HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

[JohnMRobie]

Thanks I just learned two more elements to work on. I haven’t tied many knots so ill work on that in the evenings perhaps. It is a point of frustration for me to get the right length for my long torso. I wasn’t aware that oxfords were mostly reserved for suits. For business casual shoes what should I stick to?

Good news is that four in hand is the simplest knot to tie and you’ve got the elements. Personally I find it helpful to look at the details of the shirt collar (point length and tie space) and lapel width when determining which knot to use and try to find something that balances - Essentially I don’t want any of the 3 to overpower the other. I personally don’t like to think about this much so I found a collar I like and stick with it and don’t have to think I just tie my tie and put on my jacket.

As for shoes - I’m not an absolutist on the oxfords with suits only but I think it’s a helpful thing to consider when getting started. Given you are wearing loafers I’ll take that to mean you’re not one of the unfortunates who can’t find loafers that fit. I personally think loafers are the easiest to get a lot of versatility out of. My most worn three pairs are a brown suede tassel loafer, a black calfskin tassel loafer and a dark brown calfskin penny loafer. They work with tailoring all the way down to jeans.

If business casual for you means chinos, button downs and knits or a vest - I think the loafers work but would consider a brown suede chukka boot in the mix. Derbies work for these situations as well but I personally find loafers easier to spread across a wider range of options and maximize usage if you’re trying to avoid the rabbit hole of ending up with too many shoes.

 

[WoolyLamb]

Good news is that four in hand is the simplest knot to tie and you’ve got the elements. Personally I find it helpful to look at the details of the shirt collar (point length and tie space) and lapel width when determining which knot to use and try to find something that balances - Essentially I don’t want any of the 3 to overpower the other. I personally don’t like to think about this much so I found a collar I like and stick with it and don’t have to think I just tie my tie and put on my jacket.

As for shoes - I’m not an absolutist on the oxfords with suits only but I think it’s a helpful thing to consider when getting started. Given you are wearing loafers I’ll take that to mean you’re not one of the unfortunates who can’t find loafers that fit. I personally think loafers are the easiest to get a lot of versatility out of. My most worn three pairs are a brown suede tassel loafer, a black calfskin tassel loafer and a dark brown calfskin penny loafer. They work with tailoring all the way down to jeans.

If business casual for you means chinos, button downs and knits or a vest - I think the loafers work but would consider a brown suede chukka boot in the mix. Derbies work for these situations as well but I personally find loafers easier to spread across a wider range of options and maximize usage if you’re trying to avoid the rabbit hole of ending up with too many shoes.

I had to look up that knot and apparently use that normally just didn't know that was the name. The one I used today was more trying something new. I didn't know about spacing and balancing stuff.

I'm not sure if i am an unfortunate but I suspect I will have challenges since I have different size feet with over pronation and low volume. I got the loafer bug from a pair of Sperry's drivers that I have been using for travel and occasionally a convention booth. So this is my first foray into more formal loafers. I probably should have got a traditional penny loafer in a darker brown butI fell in love with this design and found it second hand for a bargain. I am using a tongue pad and heel grippers with socks and an insole without socks. Otherwise I like boots and shoes also. I had been considering a pair of either Jodhpur or Chelsea boots in a more dress style with a burgundy color. I think I could get a lot of use from them.

I am mostly in business casual as you described but I dress up and wear blazer/sport coats/suits fairly regularly in client engagements or presenting. I do have budget constraints and would prefer to keep a more minimal shoe collection. I was planning for a dark brown suede tassel and potentially a black bit loafer or something else. I do also like the look of cordovan/burgundy tassels and penny's.

I do have a pair of J&M chukka’s in a dark brown oiled full grain I cycle in during the cooler months as well. And a cheap tan cap toe tall boot.

 

[An Acute Style]

You cannot always explain why you like one thing and dislike another. I like wide trousers and dislike narrow ones, but it's essentially a matter of personal taste, not something you can rationally explain. Yes, maybe a larger width is also more comfortable, but it's not the point. And I certainly don't pretend to have the truth, I only give my point of view, according to my taste and culture.

Don’t take this the wrong way. I don’t mind your criticism, but the critics of old on the forum lead by example. When someone said your button down collar sucks, they had posts of themselves wearing a button down collar that looked awesome. It’s hard to ignore people you’d like to emulate. They didn’t have to explain in much detail why they disliked something. You could juxtapose your photos with theirs and learn a lot. Critics who did not post pictures of themselves were not taken very seriously. Also, there was a thread/forum collective consciousness about what looked good and did not. It was not one’s POV. It was THE POV. No one apologized for the “forum’s POV”. It made it a harsh place to be at times. Much has changed in the past decade.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Don’t take this the wrong way. I don’t mind your criticism, but the critics of old on the forum lead by example. When someone said your button down collar sucks, they had posts of themselves wearing a button down collar that looked awesome. It’s hard to ignore people you’d like to emulate. They didn’t have to explain in much detail why they disliked something. You could juxtapose your photos with theirs and learn a lot. Critics who did not post pictures of themselves were not taken very seriously. Also, there was a thread/forum collective consciousness about what looked good and did not. It was not one’s POV. It was THE POV. No one apologized for the “forum’s POV”. It made it a harsh place to be at times. Much has changed in the past decade.

