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Everyday Navy jacket <$2,000

nabass

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I'm looking for a staple Navy jacket to wear with wool / flannel trousers, chinos, cords (not sure about denim) for smart casual. Budget is up to $2,000 but happy to pass less and will be ordering online. Two main questions:

First, what's the best fabric to look for? Lots of options (hopsack, flannel twill, silk and wool blends, etc) and I'm not sure what to prioritize. Looking or something in year round fabric - I live where we have four seasons but doesn't need to be ideal for hottest or coldest weather.

Second, which shop would people recommend? While there are probably hundreds of options, Cavour and the Armoury are a couple that look good to me (in part because I'm also looking at getting pants, shirts). Cavour's options range from $500-1,000 during the current winter sale, which seems like a great deal. Armoury from ~$1500 up to 3000 for their handmade line, but they do have a few under $2,000. Is there much of a quality difference between the two? I'm not sure on fabrics, with construction both are fully canvassed but beyond that I'm not sure. Fit is obviously important but something I'll have to try on to really test. Just on price Cavour seems like good deal.

Thanks!
 

Andmoreagain

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Hopsack or mockleno would both be great fabric choices with a bit of texture that you can wear most of the year. Cavour and The Armoury are both great choices - you can’t go wrong with either. I can also recommend Besnard La Haye, No Man Walks Alone, and The Anthology (out of Hong Kong and Taiwan), which has a featherweight navy blazer that’s probably a bit too light for most winters but really great the rest of the year. For more budget options Spier and Mackay is also very good and they always have some solid navy sportcoat models.
 

epsilon22

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The Armoury's Model 3/15 would be my pick, there's a dark navy balloon, some kind of mockleno Model 3 for ~1.4K. They're made by Ring Jacket in Japan, but fit very differently than Ring Jacket's domestic market models (they also produce for other retailers with different fits too). Enough texture, but still very breezy because of the open weave, and the dark navy shade is really easy to pair with other colors.

Personally I'm not a huge fan of their more premium Model 103, it has higher buttoning point, shorter jacket, less shoulder extension, but of course mostly handmade vs the mostly machine made Model 3. I suggest trying them both and other models too if you can visit their store, you may like one over the others.

I really like the jackets The Anthology make, but I don't have actual experience with them yet so I can't comment on fit. They have nice shoulder extension, slightly roped shoulder heads, and slightly leaner chest compared to Model 3. Spier & Mackay, I like their outerwear, but never tried their sport coats, I always find the shoulders a bit too close, and I prefer slight extension. No experience with Cavour either. NMWA's MTM is also quite affordable, and I may try it in the future. They seem to have quite extensive choices in terms of the detailing.
 

St1X

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My vote goes for Cavour. Amazing quality for the price and a very balanced cut.
At their sale you can just buy 2 jacket - one for a cold and one for a warm weather.
I have not handled any of the Armory's in person, but from the upclose photos I've seen online - they are nothing to write home about. Cavour has a lot more hand work for a lot less money.
 

nabass

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As an example on the fabrics, how would this hopsack differ from the flannel twill (in feel, look, weight)?



And from a materials / construction standpoint, how much would this differ from the above hopsack jacket?

 
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rdstour

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The Flannel Twill (390g) is 100g heavier than the hopsack (290g) -- the former is well suited for strictly fall/winter (unless you live in a fairly cool/colder area) and the hopsack, with its more breathable fabric, could probably be more of a 3-4 season sportcoat.

The only major differences between the two hopsacks come down to the grade of construction -- the 1st jacket is part of their handmade line...so more handmade and fine finishing. For all intents and purposes, there's no real functional differences here.

Given the needs you stated above, I think the Mod 2 English Hopsack would hit about all your requirements. I don't know that you need to buy Cavour's Handmade line stuff unless you want to pay nearly double and think you can appreciate it 2x
 

comrade

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Here''s a bunch from Andover Shop:

 

epsilon22

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My vote goes for Cavour. Amazing quality for the price and a very balanced cut.
At their sale you can just buy 2 jacket - one for a cold and one for a warm weather.
I have not handled any of the Armory's in person, but from the upclose photos I've seen online - they are nothing to write home about. Cavour has a lot more hand work for a lot less money.
Yeah the ring jacket models are machine made. No point in getting them if you don't like their styling. For the same amount of money (or even less now with the exchange rate) you'd get the handmade line Japanese ring jacket models, but of course very different styling.
 

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