EXTREMELY ADVANCED: official oversized/next level clothing thread

[death shot]

Not as dramatic as most here, but my favorite pieces are the Ervell drop shoulder jackets. Oversized but cropped, with large armpit holes and tapered sleeves. Oversized flap on the back, thick nylon.

 

[the kidcrash]

ESSAY

glad to see essay get love, theyve been only getting better. past few seasons especially.

View attachment 1499418

the latest toogood lookbook was great, almost a return to form. it's such a bummer that their quality has totally tanked, they were one of my favs

more big from shinya kozuka

and Atha

 

[ghdvfddzgzdzg]

Atha
View attachment 1507481

wow i love this

 

[VinceCompost]

and Atha

Didn't know Atha- Looks interesting. More info pls. Link? Google not offering up much.

 

[the kidcrash]

Sure here's their gram: https://www.instagram.com/atha_osaka/

check tagged pics for their stockists and to see how ppl style it. it's a pretty young brand and a little on the pricier side but the clothes/quality are excellent and the outerwear is a standout as youd expect

Ovie Studio should just be the go-to store for this thread

 

[VinceCompost]

Thanks. Very nice looking fabrics.

 

[slvth]

@the kidcrash what about toogood makes you think their quality has dropped?

 

[the kidcrash]

@the kidcrash what about toogood makes you think their quality has dropped?

Forgive the especially long answer, I've been thinking about it for a while.

Spoiler

I've been keeping an eye on Toogood since 2017, bought/handled lots of their goods over the seasons -- I'd say I know about as much as anyone could know about them. They started strong and made really beautiful things (and some just OK things) every year until FW19. That season, they began making much of the collection in Portugal rather than London, except some outerwear, which has continued up to now

You can of course make nice things in Portugal (lots of brands do) but you can also cheap out; Toogood have opted for the latter. I've directly compared a pieces between old/new seasons (specific pieces of outerwear, various shirts, the Baker and Tinker pants and more), the difference is immediately obvious. Everything since FW19 uses cheaper fabrics, mediocre finishing/stitching and new (worse) cuts.

Their storytelling completely disappeared. For instance, they used to create original imagery and even commission a bespoke poem each season. Sure, a little theatrical, but with artisanal clothing you're paying for the 'vision' as much as the fancy clothes. They still do decent lookbooks but the clothing is just ok now. It's fine on sale, I guess, but the reasons I got excited about the brand -- the rich detailing, custom-milled textiles, hand-finished accents, the crazy nice buttons(!) -- just aren't there. Plus a lot of it just doesn't fit well or looks generic.

Couple more examples: I've owned Baker pants from SS18, FW18 and SS20, one of the pant styles I compared side-by-side. Basically, the first two Baker pants were excellent (here's a similar SS18 pair for comparison): even stitching, custom-dyed calico cotton, thick drawcords, hand-stitched hem turn-ups and so on. By comparison, the SS20 pair was clearly inferior (hard to tell from pics alone but if you had in hand it'd be obvious enough): sloppy stitches, insubstantial calico, flimsy drawstrings, terrible machine-finished hem turn-ups. I actually tried a few different SS20 Bakers to see if I just got one bad pair. Answer? They were all pretty awful.

One last comparison: a FW18 Carpenter jacket tag vs. SS20 Baker tag, just for fun.

Toogood has also begun stocking with huge stores like SSENSE and Matchesfashion and opened a web store, which I guess demands a substantial stock, and their collections have ballooned since. I believe this played a major role in the decline; When you have to fill orders for the big stores alongside a slew of global stockists, you're putting a crunch on your bottom line and something's gonna have to give.

I have some other issues with Toogood but they can wait. Really, what it comes down to is this: as a thoughtful, high-end independent brand, you can either keep stockists tight to ensure quality output (Evan Kinori, John Alexander Skelton) or drop quality for greater quantity and margins, like Toogood. Which is really sad, because they have the deep pockets necessary to slow down and readjust to again focus on craft... but so it goes.

Short answer: I've handled a lot of their clothing over the past three years and there's been a very obvious drop-off in quality most likely due to expanding stockists and a desire to bolster margins.

back on track, a couple big looks from Yoko Sakamoto

 

[aamukherjee]

A couple of looks from Sillage, a fairly new (founded sometime in 2017) and upcoming Japanese brand.

 

[sipang]

Digging this a lot

 

[Parker]

@sipang i'm getting an apres-ski burnout skater vibe ^^

this is ridiculous but kinda fun

 

[sipang]

Is that the guy from the great diy pleats trousers video posted on the other side?


@Parker hell yeah

 

[the kidcrash]

that's Louis Rubi in his own brand, havent seen the vid mentioned tho

totally agree re: yoko vibes, her stuff is nuts. SS21 is already hitting stores and its as good as ever

 

[sipang]

Here's the thread (warning: CM content)

DIY Pleated high rise trouser

.

www.styleforum.net

Here's the vid

 

[VinceCompost]

The ass doesn't look great when you do that tbh.

(Not that I was looking or anything).