It really is a shame that there’s not enough consistently good fits to pull off a reboot of the good taste threak.

 

[khughes44]

New suit.

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@DapperPhilly

As good as this fit is, and it is very good, I have a small suggestion. Stay away from button down collars with double breasted jackets. I would have that shirt made again, this time with a semi spread collar. I wear button down collars with double breasted jackets frequently, but they always look somehow off to my eye. I’m stocking up on semi spreads for this reason.Here’s an excellent example from @Jmr928.

 

[JohnMRobie]

@DapperPhilly

As good as this fit is, and it is very good, I have a small suggestion. Stay away from button down collars with double breasted jackets. I would have that shirt made again, this time with a semi spread collar. I wear button down collars with double breasted jackets frequently, but they always look somehow off to my eye. I’m stocking up on semi spreads for this reason.Here’s an excellent example from @Jmr928. View attachment 1881612

Thanks for the kind words in your example. All the credit goes to my shirt maker. I really love the collar he made for me. I’m not quite all the way in on the “one shirt” concept but I’m close - I’d guess about 90% of the time I’m in tailoring I’m wearing one of these pale blue shirts.

 

[sugarbutch]

It really is a shame that there’s not enough consistently good fits to pull off a reboot of the good taste threak.

I mean, I can start posting my hoodie and PJs fits if that helps.

 

[JohnMRobie]

I mean, I can start posting my hoodie and PJs fits if that helps.

Same as it ever was, sir. Just keeping tradition alive.

Are we talking about the death of StyleForum again?

 

[DorianGreen]

Don’t take this the wrong way. I don’t mind your criticism, but the critics of old on the forum lead by example. When someone said your button down collar sucks, they had posts of themselves wearing a button down collar that looked awesome. It’s hard to ignore people you’d like to emulate. They didn’t have to explain in much detail why they disliked something. You could juxtapose your photos with theirs and learn a lot. Critics who did not post pictures of themselves were not taken very seriously. Also, there was a thread/forum collective consciousness about what looked good and did not. It was not one’s POV. It was THE POV. No one apologized for the “forum’s POV”. It made it a harsh place to be at times. Much has changed in the past decade.

Even though we can agree about that some things look generally good and some generally bad, style is eminently individual (fortunately), and one would always offer his point of view.

 

[bernoulli]

 

[JohnMRobie]

Even though we can agree about that some things look generally good and some generally bad, style is eminently individual (fortunately), and one would always offer his point of view.

I think you’re missing AAS’ point. CM on here used to be very narrowly defined and there was a fairly universally accepted forum POV to the point that there were long guides about fit, combinations and the rules.

There are sub-categories, say Ivy or Trad, that may not be to my personal taste of what I would wear but can be objectively done correctly and not need modification or critique. On the flip side there are things closer to my taste that just don’t work whether it’s fit or combination.

The goal isn’t to simply push someone to wear something to my taste but to wear what they’ve opted to wear well and this is done through an objective lens, not through whims or my personal POV.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Some helpful threads that walk through some of these things or can provide excellent inspiration.

Vox’s (archived) Coherent Combinations
Manton’s Soporific Tie P0rn thread
Whnay’s Good Taste thread
Conservative Business Dress
On pattern coordination
Conservative Business Dress WAYWRN
If You Don’t Own The Following Items, You Are Not Well Dressed
How To Wear A White Shirt
SquareFail: The most common reason you look like hell

 

[An Acute Style]

From Friday. I wanted to wear a vest/cardigan of some kind, but the two I picked out didn’t work. Looks good without. Direct sunlight vs shade photos.

 

[hpreston]

From Friday. I wanted to wear a vest/cardigan of some kind, but the two I picked out didn’t work. Looks good without. Direct sunlight vs shade photos.

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Overall 👍
Nice tie, Shoes are great!
Id like to see how this fit looks with a cardigan or odd vest.
The only nit to pick, is maybe a bit more contrast between the sport coat and trousers... maybe slightly lighter shade in the trousers, or a hair darker sport coat.

 

[An Acute Style]

Overall 👍
Nice tie, Shoes are great!
Id like to see how this fit looks with a cardigan or odd vest.
The only nit to pick, is maybe a bit more contrast between the sport coat and trousers... maybe slightly lighter shade in the trousers, or a hair darker sport coat.

My thoughts exactly. I was hoping a darker cardigan/vest would add some contrast. I think the bow tie is a little too dark given everything else is on the lighter side.