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applky

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First, I just want to say along with others that it is devastating that Hertling is closing. I have never worn a pant that fits so well and so consistently, and with such fantastic fabrics. They will be dearly, dearly missed.

Glad to give them some last business. Apologies if this has been answered in a previous post, but: Mike, I'm interested in the ivory tonal seersucker as shorts. I understand that only Walts are available this time around to streamline things. If I'm a 33 Walt pant, should I size up to a 34 for the shorts to allow for extra room in the thigh?

Also, before the new additions to the sale, I had picked up the Washed Red Khyber Cloth and the Camel Moleskin. Looking forward to these pants, but overall it's such a bummer Hertling will be going away.
 

Darkside

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If anyone wants to offload a gray cavalry twill in lieu of a model that may have shown up later, I’ll take it off your hands.
 

Desi Montez

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Just got these brand new without box, can anyone tell me the difference in handgrade vs main line?
 

gandoe

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I'm unaware of my size in either the Hertling Walt or Rudy, although I'm currently in either loose 38 or tight 36 (currently trending down!). Would you suggest the Walt 36, or 34?

Or is there some other critical measurement? It appears from the webpage description that leg diameters can be described as slim?

I'm interested in the Moon Donegal Mocha, and/or Barberis Charcoal flannel. Can you tell me the fabric weight, or how well they drape?

TIA
Ed
 

gandoe

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https://www.blueowl.us/pages/measuring-guide

Click on Denim

Do this in comparison to your current fitting pants.

Cross reference with the size guide and choose. If your on the border or in between, size UP 1.

I’d suspect a 38+, these will run smaller then the brand you are wearing (most likely.)
Roger that, thanks.

Data usually helps to clarify both questions and answers!
 

Epaulet

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Hey guys, I'll be on Instagram live in about 30min (1PM PST). Feel free to shoot me over any questions there.

I'm unaware of my size in either the Hertling Walt or Rudy, although I'm currently in either loose 38 or tight 36 (currently trending down!). Would you suggest the Walt 36, or 34?

Or is there some other critical measurement? It appears from the webpage description that leg diameters can be described as slim?

I'm interested in the Moon Donegal Mocha, and/or Barberis Charcoal flannel. Can you tell me the fabric weight, or how well they drape?

TIA
Ed

@gandoe thanks for posting. If you're typically wearing a 38, then I'm imagining a 38 or 37 is going to be best in the Walt. If you're new to the shape, it's better to go larger as you can easily take it in.

The best way to get your waist size is to measure the rear waistband of a trouser (not a jean) that fits you well. Lay it flat without stretching. Whatever that number is, subtract one to get your approximate Walt waist size. So if it measures 38", you'd want a size 37 Walt.

Now, the leg diameter is a thing, but the Walt fits the vast majority of our customers. If you find that most slim-ish pants and jeans fit you well in the leg, then don't worry about it. If you're struggling with the legs being too tight on many items, then you'd want to size up either one or two. If you want to post or PM me a pic of you wearing pants or jeans that you like, I can generally tell whether the Walt pattern will work for you.
 

Michigan Planner

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@Epaulet - Any updates on the Ultrafleck cotton/silk Doyles?


In addition to picking up 2 (and possibly a 3rd and 4th) Hertling, I finally got off my rear and dropped off a stack of dusty pants at the tailor. 13 of them to be exact and mostly EP.

I know my bros have been in this situation before. Equal parts cleansing and embarrassing.

View attachment 936802

I think the most I've ever taken to the tailor at one time was 6 or 7 pair and I was embarrassed about that! I remember mentioning that to my tailor once and he said he has a few regular clients like myself who are in there all the time and occasionally come in with a whole pile of pants so I guess we're not alone.
 

Epaulet

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@Epaulet - Any updates on the Ultrafleck cotton/silk Doyles?

Should finish Monday, along with Sashiko. Ultrafleck will be ready to ship immediately... Sashiko will be the end of next week. We'll probably email the balance payment link on Sunday, so Ultrafleck guys can get the fastest turnaround. We're also getting the Doyles in REDA fresco, which should be really rad.
 

stevenkmason

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@Epaulet - Any updates on the Ultrafleck cotton/silk Doyles?




I think the most I've ever taken to the tailor at one time was 6 or 7 pair and I was embarrassed about that! I remember mentioning that to my tailor once and he said he has a few regular clients like myself who are in there all the time and occasionally come in with a whole pile of pants so I guess we're not alone.

Who's your tailor? When I worked in Birmingham I used Ali at the Birmingham Tailor and he was amazing (if a little pricey) but now I go to Judy's Alterations in Waterford. She is in her 90's I believe and still kicking ass. Sharp as a tack and does great work.
 

Michigan Planner

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Who's your tailor? When I worked in Birmingham I used Ali at the Birmingham Tailor and he was amazing (if a little pricey) but now I go to Judy's Alterations in Waterford. She is in her 90's I believe and still kicking ass. Sharp as a tack and does great work.

Ali is da man! His shop does awesome work but I agree his prices are a bit high, but just about any service in town is probably 20% more expensive than it should be. But he's very consistent in his work and never balks at fixing something until you have it just how you like it. One of the things I like about going into his shop is hearing him talk to other customers and not sugarcoating things when they want to fit into something that just isn't going to happen (some of the people in Birmingham are a real trip). IIRC, Ali's shop does some work for Linda Dresner's shop so that seems like a pretty good endorsement.

I've been going to him for a few years now. There used to be a great tailor at Maple and Telegraph (Griesser's Tailoring) but I started going to Ali when Mr. Griesser told me he was planning on retiring and shutting down and started taking a lot of vacations so they were often closed with little warning. I liked going there though because he always offered me shots of schnapps! I believe he has closed his shop completely now but he still does some contract work for Carl Sterr.

If I am getting something basic done like hemming pants or finishing sleeves on a jacket, there are a couple Romanian ladies who work out of my local dry cleaner that do really good work, are fast, and are cheap. I'm in there often enough that I don't even need to try stuff on for them anymore, they've got my measurements down pat.
 

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