mcobinad
Senior Member
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2011
- Messages
- 604
- Reaction score
- 4,113
Thanks for your constructive criticism. This in mind, I would like to flesh out few things. Firstly, this suit and few others that I have worn of late have been items purchased from few years back when my body structure was proportionate to my suits. About last year or so, I put on massive weight and consequently my suits suffered from this change of body shape (including poppy fats here and there) and fitted snugly. Due to this development, I continued to post heavily on SF and my fits were lampooned with criticisms. To a great extent, some were done objectively, even if the critics at some point stirred up dissension amongst my cohorts here. Nevertheless, I reasoned along with them and saw the need for a change. At the time, I took the safest route by overhauling my entire wardrobe. I was too lazy to work out so I could lose weight.
Recently, I have been massively working out (running) to shed some weight so I can fit into some of my expensive suits. It would be safe to argue that I would not rebuild my 'Garde De Robe' in one night (ou en un clin d'oeil) especially if what I already have are high end items. I am progressively noticing some loss of weight and decided to give my previous suits a go. Albeit, assessing from the close range shot from my last post yesterday, the drape on the chest may not be the perfect fit, yet there is a considerable difference by a long stretch of the imagination compared to my previous fits from last year or so.
If you dig up few posts from last year where members spent considerable time pointing out elements (such as excessive button pulling on the button stance, protruding boxy shoulders, skinny trousers etc) all of which according to them needed reconsideration from their perspective. I took on board their valuable feedbacks and decided to implement their suggestions by overhauling my entire wardrobe. This action necessitated going two sizes up (going from a 38R to a 40R). Unfortunately for me and having a body structure that presents a real challenge for tailoring in the real world, some of the previous issues even going two-sizes up are still inherent. My tailor has said time without number that I will fair better going Bespoke or at the most MTM. Objectively, this is the right course of action as I would take my time to source my fabrics, design, construct and more importantly have the benefit of wearing a suit that is specifically measured and tailored to my body structure.
If you look back to my post from early last week, you would notice that the grey flannel suit (with patched pockets) I was wearing had room for me to circulate from within (it looked baggier that I would ordinarily wear) but again it shows how much effort I have made to try to buy something that fits and drapes well rather than remain adamant about effecting a change that would lend more credence to my overall outfit. Again that suit is two sizes up from my regular fit, yet again, the issue of excessive pulling from the armhole, creases from the shoulder area up to the back area are heavily present. At this point, I can objectively infer that RTW suits are not for me!
All this to say that benefiting from a softer constructed jacket will not go a long way to remedy a problem that is due in part to my physique as opposed to anything else. If not for anything, my best bet will be to take the MTM route or Bespoke which is the way forward. Going two sizes up in the RTW has not solved the problem of perfect fit even imploring the dexterity of the best artisanal tailors who know their onions. I do understand your point of view about taking advantage of an unstructured jacket construction which symmetrically follows the shoulder more closely and ensures the jacket drapes naturally to the body in a more relaxed way (especially in comparison to the constructed drape of the structured jacket). However, the problem remains one of physique and not construction, unfortunately!
Lastly, at some point, I didn't know whether to reply to your commentary or entirely ignore, as I thought 'Here We Go Again' trying to resuscitate old posts that have been done and dusted. Again looking back at your pseudo, I can't put a face to your name or having remembered any encounter with you on this forum. On this occasion, I felt compelled to state my point of view and seal this issue of inordinate ill fitted suits once and for all. I am not a conformist as I don't follow a set pattern of doing things or the way certain people would like me to do on SF. I simply observe, take on board objective elements of criticisms and implement where the need arises. I am an advocate who takes pride in rewriting the rules of fashion by using the basics as a stepping stone for excellence.
I know what to do and how to get there at my own pace and time. Thanks to all those who contributed positively to address this issue. A fortiori, I would not be revisiting this topic any longer and beg to take my leave on this subject.
