search for the right technical fabric.

Continuing the discussion on synthetics in clothing:
The poor reputation of synthetics is primarily because they were most often added to natural fibers for cost reasons. The thought that if it is synthetic, it is made cheap and thus not good is ingrained in many minds.
Today, a lot of these synthetic fabrics cost many times more than their natural equivalent, minus the magic.

The technology advancements have been amazing. Many fabric manufacturers understand these issues and have their own parameters which make their fabrics skin friendly. In this regard, the Swiss mills are in a very high league, which have seen at both Alumo and Schoeller. Will try to visit Mectex in January and share thoughts.

A lot of synthetics are woven into the natural fibers in many ways to prevent them from coming in touch with the skin. So, the few % of Lycra should almost never be worrying. The anti-abrasion synthetics are woven on the top of the fabric and not on the inside. So, it does not touch skin.
Then, most water/wind treatments are done on the outer surface. Before cutting these fabrics, we test the waterproof side.

Most reputed mills are very particular about chemicals they use.

On our part, we are very particular about buying only stuff that meet our own quality benchmarks.

Overall, these neo-synths need to be seen in a new light. They are here to make our life easier. There is of-course a lot of gimmick being floated, only for marketing. The task of separating these fluff from real benefits is ours.

 

[LuxireStudio]

Washed Indigo Denim Chambray

* Milano NOBD-2 Collar.
* One Button Rounded Cuff.
* No Pleat.
* No Dart.
* No Pocket.
* Standard Placket.
* White MOP Buttons.
* Split Yoke.
* V Shaped Clip Gusset.
* Boat Curve Bottom.
* Regular Fit.
* Faded Wash.

Spoiler: Spoiler

 

[LuxireStudio]

Dugdale Light Plum Moleskin

* No Pleat.
* Slant Pockets.
* Zip Fly.
* Standard Extended Front Closure.
* Metal Adjuster on Waist Seam.
* Right Rear Pocket With Button.
* No Lining

Spoiler: Spoiler

 

[Terrence O'Connor]

Great corduroy trousers. Perfect fit right from the start.

 

[GeoffUK]

Grandi and Rubinelli Sky Blue Plain

* Milano NOBD-2 Collar.
* One Button Rounded Cuff.
* No Pleat.
* 100% Cotton.
* No Dart.
* No Pocket.
* No Placket.
* White MOP Buttons.
* Split Yoke.
* V Shape Clip Gusset.
* Boat Curve Bottom.

View attachment 1080165

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Do you know what collar fusing/interlining options this used? Looks lovely and very much like the effect I would like to go for.

 

[JoeBlack0]

Thank you for the very informative reply. These are all genuine concerns.
I remember from a few years ago, Fitbit band used to create rashes on my wrist. Any such product becomes a pain till discarded.

Will keep your requirements in mind during our search for the right technical fabric.

Continuing the discussion on synthetics in clothing:
The poor reputation of synthetics is primarily because they were most often added to natural fibers for cost reasons. The thought that if it is synthetic, it is made cheap and thus not good is ingrained in many minds.
Today, a lot of these synthetic fabrics cost many times more than their natural equivalent, minus the magic.

The technology advancements have been amazing. Many fabric manufacturers understand these issues and have their own parameters which make their fabrics skin friendly. In this regard, the Swiss mills are in a very high league, which have seen at both Alumo and Schoeller. Will try to visit Mectex in January and share thoughts.

A lot of synthetics are woven into the natural fibers in many ways to prevent them from coming in touch with the skin. So, the few % of Lycra should almost never be worrying. The anti-abrasion synthetics are woven on the top of the fabric and not on the inside. So, it does not touch skin.
Then, most water/wind treatments are done on the outer surface. Before cutting these fabrics, we test the waterproof side.

Most reputed mills are very particular about chemicals they use.

On our part, we are very particular about buying only stuff that meet our own quality benchmarks.

Overall, these neo-synths need to be seen in a new light. They are here to make our life easier. There is of-course a lot of gimmick being floated, only for marketing. The task of separating these fluff from real benefits is ours.

Could you please explain in which way a cotton chino with synthetics would be better than a normal one? would it retain the shape or the crease better?

 

[luxire]

Could you please explain in which way a cotton chino with synthetics would be better than a normal one? would it retain the shape or the crease better?

Cotton chinos are good as they are. Comfortable and easy care.

Some advantages of synthetics can be:
1. Lycra: With 2-3% lycra inside the cotton thread, the pants will have a bit of stretch. This adds to comfort. For slim pants, the comfort is very "visible", doing everyday tasks like sitting, walking etc.

2. Polyester: A blend of polyester will prevent the pants from wrinkling, wearing out quickly and will make the pants dry faster. If am buying light chinos, I think I would prefer a poly-blend over 100% cotton. Even better with poly-cotton-lycra. These would be the perfect pants for travel.

3. Nylon: In weaving, nylon is usually added towards the external surface. This prevents abrasion. So, thicker chinos, with nylon, can be good on motorcycles, for example.

For shape stability, a poly blend is better.

These are some of the most common examples. There are other blends that work for specific climate or lifestyle needs.

 

[JoeBlack0]

Cotton chinos are good as they are. Comfortable and easy care.

Some advantages of synthetics can be:
1. Lycra: With 2-3% lycra inside the cotton thread, the pants will have a bit of stretch. This adds to comfort. For slim pants, the comfort is very "visible", doing everyday tasks like sitting, walking etc.

2. Polyester: A blend of polyester will prevent the pants from wrinkling, wearing out quickly and will make the pants dry faster. If am buying light chinos, I think I would prefer a poly-blend over 100% cotton. Even better with poly-cotton-lycra. These would be the perfect pants for travel.

3. Nylon: In weaving, nylon is usually added towards the external surface. This prevents abrasion. So, thicker chinos, with nylon, can be good on motorcycles, for example.

For shape stability, a poly blend is better.

These are some of the most common examples. There are other blends that work for specific climate or lifestyle needs.

Thank you, certainly interesting, will take into account.

 

[Quesjac]

Great corduroy trousers. Perfect fit right from the start.

Looking good. Can you give some thougts on the colours and fabrics once you've worn them?

 

[Thrifter]

@luxire last year you made me a wonderful linen hoodie. I have asked before but I will ask again - have you had any luck sourcing linen jersey fabric or linen with some stretch? As much as I love my linen hoodie it has limited mobility due to the lack of stretch.