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MickeyPunch

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After owning a bunch of leather jackets I feel I still haven’t found one which matches the ideal jacket in my mind, even just material wise. I imagine a jacket with leather that is very tough but very thin and pliable at the same time, maybe it’s an oxymoron? Lamb can be quite pliable but it feels just too fragile and stretchy. Then calf is very sturdy but too thick and cardboard-like in most cases, even in fashion-y, non-repro brands, and I guess horse is similar.

Actually the closest I’ve got is, ironically, with a Superdry jacket well before I was into fashion, and my first leather jacket. It was calf but really thin. I think most SF-approved brands would scoff at that leather.

I think my ideal leather is either calf or horse but very thin one. Any brands out there doing this?
 
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Understatesman

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@MickeyPunch Ever owned a TOJ? Their lambskin double riders were pretty substantial and felt great. Soft, but thick enough to feel tough in.

I have an old Coach rider which, while nowhere near the thickness of TOJ, feels equally quality. It's a lambskin, but with weight and heft unlike that they've been putting out these past few years. Same with old Ralph Lauren pieces.
 

yunBW

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As I see you were not getting replies, a couple of Japanese makers with something somewhat similar, albeit maybe not quite as minimalistic and I’m not sure about jacket length, are Addict (AD-01) and Moto (kneon mostly for their shoes).

Addict-Clothes-AD-01-Horsehide-Leather-Jacket6.jpg


IMG_7299_1000x.jpg


Of course if you don’t mind a chest pocket or two (I do) then there’s many options, including Fine Creek, Iron Heart, The Flat Head…

I’m sure that chest pocket is part of some original design and it served some sort of function, but I don’t think 99% of the people would ever use it and I don’t like it personally.
Thanks for the response, managed to try some jacket within my area gotten a better idea. I think I will end up getting a custom jacket from a maker as I want slightly more body cut, volume on the sleeves and other details. Feel like most rtw leather jacket maker are on the snug side which is not something I wear day to day
 

MickeyPunch

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@MickeyPunch Ever owned a TOJ? Their lambskin double riders were pretty substantial and felt great. Soft, but thick enough to feel tough in.

I have an old Coach rider which, while nowhere near the thickness of TOJ, feels equally quality. It's a lambskin, but with weight and heft unlike that they've been putting out these past few years. Same with old Ralph Lauren pieces.
Not TOJ but I own 4 Falcon jackets. One of them is lamb, and it’s indeed very substantial and thick for lamb, but it feels… fragile. Once I put my hand luggage on top of it and it cut through the whole leather, that wouldn’t have happened to my other jackets.

The other three Falcon I own are calf suede (thick/heavy and pliable but suede), goat (actually comes close to what I’m describing, but too much grain and has some plasticky coating) and calf (waaaay too thick and cardboardy, Iasked for the old TOJ calf because the standard Falcon one felt more matte in pics).
 

yunBW

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After owning a bunch of leather jackets I feel I still haven’t found one which matches the ideal jacket in my mind, even just material wise. I imagine a jacket with leather that is very tough but very thin and pliable at the same time, maybe it’s an oxymoron? Lamb can be quite pliable but it feels just too fragile and stretchy. Then calf is very sturdy but too thick and cardboard-like in most cases, even in fashion-y, non-repro brands, and I guess horse is similar.

Actually the closest I’ve got is, ironically, with a Superdry jacket well before I was into fashion, and my first leather jacket. It was calf but really thin. I think most SF-approved brands would scoff at that leather.

I think my ideal leather is either calf or horse but very thin one. Any brands out there doing this?
Have you looked into deerskin? From my understanding it suppose to be similar density as cow or horse but much more supple and comfortable to wear (correct me if I’m wrong)
 

whorishconsumer

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After owning a bunch of leather jackets I feel I still haven’t found one which matches the ideal jacket in my mind, even just material wise. I imagine a jacket with leather that is very tough but very thin and pliable at the same time, maybe it’s an oxymoron? Lamb can be quite pliable but it feels just too fragile and stretchy. Then calf is very sturdy but too thick and cardboard-like in most cases, even in fashion-y, non-repro brands, and I guess horse is similar.

Actually the closest I’ve got is, ironically, with a Superdry jacket well before I was into fashion, and my first leather jacket. It was calf but really thin. I think most SF-approved brands would scoff at that leather.

I think my ideal leather is either calf or horse but very thin one. Any brands out there doing this?

I was once told over at Fedora Lounge that the animal origin doesn't necessarily dictate texture or pliability, that you can have very stiff lamb or very soft, pliant horse. I recently picked up a James Grose from the NMWA archive sale and it is a very soft horse hide, akin, I'd say, to the common lamb jacket but not spongey. Mine arrived with some dings, however, and so I'm a little suspect of the durability, but have only just started wearing so can't yet deem.

I'll also note they run small, akin to Japanese makers (because they are a Japanese maker).
 

nyarkies

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Find something in kangaroo.

I have a 5 zip in horsehide that's quite soft. I don't think one will mistake it for lamb but you wouldn't definitely think it was horsehide.

Bison leather I've handled before is quite soft and pliable. I would assume it's as durable as horsehide and calf.
 
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SixOhNine

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Find something in kangaroo.
Not easy, since the hides are relatively small, so it gets expensive quickly. Color matching can be a little dicey, too. That said, kangaroo is incredibly tough, despite being very thin. Dyes well, easy to work with; just fantastic leather.
 

