Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread

[All Tatters]



I image googled "light tan twill". This result immediately caught my eye:

http://luxire.com/collections/pants/products/light-tan-twill-chino



So that one, but medium weight and maybe washed.

Isn't this exactly what you asked for? And you can ask Luxire to apply a 'heavy wash' (which may or may not be as heavy as the 'heavy wash' for jeans). Coming from you, this request would not be denied unless it would mean the garment would actually be damaged too heavily.

 

[johanm]



Isn't this exactly what you asked for? And you can ask Luxire to apply a 'heavy wash' (which may or may not be as heavy as the 'heavy wash' for jeans). Coming from you, this request would not be denied unless it would mean the garment would actually be damaged too heavily.

180-210 grams is not "medium weight". Would want something more like 330 grams.

On color, this is the type of beige/tan I like:

You can also see a nice "washed" effect in this pic.

 

[ryewo[i dmfsOZI490w]



I image googled "light tan twill". This result immediately caught my eye:

http://luxire.com/collections/pants/products/light-tan-twill-chino



So that one, but medium weight and maybe washed.

So the fabric you want is the exact one they have already? Lucky!

To the guy above with the white shirt - I'm not so sure you should reduce your chest size when you're already asking about why your chest buttons are pulling. It appears to me as if your chest is pretty snug - look at the way it's hugging your pecs as it goes around the side of your body.

Also, don't forget to decrease the cuff of your sleeve. The way I learnt how it should work is that when your arm is hanging down, your cuff is what prevents the sleeve from falling all the way down - you want some extra length in the sleeve for comfort and when you bend your elbow.

 

[7_rocket]



I humbly ask for critique of my second shirt from luxire.

I was thinking for my next shirt:
Yoke -0.5 inches
Chest -0.5 inches
Waist -0.5 inches
Arm sleeve -0.25 inches
Sleeve length -0.25 inches (also becomes a bit shorter because of shorter yoke)

I'm worried the taper will be too aggressive and create an hourglass look instead of the illusion of a V-shape. Also, why do the chest buttons "pull" when I have ample (too much in fact) chest and yoke size?

Only thing personally I would touch is the sleeve length. Maybe the arm's but depends on how you like it.

 

[Evolve]



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

I humbly ask for critique of my second shirt from luxire. I was thinking for my next shirt: Yoke -0.5 inches Chest -0.5 inches Waist -0.5 inches Arm sleeve -0.25 inches Sleeve length -0.25 inches (also becomes a bit shorter because of shorter yoke) I'm worried the taper will be too aggressive and create an hourglass look instead of the illusion of a V-shape. Also, why do the chest buttons "pull" when I have ample (too much in fact) chest and yoke size?

I'd suggest increasing the bottom measurement. As it is, it's not wide enough to fall cleanly over your hips, and thus is bunching in the lower back area. I wouldn't decrease the waist any further, but you might want to considering darts. Shoulders look a bit too wide and sleeves too long, but you already plan to correct that. Otherwise, it's a decent looking shirt. I'm not sure what to make of the slight button-pulling at the chest, since it seems you indeed have plenty of room there.

 

[MacGuffen]



To the guy above with the white shirt - I'm not so sure you should reduce your chest size when you're already asking about why your chest buttons are pulling. It appears to me as if your chest is pretty snug - look at the way it's hugging your pecs as it goes around the side of your body.

Also, don't forget to decrease the cuff of your sleeve. The way I learnt how it should work is that when your arm is hanging down, your cuff is what prevents the sleeve from falling all the way down - you want some extra length in the sleeve for comfort and when you bend your elbow.

Much obliged! I wasn't sure if chest size was to blame, since I feel like the chest is flaring slightly in the first picture, under the left armpit. Could the armholes be too small?

Yeah, my right cuff is tighter, the left is a bit looser for use with a watch.

By the way, do you feel it is wearable untucked? It is an OBDS after all. I was worried it was too long. Thanks!

Edit: And thank you to both 7_rocket and Evolve for your input!

I'd suggest increasing the bottom measurement. As it is, it's not wide enough to fall cleanly over your hips, and thus is bunching in the lower back area. I wouldn't decrease the waist any further, but you might want to considering darts. Shoulders look a bit too wide and sleeves too long, but you already plan to correct that. Otherwise, it's a decent looking shirt. I'm not sure what to make of the slight button-pulling at the chest, since it seems you indeed have plenty of room there.

I was hoping to avoid darts, as tailoring is ridiculously expensive in my country. Forgive my ignorance, but wouldn't correct measurements render darting unnecessary?
I'm hoping to avoid the "hourglass" figure (which I personally see as feminine) when wearing shirts untucked, wouldn't a wider bottom measurement exacerbate this?

Thank you very much!

 

[DarkDestiny]

^

In the first picture you're essentially pulling the shirt outward with your arm while taking the picture. This shrinks the chest measurement of your body, which makes the fabric billow slightly. In the second picture, your arm is slightly lower, which causes the shirt not to move. The second picture is a more natural position that indicates your chest measurement is indeed too small due to the button pull.

Correct measurement does not always render darts useless. The back is almost always smaller than the front in that area. You can reduce the back measurement across the waist, but that causes the shirt seam to twist around to the back. Based on my understanding of what OTC tailor said, this causes the shirt fabric to pull in an unsightly way if it's too curved. Darts prevent this from happening. You can always have Luxire put the darts in during construction, or you can reduce the back measurement at the waist. It really depends on your needs. Also, based on my limited experiments, darts don't necessarily change the fit of the front to make it more hourglass.

