HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

[Darkside]

The rampant unspoilering is probably the result of people quoting from mobile platforms. Perhaps there should be an auto-spoiler function when quoting images?

Either way, it is annoying as f*ck for browsing. Especially when you trudge past 5 giant photos to see a comment such as "Nice job!

."

 

[Andy57]

I Always like how you wear your cloth, but jacket always looks too long no ? I'm really not a fan of "show your butts" jacket, but I think a compromise is possible.

Thanks. I don't agree with this particular jacket. It's pretty much the length I want it at. I have said before that I simply can't stand jackets that are short and do not cover the crotch of my trousers. I don't feel comfortable in them; I think they make one look juvenile. The hem of this jacket fits nicely in my curled fingers. To me, that's ideal. My most recently acquired suit is a touch longer, maybe one centimeter, more or less. I've had a conversation with the tailor about that. I don't mind it, but I am aware that it looks longer than some other jackets of mine. I'm also trying to create a long, flowing line with my DB suits and I think that a jacket that is longer is the way to do that.

But, in the end, I commission jackets to fit the way I want them to fit. If I'm not comfortable in my clothes, the approval of others means nothing.

If you look through his albums, you will find pictures with a more normal FOV, where the jackets looks very balanced.

I have albums?!?

 

[Andy57]

Wish I could claim anything beyond deductive reasoning, but alas, I cannot ha.

The Genova is the only true yellow PC has. From the looks of it, they should definitely consider widening the Arsenal...a nice pop away from the norm, without being obnoxious. All in all, great stuff.

Ah. You're right. I recall searching their site, looking for yellow fabric and this was really the only one that would make a dress shirt. I'd prefer a different shade, truth be told. Something more pastel, I think. I bought this shirt to wear with greys and navy blues. My Proper Cloth inventory is mostly blue and white and I felt like branching out a little.

 

[Coxsackie]

What is your hat made from @Coxsackie ? It looks like a sisal or baku, either way really nice fit.

DL-

Haha, the colour has you tricked. It's actually a Panama, so I guess it's straw.

Love it @Coxsackie , where's the tie from? (Hard to tell where it falls in the list below your pics)

Thanks guys for the thumbs and comments. It appears my fit also met with the SF robot's approval, as it was featured on Outfit of the Day. Yay!

Tie is a raw silk from Conrad Wu, PS from Kamakura. I'm pretty sure a couple of other members here have the same tie...maybe @Claghorn ?

 

[Coxsackie]

But, in the end, I commission jackets to fit the way I want them to fit. If I'm not comfortable in my clothes, the approval of others means nothing.

Fair enough. However, in this instance, I feel that it might be worth paying heed to the lamentations of the choir.

Flowing lines are all very well, and butt-covering is always to be applauded. But there are also considerations of balance, and of tradition. The extended quarters of your DB jackets are creating a large, bare expanse of material below the mid-jacket details (pocket flaps and lower buttons). It also effectively repositions the buttoning point precisely to the middle of the jacket, detracting from that overall "V" profile which makes DBs so form-flattering in the first place.

The windowpane pattern of your Agnelli tweed makes this effect even more pronounced. It's like looking at a great big piece of graph paper.

My final point with respect to balance is that the extended jacket makes your torso look elongated at the expense of your legs. (This of course may also be affected by the camera angle and lens type.)

As to tradition, I believe it is considered acceptable, perhaps even advisable, for the quarters of a DB jacket to be slightly shorter than for an equivalent SB.

Your Agnelli suit is a thing of wonder. I don't think it would be at all difficult for a tailor to raise the jacket hem by an inch or so, and if you decided you didn't like it, to drop it again. Please do give this some further consideration.

 

[An Acute Style]

Yesterday. New shirt from Spier and Mackay. Best value in OCBDs IMO. I'm not happy with the cardigan honestly. I only wore it for part of the day.

 

[ericgereghty]

I was all like, damn, that's great...and then I saw the 2nd pic. Get that cardy outta here!