I'm not a regular here, but I read the last 15 or so pages yesterday, and I noticed that your suits seem too wide and structured in the shoulder, with pants too tight in the thigh and too wide at the hem. I think you'd benefit from a softer constructed jacket, and a looser and then more tapered pant. It'd balance you out better.
Thanks for your constructive criticism. This in mind, I would like to flesh out few things. Firstly, this suit and few others that I have worn of late have been items purchased from few years back when my body structure was proportionate to my suits. About last year or so, I put on massive weight and consequently my suits suffered from this change of body shape (including poppy fats here and there) and fitted snugly. Due to this development, I continued to post heavily on SF and my fits were lampooned with criticisms. To a great extent, some were done objectively, even if the critics at some point stirred up dissension amongst my cohorts here. Nevertheless, I reasoned along with them and saw the need for a change. At the time, I took the safest route by overhauling my entire wardrobe. I was too lazy to work out so I could lose weight.
Recently, I have been massively working out (running) to shed some weight so I can fit into some of my expensive suits. It would be safe to argue that I would not rebuild my 'Garde De Robe' in one night (ou en un clin d'oeil) especially if what I already have are high end items. I am progressively noticing some loss of weight and decided to give my previous suits a go. Albeit, assessing from the close range shot from my last post yesterday, the drape on the chest may not be the perfect fit, yet there is a considerable difference by a long stretch of the imagination compared to my previous fits from last year or so.
If you dig up few posts from last year where members spent considerable time pointing out elements (such as excessive button pulling on the button stance, protruding boxy shoulders, skinny trousers etc) all of which according to them needed reconsideration from their perspective. I took on board their valuable feedbacks and decided to implement their suggestions by overhauling my entire wardrobe. This action necessitated going two sizes up (going from a 38R to a 40R). Unfortunately for me and having a body structure that presents a real challenge for tailoring in the real world, some of the previous issues even going two-sizes up are still inherent. My tailor has said time without number that I will fair better going Bespoke or at the most MTM. Objectively, this is the right course of action as I would take my time to source my fabrics, design, construct and more importantly have the benefit of wearing a suit that is specifically measured and tailored to my body structure.
If you look back to my post from early last week, you would notice that the grey flannel suit (with patched pockets) I was wearing had room for me to circulate from within (it looked baggier that I would ordinarily wear) but again it shows how much effort I have made to try to buy something that fits and drapes well rather than remain adamant about effecting a change that would lend more credence to my overall outfit. Again that suit is two sizes up from my regular fit, yet again, the issue of excessive pulling from the armhole, creases from the shoulder area up to the back area are heavily present. At this point, I can objectively infer that RTW suits are not for me!
All this to say that benefiting from a softer constructed jacket will not go a long way to remedy a problem that is due in part to my physique as opposed to anything else. If not for anything, my best bet will be to take the MTM route or Bespoke which is the way forward. Going two sizes up in the RTW has not solved the problem of perfect fit even imploring the dexterity of the best artisanal tailors who know their onions. I do understand your point of view about taking advantage of an unstructured jacket construction which symmetrically follows the shoulder more closely and ensures the jacket drapes naturally to the body in a more relaxed way (especially in comparison to the constructed drape of the structured jacket). However, the problem remains one of physique and not construction, unfortunately!
Lastly, at some point, I didn't know whether to reply to your commentary or entirely ignore, as I thought 'Here We Go Again' trying to resuscitate old posts that have been done and dusted. Again looking back at your pseudo, I can't put a face to your name or having remembered any encounter with you on this forum. On this occasion, I felt compelled to state my point of view and seal this issue of inordinate ill fitted suits once and for all. I am not a conformist as I don't follow a set pattern of doing things or the way certain people would like me to do on SF. I simply observe, take on board objective elements of criticisms and implement where the need arises. I am an advocate who takes pride in rewriting the rules of fashion by using the basics as a stepping stone for excellence.
I know what to do and how to get there at my own pace and time. Thanks to all those who contributed positively to address this issue. A fortiori, I would not be revisiting this topic any longer and beg to take my leave on this subject.