 

[Evolve]



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Edit: And thank you to both 7_rocket and Evolve for your input!
I was hoping to avoid darts, as tailoring is ridiculously expensive in my country. Forgive my ignorance, but wouldn't correct measurements render darting unnecessary?
I'm hoping to avoid the "hourglass" figure (which I personally see as feminine) when wearing shirts untucked, wouldn't a wider bottom measurement exacerbate this?

Thank you very much!

There is dissenting opinion about darts, but I very much prefer them on dress shirts I wear tucked-in. Luxire can make your shirt with darts; no need to pay to get it tailored after the fact. I'm no expert, but from what I understand, darts give a three dimensional shape that otherwise isn't possible. They take-in excess fabric in the lower back area, allowing the shirt to more closely follow the natural contours of the back without being tight, especially on someone with an athletic physique.

That said, I wouldn't get darts on a shirt I intend to wear untucked. If I'm wearing a shirt untucked, I'm not worried about excess fabric bunching and blousing, so I don't mind if it's a bit roomier throughout the midsection so that it drapes cleanly. As for the bottom measurement, it's your call of course, but look at your side and rear pics: the bottom isn't wide enough to fall over your hips/derriere. In the front pic, the tails are splayed apart. YMMV, but just remember that going too slim can have the opposite of the intended effect.

 

[NOBD]



Isn't this exactly what you asked for?

So the fabric you want is the exact one they have already? Lucky!

->

180-210 grams is not "medium weight". Would want something more like 330 grams.

* * *

On color, this is the type of beige/tan I like:

You can also see a nice "washed" effect in this pic.

That's it, Johan.

 

[mattcritchlow]

I agree. I think this is a really excellent idea. Would be interested in participating.

The idea is excellent. May be we can start with a few linen options and some Chino colors.

If there are any recommendations, do let us know. Will get this started quickly.

Thank you again for the great idea.

 

[MacGuffen]

^

In the first picture you're essentially pulling the shirt outward with your arm while taking the picture. This shrinks the chest measurement of your body, which makes the fabric billow slightly. In the second picture, your arm is slightly lower, which causes the shirt not to move. The second picture is a more natural position that indicates your chest measurement is indeed too small due to the button pull.

Correct measurement does not always render darts useless. The back is almost always smaller than the front in that area. You can reduce the back measurement across the waist, but that causes the shirt seam to twist around to the back. Based on my understanding of what OTC tailor said, this causes the shirt fabric to pull in an unsightly way if it's too curved. Darts prevent this from happening. You can always have Luxire put the darts in during construction, or you can reduce the back measurement at the waist. It really depends on your needs. Also, based on my limited experiments, darts don't necessarily change the fit of the front to make it more hourglass.

There is dissenting opinion about darts, but I very much prefer them on dress shirts I wear tucked-in. Luxire can make your shirt with darts; no need to pay to get it tailored after the fact. I'm no expert, but from what I understand, darts give a three dimensional shape that otherwise isn't possible. They take-in excess fabric in the lower back area, allowing the shirt to more closely follow the natural contours of the back without being tight, especially on someone with an athletic physique.

That said, I wouldn't get darts on a shirt I intend to wear untucked. If I'm wearing a shirt untucked, I'm not worried about excess fabric bunching and blousing, so I don't mind if it's a bit roomier throughout the midsection so that it drapes cleanly. As for the bottom measurement, it's your call of course, but look at your side and rear pics: the bottom isn't wide enough to fall over your hips/derriere. In the front pic, the tails are splayed apart. YMMV, but just remember that going too slim can have the opposite of the intended effect.

Fantastic! Thank you both, DarkDestiny and Evolve! Darts make a lot more sense to me now, I'll have to look into that.

I tried measuring how much the chest buttons split when they are unhooked, and they split about an inch (worst case scenario, when retracting my shoulders backwards). So that means I should add 0.5 inches to chest measurement, right? Seeing as I'm only adding to one half of the shirt (meaning + 0.5 will total 1 inches added circumference??). If I recall correctly, chest measurements can only be chosen in half inch increments and not quarter inch increments.

Now that you say it, Evolve, I definitely agree with the bottom not being wide enough to fall over my hips sufficiently. Do you think 0.5 inches will be enough for increased bottom measurement?

 

[cc3peat]

In response to the kickstarter idea, which I think is a good one, I would recommend checking out Gustin. They do something similar and it seems to work quite well for them; in addition, from what I've heard (I have never ordered from them) they are remarkably good value for the money.

 

[kulata]

Anybody ordered the moss green royal Oxford fabric?

http://luxire.com/products/moss-green-royal-oxford

How does it feel? I am trying to make my version of the Miles Davis green oxford shirt and this is the closest fabric luxire stocks.

 

[dfagdfsh]

I know we've talked about this before (or at least I've asked), but whats the address in New Jersey to send a shirt to copied, and what's the turn around time?

 

[7_rocket]



I know we've talked about this before (or at least I've asked), but whats the address in New Jersey to send a shirt to copied, and what's the turn around time?

Come on man. You have a billion posts..

We will be glad to exactly replicate a shirt or pant you would send, with or without any modifications you may like. We then save the measurements and make a paper pattern for your future orders.

The steps required are:

1. Just order for shirt/pant, in notes add comment "Sending shirt/pant for measurements"

2. Send us the shirt/pant at the the following address. Do make sure the item is laundered before sending across. Include your order number with the shirt:

Luxire.com
9 Stephenville pkwy ,
Edison NJ 08820