 

[bienluienapris]

Thanks. I don't agree with this particular jacket. It's pretty much the length I want it at. I have said before that I simply can't stand jackets that are short and do not cover the crotch of my trousers. I don't feel comfortable in them; I think they make one look juvenile. The hem of this jacket fits nicely in my curled fingers. To me, that's ideal. My most recently acquired suit is a touch longer, maybe one centimeter, more or less. I've had a conversation with the tailor about that. I don't mind it, but I am aware that it looks longer than some other jackets of mine. I'm also trying to create a long, flowing line with my DB suits and I think that a jacket that is longer is the way to do that.

But, in the end, I commission jackets to fit the way I want them to fit. If I'm not comfortable in my clothes, the approval of others means nothing.


I have albums?!?

Totally understand

I'm not shoking by the length (unless for this one), it just always going round my minds, but I've to say that's it looks great on you (because you feel confortable like that), but I don't thinks it's the case of everybody.

PS: Sorry if you have already explain your opinion about that.

 

[YRR92]

Howdy!

Feedback is always appreciated. I wore this with a cream silk square. Shirt is light blue herringbone.

 

[Andy57]

Fair enough. However, in this instance, I feel that it might be worth paying heed to the lamentations of the choir.

Flowing lines are all very well, and butt-covering is always to be applauded. But there are also considerations of balance, and of tradition. The extended quarters of your DB jackets are creating a large, bare expanse of material below the mid-jacket details (pocket flaps and lower buttons). It also effectively repositions the buttoning point precisely to the middle of the jacket, detracting from that overall "V" profile which makes DBs so form-flattering in the first place.

The windowpane pattern of your Agnelli tweed makes this effect even more pronounced. It's like looking at a great big piece of graph paper.

My final point with respect to balance is that the extended jacket makes your torso look elongated at the expense of your legs. (This of course may also be affected by the camera angle and lens type.)

As to tradition, I believe it is considered acceptable, perhaps even advisable, for the quarters of a DB jacket to be slightly shorter than for an equivalent SB.

Your Agnelli suit is a thing of wonder. I don't think it would be at all difficult for a tailor to raise the jacket hem by an inch or so, and if you decided you didn't like it, to drop it again. Please do give this some further consideration.

I am very glad to get feedback, even when I disagree with it. In this instance, shortening the Agnelli tweed simply isn't going to happen. I have certainly thought about it. If I were to shorten it by an inch, then it might no longer cover my butt and, worse, would certainly not cover adequately the front of my trousers. The jacket of the grey suit I posted pix of earlier this week could possibly be shortened. It does appear to be longer than the Agnelli jacket. But I'm still only talking a centimeter at best.

The buttoning point of neither jacket is precisely in the middle. Hanging on a hanger, as the Agnelli is as I type this, the buttoning point is just over one-third of the distance from the hem to the shoulder.

As for the tradition that a DB should be shorter than a SB, well, I have no problem ignoring traditions I don't feel hold any value for me.

The joy of commissioning bespoke tailored clothing is partly in obtaining clothing that fits, but also in obtaining clothing that looks how you want clothes to look. For me, that means, among other things, jackets that are long enough to satisfy my personal preference. Honestly, a significant number of the fits posted to StyFo have jackets that are far too short, in my opinion. And only my opinion. The only time my opinion matters is when I buy things for myself, with my own money.

I sincerely hope I'm not appearing grumpy or combative. That's not my intent. I enjoy the feedback and the conversations that ensue.

 

[Andy57]

PS: Sorry if you have already explain your opinion about that.

I may have. It's more a worry about appearing to be a broken record.

 

[Coxsackie]

Not at all. It's a very interesting and relevant conversation to be having.

If you do decide to shorten that other suit jacket, please do post the outcome for us - I'd be interested to see it!

 

[9thsymph]

@Andy57 Your jackets fit exceptionally well. Don't shorten!

 

[justinkapur]

Zegna
JWN
Panta
Drakes

 

[Andy57]

If you do decide to shorten that other suit jacket, please do post the outcome for us - I'd be interested to see it!

I will. I have another DB in flight at the moment, with the same tailor. As I mentioned, I have had a conversation with him about the incremental lengthening of certainly the last jacket they made. So the next one will, in fact, be one inch shorter. I believe that will be on the cusp of acceptable in my estimation, but we shall see. I'm taking a leap of faith here, going way outside my comfort zone. But hey, YOLO, right? I am hoping for a mid-May delivery, and I will post pictures when I receive it.