MickeyPunch

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Th Our Legacy jacket posted the other day has had me thinking about a simple collared moto jacket.

The thing is, I’d like it cropped and slim, so I don’t think there would be many options out there other than fashion brands like Celine/SLP and I’m definitely not paying those prices.

I’ve thought about Falcon Garments as I’ve already got 4 jackets from them and I know the right measurements already, but I’m not too thrilled about the leather options. Lamb as I mentioned the other day feels stretchy and not “dense” enough. Goat is close but the brown one I have from them (an A2) seems to have some coating I don’t love, and the black one looks the same from pictures I’ve seen; also, too much grain, looks like pebbled leather/scotch grain. Standard black calf looks too matte in pictures for my liking, and Horween options are too expensive and probably too thick/not pliable enough.

Then I remembered a (former?) SF affiliate, Atelier Bertrand. I really like their collared jacket as it’s super minimal. Price range seems to be in the Falcon tier but maybe MTM is higher. It has the same problem as Falcon though, lamb is their standard hide and they have a deer option that increases the price by a whopping 60%.

Blouson_col_chemise_agenau_plonge_camel_2.jpg


Any alternatives you can think that look like the above, are kinda cropped/offer MTM, do not have any chest pockets and has a nice substantial but not cardboardy leather, and that doesn’t cost $4k?
 

jischwar

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Th Our Legacy jacket posted the other day has had me thinking about a simple collared moto jacket.

The thing is, I’d like it cropped and slim, so I don’t think there would be many options out there other than fashion brands like Celine/SLP and I’m definitely not paying those prices.

I’ve thought about Falcon Garments as I’ve already got 4 jackets from them and I know the right measurements already, but I’m not too thrilled about the leather options. Lamb as I mentioned the other day feels stretchy and not “dense” enough. Goat is close but the brown one I have from them (an A2) seems to have some coating I don’t love, and the black one looks the same from pictures I’ve seen; also, too much grain, looks like pebbled leather/scotch grain. Standard black calf looks too matte in pictures for my liking, and Horween options are too expensive and probably too thick/not pliable enough.

Then I remembered a (former?) SF affiliate, Atelier Bertrand. I really like their collared jacket as it’s super minimal. Price range seems to be in the Falcon tier but maybe MTM is higher. It has the same problem as Falcon though, lamb is their standard hide and they have a deer option that increases the price by a whopping 60%.

Blouson_col_chemise_agenau_plonge_camel_2.jpg


Any alternatives you can think that look like the above, are kinda cropped/offer MTM, do not have any chest pockets and has a nice substantial but not cardboardy leather, and that doesn’t cost $4k?
How cropped are the ones from Addict?
 

scurvyfreedman

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Th Our Legacy jacket posted the other day has had me thinking about a simple collared moto jacket.

The thing is, I’d like it cropped and slim, so I don’t think there would be many options out there other than fashion brands like Celine/SLP and I’m definitely not paying those prices.

I’ve thought about Falcon Garments as I’ve already got 4 jackets from them and I know the right measurements already, but I’m not too thrilled about the leather options. Lamb as I mentioned the other day feels stretchy and not “dense” enough. Goat is close but the brown one I have from them (an A2) seems to have some coating I don’t love, and the black one looks the same from pictures I’ve seen; also, too much grain, looks like pebbled leather/scotch grain. Standard black calf looks too matte in pictures for my liking, and Horween options are too expensive and probably too thick/not pliable enough.

Then I remembered a (former?) SF affiliate, Atelier Bertrand. I really like their collared jacket as it’s super minimal. Price range seems to be in the Falcon tier but maybe MTM is higher. It has the same problem as Falcon though, lamb is their standard hide and they have a deer option that increases the price by a whopping 60%.

Blouson_col_chemise_agenau_plonge_camel_2.jpg


Any alternatives you can think that look like the above, are kinda cropped/offer MTM, do not have any chest pockets and has a nice substantial but not cardboardy leather, and that doesn’t cost $4k?

Thedi has limited stock, but is mostly, MTO and MTM, so you can get this style jacket and delete the pockets and sleeve cinches.

The below jacket is deerskin. Lots of leather choices.

When I got my Thedi a couple years ago, it cost around $1400 MTM through Thurston Bros. It may be a more now with inflation. Buffalo is what got. It can be a bit stiff like horse.

Thurston calls this model the Memphis. Thedi just uses numbers for the model numbers.

Screenshot 2023-10-20 at 4.04.52 PM.png
 

MickeyPunch

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801e0753d537031676441c6f3fd4f21e.jpg


images


Some examples. Celine has a nice brown one this season too. I don’t mind some seams here and there, as long as it doesn’t have the bloody chest pocket.
 

MickeyPunch

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Thanks guys, yeah I’ve been eyeing the Addict AD-01, in some pics it looks super long and in others it’s ok, it varies a lot depending on the model I guess (and/or the year?). Can’t try it on where I live but it’s an option.

Also the Lewis Leathers Corsair, but kinda long and boxy and can’t swallow that patch unfortunately.

Re. Thedi, I had browsed their website but they all looked too busy, good to know they offer customisation options.
 

yunBW

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@MickeyPunch im going to get it custom from thedi or Johnson leather SF. Both should be able to make it.

Fine creek leather jack is pretty cropped but leather might be too stiff for your liking. Other ones are real McCoy mobster?

There’s aero leather and Lewis. I believe you can specify certain details to be remove just need to email them.

You should be having a easier time to find crop ones with these makers when you want a slim silhouette
 

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