Logo without a logo

[KOz]

So you wouldn’t go for a jubilee bracelet?

Although it’s functional aesthetics, it’s not immediately necessary even thought the design might be a slight improvement functionally..

Personally I prefer watches with leather straps. To each their own.

 

[King-Panther]

Personally I prefer watches with leather straps. To each their own.

Me too tbh. So no to the fluted bezel? Are you against any aesthetics that’s not immediately necessary?

 

[TheIronDandy]

If you want a high end tailoring house with a distinct aesthetic, Edward Sexton would be my suggestion (available as ready to wear - bespoke might be out of your price range). His cut is definitely not your run-of-the-mill "italian-inspired" suit. While in theory you could ask someone to copy it, unless they're familiar with the Sexton look they might get some obvious details right but fail to achieve the overall silhouette. Just like lots of low-end watchmakers copy some Rolex designs, but still won't make a bracelet as good.

But keep in mind that usually quality tailoring is very subtle, and the work tends to show with time rather than right when you buy it. You can buy a "luxury" cashmere jacket that feels wonderfully soft and comfortable, but after a couple of visits to the clearners it feels shapeless and the fabric is already looking a bit threadbare. If you put on some weight and need it taken out, there's no excess fabric to do so. You can feel the way a Rolex bracelet will fit you (considering the micro adjustments, hopefully it will fit well!) - tailoring tends to show its quality over the years.

 

[King-Panther]

If you want a high end tailoring house with a distinct aesthetic, Edward Sexton would be my suggestion (available as ready to wear - bespoke might be out of your price range). His cut is definitely not your run-of-the-mill "italian-inspired" suit. While in theory you could ask someone to copy it, unless they're familiar with the Sexton look they might get some obvious details right but fail to achieve the overall silhouette. Just like lots of low-end watchmakers copy some Rolex designs, but still won't make a bracelet as good.

But keep in mind that usually quality tailoring is very subtle, and the work tends to show with time rather than right when you buy it. You can buy a "luxury" cashmere jacket that feels wonderfully soft and comfortable, but after a couple of visits to the clearners it feels shapeless and the fabric is already looking a bit threadbare. If you put on some weight and need it taken out, there's no excess fabric to do so. You can feel the way a Rolex bracelet will fit you (considering the micro adjustments, hopefully it will fit well!) - tailoring tends to show its quality over the years.

Thanks

 

[King-Panther]

If you want a high end tailoring house with a distinct aesthetic, Edward Sexton would be my suggestion (available as ready to wear - bespoke might be out of your price range). His cut is definitely not your run-of-the-mill "italian-inspired" suit. While in theory you could ask someone to copy it, unless they're familiar with the Sexton look they might get some obvious details right but fail to achieve the overall silhouette. Just like lots of low-end watchmakers copy some Rolex designs, but still won't make a bracelet as good.

But keep in mind that usually quality tailoring is very subtle, and the work tends to show with time rather than right when you buy it. You can buy a "luxury" cashmere jacket that feels wonderfully soft and comfortable, but after a couple of visits to the clearners it feels shapeless and the fabric is already looking a bit threadbare. If you put on some weight and need it taken out, there's no excess fabric to do so. You can feel the way a Rolex bracelet will fit you (considering the micro adjustments, hopefully it will fit well!) - tailoring tends to show its quality over the years.

Thanks for that thorough reply

 

[philwongnz]

If you have this budget, why don't you just buy Tom Ford? Second hand or on sale are a bit cheaper than you budget. Not all style has wide lapels, but they all should have:

1) Barchetta Chest pocket​

2) Milanese button hole on the chest​

3) Slightly longer last button hole on the cuff and they should be either 5 4 or 3 buttons (mostly 5)​

4) Curved side trouser pockets​

5) Workable cuff on the trousers (if cuffed)​

6) Back waistband should raise and split with a fastening stitch at the bottom of the split​

7) Excessive amounts of "pick stitches", for example middle of the back, top of the shoulders and the edge of the cuff and lapels​

8) All button holes should have gimp​

​

 

[King-Panther]

I would rather go for something other than Tom ford - and in my opinion, the style is easily imitated, nothing you’ve mentioned can’t be done by a tailor. @philwongnz

 

[philwongnz]

Is actually much harder than what I've mentioned. As I just described the externals and the internals are a different ball game according to my Savile Row trained tailor who does my alternations.

Sure I had seen some Instagram accounts where they had copied most of TF styles and they done a reasonably good job, but the lapel doesn't roll exactly as it should, or the rope shoulders is not exactly the same, or the milanese button hole is not as tightly woven etc. Or the cut just doesn't look right, etc.

On top of that Tom Ford has exclusive fabrics where you won't be able to find with any other brands.

 

[King-Panther]

Is actually much harder than what I've mentioned. As I just described the externals and the internals are a different ball game according to my Savile Row trained tailor who does my alternations.

Sure I had seen some Instagram accounts where they had copied most of TF styles and they done a reason good job, but the lapel doesn't roll exactly as it should, or the rope shoulders is not exactly the same, or the milanese button hole is not as tightly woven etc. Or the cut just doesn't look right, etc.

On top of that Tom Ford has exclusive fabrics where you won't be able to find with any other brands.

Those are great points, thanks

 

[double00]

we're talking about a signifier that is specific but not crass ?

fwiw I think the Tom Ford 5 button sleeve is totally stupid . i'm not even going to mention thom Browne . the Isaia coral pin is literally a logo , how about a versace suit with allover Medusa heads woven in to the fabric ? ugh .

if we are talking tailoring and proprietary details I like
- j press with the hook vent
- oxxford with the quarter lining and skeleton
- spalla camicia
- even a polo ii with the great soft shoulder .

 

[King-Panther]

we're talking about a signifier that is specific but not crass ?

fwiw I think the Tom Ford 5 button sleeve is totally stupid . i'm not even going to mention thom Browne . the Isaia coral pin is literally a logo , how about a versace suit with allover Medusa heads woven in to the fabric ? ugh .

if we are talking tailoring and proprietary details I like
- j press with the hook vent
- oxxford with the quarter lining and skeleton
- spalla camicia
- even a polo ii with the great soft shoulder .

The hook vent was exactly what I had in mind. Is it more functional though, and is it exclusive to them?

 

[Hₑighthere]

Here's what http://www.ivy-style.com/the-hook-vent-trademark-of-the-ivy-leauge-look.html had to say about that in 2018:

One of the most salient characteristics of the Ivy League Look is the hook vent on suits and sportcoats. Though primarily associated with J. Press — where it became a brand signature along with the combed Shetland sweater and the button-flap oxford shirt — the hook vent was also a common feature on jackets from brands like Norman Hilton that catered to independent campus shops. It was also occasionally seen at Brooks Brothers.

But today, save for J. Press, the hook vent has all but disappeared from the menswear marketplace.