HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

[NycLondon]

Crusty's new sofa and new camera poses might be the most significant change in SF history. More than anything, the light is much better here.

don't worry the books are the same, phew!

 

[Caustic Man]

IMO, 2016 is a good year for new members. Good posts from the '16 crowd.

 

[Hypetrain]

IMO, 2016 is a good year for new members. Good posts from the '16 crowd.

Haha, unless you are me and your submission is straight from 1897

 

[jcmeyer]

New suit! This is my second MTM from Kubo Classic Style in Osaka. Besides the stylistic differences from the last one, which was a navy fresco BlazerSuit, I dropped the buttoning point, extended the shoulders, widened the leg at the cuff, and slimmed it at the thigh. All by relatively small amounts (~1cm).

Tie is Vanda, shirt is Spoon Tailor, shoes are Meermin.

Spoiler: A few more for good measure

 

[upr_crust]



don't worry the books are the same, phew!

Yes, except at your subliminal suggestion, I am now using the Andrea Mantegna catalogue as bedtime reading.

 

[bry2000]

JCMeyer, your suit looks pretty good overall.

Some observations for what they are worth, if you are open to comments. I think the cut of the jacket makes your shoulders look overly sloped when I can see that your shoulders do not appear particularly sloped without the jacket on. This sloping effect tends to draw the eye to the midsection as opposed to elongating your frame.

Would you consider slightly narrower lapels? These seem a little wide for your frame, although I understand this can be misleading from the photograph.

If you are going to wear suspenders, you may want to consider a higher rise pair of trousers such that the trousers sit on your natural waist.

To reiterate though, I do like this suit. Just offering constructive observations.

 

[Hypetrain]

Yes, except at your subliminal suggestion, I am now using the Andrea Mantegna catalogue as bedtime reading.

You are literally my hero, Crusty.

 

[jcmeyer]



JCMeyer, your suit looks pretty good overall.

Some observations for what they are worth, if you are open to comments. I think the cut of the jacket makes your shoulders look overly sloped when I can see that your shoulders do not appear particularly sloped without the jacket on. This sloping effect tends to draw the eye to the midsection as opposed to elongating your frame.

Would you consider slightly narrower lapels? These seem a little wide for your frame, although I understand this can be misleading from the photograph.

If you are going to wear suspenders, you may want to consider a higher rise pair of trousers such that the trousers sit on your natural waist.

To reiterate though, I do like this suit. Just offering constructive observations.

Happy to hear your comments - and anyone else's as well.

In terms of the shoulders, my shoulders are pretty sloped naturally so if anything the jacket-off pic may be the misleading one. I personally don't dislike this type of expression but you're by no means the first person to bring it up so it clearly sticks out as a place for improvement. I am planning to try something with more structure on the next commission (with a british traveling tailor, not with Mr. Kubo since I have no desire to try to make him change his make-up). The other thing that adds to the perception of the slope is the high collar of the jacket - it starts up higher on the back of the neck so the slope appears a bit more severe.

Lapels are as small as Mr. Kubo said he could go with this pattern; 0.5cm slimmer than the RTW version. He has one other pattern with slimmer lapels but it didn't fit nearly as well in other places. Ideally I’d like them to be at the mid-point but it wasn't a deal-breaker to me.

The trouser rise is an interesting comment. Do you see them as medium rise but you think they should be high-rise if braces are to be used? I do have short legs and a longer torso so they are only about an inch (or maybe even a little less) below my navel. Not sure I totally agree on this point but interested to hear more of your thoughts on it.

Thanks for the feedback and the overall praise of the suit. I do like it, and each iteration and attempt has been a good learning experience to apply for the next thing.

 

[justinkapur]

Formosa
Talbott x 2
Godard
Panta
EG

 

[Coxsackie]

IMO, 2016 is a good year for new members. Good posts from the '16 crowd.

@Brovsko @SprezzaTrash

Strong new entrants who obviously didn't start dressing well yesterday.

@jcmeyer , this is a pretty good effort from your Osaka MTM guy.

You have a very long neck and I think you could benefit from higher shirt collars, which I suspect may (paradoxically) reduce the perception of shoulder slope. Having the jacket collar sit high is a good strategy for the same reason (i.e. long neck), but can exacerbate the slope issue. I therefore suggest that you ask for a tad more shoulder extension next time, and ceratinly, you should avoid spalla camicia shoulder expression. Roped shoulders might work particularly well for your frame.

 

[Caustic Man]

@Brovsko @SprezzaTrash

Yup, and a couple others, too.

@jcmeyer , I agree with Cox in extending the shoulders a bit more. Also, a slightly shorter jacket would do you some good. Excellent choice on the besom pockets. Lose the cuffs.

 

[upr_crust]



You are literally my hero, Crusty.

Thank you, young Padawan, but the reading of art historical tracts is merely the cure for insomnia (or, more like it, overstimulation from staring at a computer screen all day at work).

 

[DonCologne]

 

[Coxsackie]

^ Don, very unusual pairing of light blue pents with an autumnal colour palette in the upper block. However, it works.

Possibly one pattern too many though. A plain white shirt would have been better here, I feel.

 

[Testudo_Aubreii]

I think Don's patterns and colors are nicely combined. Excellent harmonizing of the tie's ground and secondary colors with the jacket's ground and secondaries, as well as the shirt colors. I agree that that shirt pattern and color feels more appropriate with a suit than with such a countryish odd jacket. But I like the ensemble.

@DonCologne, do you have straight shoulders? If not, I think it might be worth looking for jackets with more sloped shoulders when they have such a prominent check. Something a bit like jcmeyer's shoulders above, although those are quite sloped. The check plus your coat's straight shoulders make you look boxy and rectangular, even though the jacket seems to fit you quite well. If you do have straight shoulders, like I do, I guess one just does the best one can. I never thought my straight shoulders would be a problem until I got into classic menswear...