How can one style vests in the absence of suits?

[tweed_enjoyer]

I quite like the way vests look on me, but I'm having trouble styling them in the absence of full suits. My wardrobe consists mostly of blazers, sportcoats, and odd pants; the reason being that I'm not wealthy enough to buy new suits (and I greatly prefer the construction quality of vintage clothes) and I also live in an area where hardly anyone ever wears suits so it's a bit hard to thrift locally. I've tried eBay to poor results as far as suiting goes, though I've had luck with other pieces.

Given my collection of blazers, sportcoats, and odd jackets (light blue-gray herringbone tweed, brown herringbone tweed, tan camelhair, bottle-green (ish), navy, dark gray windowpane, and green-brown check), my collection of vests (brown twill, grey tweed, navy, and black), and my collection of pants (tan, olive, brown, light gray, navy, blue and white houndstooth 😂, and brown windowpane plaid, jeans)

what would be some combinations of coat, vest, and pants that would not look terrible?

Keep in mind that I live in a place where people call a sportcoat and jeans with no tie a "suit," though I'd like to hold myself to a higher standard than those around me care to.

Thank you for any insight.

 

[wojt]

Hi,
Matching texture as well as color would be very much advised- as you will be matching vintage pieces i’d pay special attention to that

Main actor from “The Mentalist” very often wears vest with shirt only, could be an inspiration for a look or two

 

[TheIronDandy]

Hi,
Matching texture as well as color would be very much advised- as you will be matching vintage pieces i’d pay special attention to that

Main actor from “The Mentalist” very often wears vest with shirt only, could be an inspiration for a look or two

I would have to disagree with this. Matching color and texture can make it look like you're trying to make a suit out of separates. I think colors that compliment each other are a better way to go, like brown jacket, grey trousers, blue vest.

This being said, I personally think that while vests can look good, they very easily look dated. It's a hard look to pull off; it's easier with some grey around the temples, but even then it can easily look like costume.

I would not advice anyone to wear a vest without a jacket. A vest without a jacket simply screams "Look at me, I'm wearing a vest! hashtagmenswear" It's a very hard look to pull off; it might work in some shows or some photoshoots, but less so in real life. All in my humble opinion, of course.

 

[tweed_enjoyer]

I would have to disagree with this. Matching color and texture can make it look like you're trying to make a suit out of separates. I think colors that compliment each other are a better way to go, like brown jacket, grey trousers, blue vest.

This being said, I personally think that while vests can look good, they very easily look dated. It's a hard look to pull off; it's easier with some grey around the temples, but even then it can easily look like costume.

I would not advice anyone to wear a vest without a jacket. A vest without a jacket simply screams "Look at me, I'm wearing a vest! hashtagmenswear" It's a very hard look to pull off; it might work in some shows or some photoshoots, but less so in real life. All in my humble opinion, of course.

I think all that makes sense. One thing that I should have mentioned that might have been helpful to the previous poster is that my pants are all a bit more modern in their styling, construction, and materials (too much polyester!!). In my experience, it's been hard to find vintage pants that fit me well. My frame is on the heavier side, and I find that a lot of the more vintage cuts of trousers aren't terribly flattering on me.

I understand your qualms with vests dating me a bit, but I don't consider that a huge risk in my case. I've been dressing in a somewhat dated manner for quite some time, so most people I know are quite used to my habits. As someone who's 17 and still has a flip phone (by choice), spends a good deal of time reading classic literature, and is fairly conservative in most ways, I believe that people are right in their frequent categorization of myself as an "old soul."

I'm going to try out the outfit you suggested sometime during the next week.

 

[wojt]

I would have to disagree with this. Matching color and texture can make it look like you're trying to make a suit out of separates. I think colors that compliment each other are a better way to go, like brown jacket, grey trousers, blue vest.

This being said, I personally think that while vests can look good, they very easily look dated. It's a hard look to pull off; it's easier with some grey around the temples, but even then it can easily look like costume.

I would not advice anyone to wear a vest without a jacket. A vest without a jacket simply screams "Look at me, I'm wearing a vest! hashtagmenswear" It's a very hard look to pull off; it might work in some shows or some photoshoots, but less so in real life. All in my humble opinion, of course.

Excuse me I was not precise enough with my words. I think we might agree here. What I meant is taking care that textures and colors work together, rather than match. I mean for fabrics to be from same galaxies when it comes to texture as for example in the picture below. You of course can match heavier fabrics with lighter fabrics but it is usually harder to pull off. My main point is that in such mixed coordinated sets choosing pieces where texture of items work with one another is as import as coordinating color.

I think it can even work if that's your thing. It's not classical menswear, but you can get it right(probably many won't).

I think this guy made it look cool.

That's not my thing, but if that's your thing why not.

 

[TheIronDandy]

Excuse me I was not precise enough with my words. I think we might agree here. What I meant is taking care that textures and colors work together, rather than match. I mean for fabrics to be from same galaxies when it comes to texture as for example in the picture below. You of course can match heavier fabrics with lighter fabrics but it is usually harder to pull off. My main point is that in such mixed coordinated sets choosing pieces where texture of items work with one another is as import as coordinating color.

