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RedVelvetWounds

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This horse must have had a rough life (on one side).

View attachment 1759922

543603a83cd0189df307e40909b019d2kopie.jpg
 

BuddaLun

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I am looking for a Maison Margiela 5 zip in medium. Please reach out if you’ve got one you’d like to sell.

Edit: 48.
 
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nyarkies

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AFAIK the sizing use italian suiting sizes (46-48-50-etc...). At least mine does.

I always assume medium would default to a 48. Given how the 5-zips fit differently depending on the year, it'd be better for @BuddaLun to be specific the fit he is looking for.

Anyway, touching on the collar gap and pattern on the Vanson daredevil, I read somewhere here that Vanson's sleeves (or sleeve pitch) is cut for the riding posture or something along that line since first and foremost, Vanson's jackets are designed for riding. I've noticed on trying the Daredevil that if I relax my shoulders forward with the arms somewhat resting in front of my thighs as if I'm holding a bar in front of me, the collar hugs my neck as opposed to having my shoulders pulled back and chest slightly out when standing straight normally, the collar gap appears. I don't have much knowledge about pattern design and riding a bike so for somebody that has knowledge on both can probably give an insight to it. I'm thinking there really isn't anything wrong with the pattern or design of the Daredevil because of the collar gap but rather it was patterned or designed on somebody that would be riding a bike/riding purposes rather than as a fashion piece.
 

dieworkwear

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48 in MM sizing is what I’m looking for.

I always assume medium would default to a 48. Given how the 5-zips fit differently depending on the year, it'd be better for @BuddaLun to be specific the fit he is looking for.

Sorry to add to the pile of 5-zip talk, but FWIW, I wear a 48 in the five-zip and I normally take a size small in most things. IMO, if you normally wear a medium, you would want a size 50 in the five-zip.

My last five zip purchase was something like six or seven years ago, so the cut may have changed.

Anyway, touching on the collar gap and pattern on the Vanson daredevil, I read somewhere here that Vanson's sleeves (or sleeve pitch) is cut for the riding posture or something along that line since first and foremost, Vanson's jackets are designed for riding. I've noticed on trying the Daredevil that if I relax my shoulders forward with the arms somewhat resting in front of my thighs as if I'm holding a bar in front of me, the collar hugs my neck as opposed to having my shoulders pulled back and chest slightly out when standing straight normally, the collar gap appears. I don't have much knowledge about pattern design and riding a bike so for somebody that has knowledge on both can probably give an insight to it. I'm thinking there really isn't anything wrong with the pattern or design of the Daredevil because of the collar gap but rather it was patterned or designed on somebody that would be riding a bike/riding purposes rather than as a fashion piece.

If that's true, they're the only leather jacket maker that does this. Other companies that make leather jackets for motorcycle riders (e.g. Schott) don't have this "feature."
 

nyarkies

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Sorry to add to the pile of 5-zip talk, but FWIW, I wear a 48 in the five-zip and I normally take a size small in most things. IMO, if you normally wear a medium, you would want a size 50 in the five-zip.

My last five zip purchase was something like six or seven years ago, so the cut may have changed.

Based on my experience, anything 06 to 09, TTS will work fine unless you have a gut. 10 to 13 one size up definitely.

If that's true, they're the only leather jacket maker that does this. Other companies that make leather jackets for motorcycle riders (e.g. Schott) don't have this "feature."

True. So I'm not sure how Vanson's pattern differs from the other riding jackets. If and when you get the chance, try one on and see if my observations has any merit.
 

dieworkwear

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True. So I'm not sure how Vanson's pattern differs from the other riding jackets. If and when you get the chance, try one on and see if my observations has any merit.

It may be that you can position yourself in such a way that the collar gap disappears, but since no other leather jacket maker produces jackets like this, it suggests that this is just a bad pattern.

This reminds me of a joke about bespoke tailoring. A guy is walking down the street and sees his friend walking awkwardly towards him in a really nice suit. When he approaches, he asks this friend why he's walking so strangely. His friend explains that he just received this bespoke suit from a tailor, and when he asked about the shoulder divot, his tailor explained that the divot goes away when he positions his arm just so. And when he noticed the collar gap, the tailor explained that he just needs to pull his shoulders back like this. And when he noticed the vents flared, the tailor said he needs to thrust his hips forward in this way. And so, after enough time, he learned how he should walk in his new suit.
 

js0930

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It may be that you can position yourself in such a way that the collar gap disappears, but since no other leather jacket maker produces jackets like this, it suggests that this is just a bad pattern.

This reminds me of a joke about bespoke tailoring. A guy is walking down the street and sees his friend walking awkwardly towards him in a really nice suit. When he approaches, he asks this friend why he's walking so strangely. His friend explains that he just received this bespoke suit from a tailor, and when he asked about the shoulder divot, his tailor explained that the divot goes away when he positions his arm just so. And when he noticed the collar gap, the tailor explained that he just needs to pull his shoulders back like this. And when he noticed the vents flared, the tailor said he needs to thrust his hips forward in this way. And so, after enough time, he learned how he should walk in his new suit.

It’s not even inherent to Vanson jackets. I have a Vanson x Freeman Sporting (think it’s roughly based off an Enfield) and there’s no collar gap at all.
 

nyarkies

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It may be that you can position yourself in such a way that the collar gap disappears, but since no other leather jacket maker produces jackets like this, it suggests that this is just a bad pattern.

Tried to look at their own website to see if anything is comparable but I guess that won't be a good place for reference. The only other slim jacket they have is the Junya collab but that definitely has the collar gap. In the process of slimming down the jacket dimensions, somehow the fit on the collar area went awry or wasn't properly accounted for maybe? My other point of you trying it on is to possibly see why the gap is there since I'm assuming you'd have more knowledge on patterns.

This is why I love SF. Just ordered this. Thanks!

I wouldn't get all too excited with TRR's measurements or details provided. My recent experience is sometimes they're off and the actual condition of the item is not properly described on the listing.
 

dieworkwear

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Tried to look at their own website to see if anything is comparable but I guess that won't be a good place for reference. The only other slim jacket they have is the Junya collab but that definitely has the collar gap. In the process of slimming down the jacket dimensions, somehow the fit on the collar area went awry or wasn't properly accounted for maybe? My other point of you trying it on is to possibly see why the gap is there since I'm assuming you'd have more knowledge on patterns.

TBH, I'm prob not going to try one on because that would require me ordering one and I'm not really interested in Vanson jackets.

I don't know anything about creating patterns and don't have any technical expertise. From interviewing bespoke tailors over the years, however, I understand that collar gaps in suits and sport coats can be a result of different things

1. The jacket's chest may be too tight
2. The jacke3t's shoulders may be too sloped for the wearer's
3. The wearer's posture may be more stooped than the jacket allows

I don't know. So many reasons have been given for the collar gap, including this "riding a motorcycle" thing. That reason was brought up in the original Vanson thread. All the reasons seem ad-hoc.
 

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