I think it can even work if that's your thing. It's not classical menswear, but you can get it right(probably many won't).

I think this guy made it look cool.

That's not my thing, but if that's your thing why not.

I see your point, different wording for the same thing. We're aligned there

As for the odd vest look, I stand by what I wrote: you can find some picture of some actor or model who looks ok with it, but it looks good because of them (and because of good photography), not because the outfit itself is good. The guy in your first picture isn't looking good because of the vest, the vest is looking ok on him because he's young and fit. The pocket square in the vest pocket, the tie bar, the very broad belt (far more workwear than anything else in his outfit) doesn't do him any favours, but we're part of a culture that idealizes fitness and youth. He gets away with it. Most of us wont.

I think all that makes sense. One thing that I should have mentioned that might have been helpful to the previous poster is that my pants are all a bit more modern in their styling, construction, and materials (too much polyester!!). In my experience, it's been hard to find vintage pants that fit me well. My frame is on the heavier side, and I find that a lot of the more vintage cuts of trousers aren't terribly flattering on me.

I understand your qualms with vests dating me a bit, but I don't consider that a huge risk in my case. I've been dressing in a somewhat dated manner for quite some time, so most people I know are quite used to my habits. As someone who's 17 and still has a flip phone (by choice), spends a good deal of time reading classic literature, and is fairly conservative in most ways, I believe that people are right in their frequent categorization of myself as an "old soul."

I'm going to try out the outfit you suggested sometime during the next week.

Interesting. I find vintage cuts are usually wider and thus look better on larger people. Personally I find modern RTW (outside of niche brands) impossible to wear due to having very thick legs. Of course, it depends on the era they're from.

You seem to know your style, and as long as you know what you're going for, I think you'll be ok with it. We don't talk about it that much here, but a big thing to dressing well is to dress in a way that resonates with who you are. Seems like you're finding a way to do that. Do let us know how the outfits turn out

 

[tweed_enjoyer]

I think this guy made it look cool.

I suppose I could, too, if I were a ruggedly handsome actor.

Interesting. I find vintage cuts are usually wider and thus look better on larger people. Personally I find modern RTW (outside of niche brands) impossible to wear due to having very thick legs. Of course, it depends on the era they're from.

You seem to know your style, and as long as you know what you're going for, I think you'll be ok with it. We don't talk about it that much here, but a big thing to dressing well is to dress in a way that resonates with who you are. Seems like you're finding a way to do that. Do let us know how the outfits turn out

I'm not the tallest guy (around 5' 8"), and I feel that fuller cuts make me look a bit shorter for some reason. I can't tell why, but it seems to be something to do with their being high rise. I can't really pull off high rise pants without looking like Urkel.

And to your other point, I generally am pretty comfortable in my style but vests are proving a little challenging for me. I think what I'm having the most issue with is good color combinations with three different pieces.

 

[ionroir]

I would just bail on the concept of vests entirely. Would make more sense to just widen the pool of what you are wearing that works instead of adding a piece that is inherently weird to style properly. Why blow money on a vest separate when you could spend the same cash to get your thrifted stuff altered or maybe increase your budget for shirts/blazers/pants etc.

Biased here because I can remember the only time I wore a (rented) vest and I thought they were kind of silly as an item even then.

 

[tweed_enjoyer]

I would just bail on the concept of vests entirely. Would make more sense to just widen the pool of what you are wearing that works instead of adding a piece that is inherently weird to style properly. Why blow money on a vest separate when you could spend the same cash to get your thrifted stuff altered or maybe increase your budget for shirts/blazers/pants etc.

Biased here because I can remember the only time I wore a (rented) vest and I thought they were kind of silly as an item even then.

Meh, I like the way they look and vests usually don't set me back much money. I can find them usually for like ten bucks on ebay

 

[paxonus]

Check this out for some great examples of tweed and vest combinations.

santcrispin

Small review of details

www.tumblr.com

 

[tweed_enjoyer]

if possible to look past the sartorial crimes I'm committing here (belt with vest, my tie is too long, etc), does this work as a casual outfit?

Ideally jeans would not be my first choice but I'm behind on laundry lol

 

[TheIronDandy]

The real sartorial crime is jeans with a tie I know it has ivy references (and the Andy Warhol thing) but today it always looks like a very sad business casual: "dress code allows jeans but demands ties" that I associate with people selling cell phone subscriptions at the mall. Other than that, considering the look you described you were going for, I think you're doing it. The color combination works - you're keeping the colors urban/professional, and patterns are under control. Slightly higher rise trousers and lose the belt, and I think you achieved what you wanted.

 

[The Noble Dandy]

View attachment 2309067
if possible to look past the sartorial crimes I'm committing here (belt with vest, my tie is too long, etc), does this work as a casual outfit?

Ideally jeans would not be my first choice but I'm behind on laundry lol

This outfit actually looks great. And jeans with a tie is a nice touch. There is nothing wrong with bending the rules once in a while