Epaulet shop - Official Affiliate thread

[metranger8694]

So it's in the 60's in S. Fl. and I decide to bust out my Heirloom Charcoal Shawl Cardigan.

It's so nice but I realize that even though I'm a medium Ep. shirts and bought a 38, I think a 40 might have been the way to go to get the slouchy look?

I'm not sure how folks here have sized these for themselves.

It seems short by an inch or so but maybe I can stretch it. I've been gently pulling the bottom down.

I know it's been discussed here but I don't remember. Can this cardi be stretched 1"-2" in length and elsewhere? And how? Cold water dunk and then gently stretch?


Thanks.

 

[dalevy]

@Epaulet. Ditto. It seemed like the message prior said there was suiting.

Is it all tweeds and flannels? I'm seeing 4 categories right now. Is there a four season category that I'm missing?

Thanks! The tweeds and flannels look great.

 

[nickpapagiorgio]

Does anyone have pics of an EP x Southwick 3-piece that they wouldn't mind sharing?

 

[MKELLY]



And just to tell you guys on suits.. we're going to take delivery of a bunch of Walt Porto's in the next few days. Was supposed to arrive in LA today, but it's stuck in customs. 

We'll have a full restock of: 

Navy Barberis Pique Trouser & Jacket
Grey Barberis Pique Trouser only

And we'll bring in a beautiful Super 150s Oxford Grey Barberis Flannel. Anyone who grabbed a pair of the old factory finds in Barberis Flannel will know how good this stuff is!

The suits will have a great price (about $600 for both pieces) and will be available for immediate shipment, so we'll have you covered if you need an OTR suit for the holidays. And if you have your eye on the Grey Barberis Double Breasted in the sale section, we'll have matching trousers for it shortly

Mike -- any love for bigger dudes (54) on these? Hate that getting older (read:fatter) is starting to affect my EP buying potential.

 

[Epaulet]

@Epaulet,

We are allowed to just buy trousers from the recent Southwick collection, correct? How do we place the order? A full suit is out of my price range, but some of these fabrics are so amazing that I'd love to pick up a pair of trousers.

Thanks,
Steve

@SteveL91 yup, you'll be able to buy a Sportcoat, a Suit, or a Trouser. We'll make a separate trouser item on Monday with all of the seasonal fabrics in it.

Got my Couro Cromo steerhide shoes, thanks a lot Mike. I got the 8.5, which is what I wear in AE 5 last, and it fits really well. It's actually very comfortable, maybe even more than my AE; pretty stoked about it. Green mist moleskin also in the photo.

I also own a sportcoat in that Southwick fabric called olive with cranberry check shetland. I can take a photo if anyone is interested in how it made up.

@althanis excellent - glad that you're so pleased with them!

Is it all tweeds and flannels? I'm seeing 4 categories right now. Is there a four season category that I'm missing?

Thanks! The tweeds and flannels look great.

@peppercorn78 @dalevy

Those tweeds and flannels are the only seasonal options that we have. But if you go to the main category:

http://epauletnewyork.com/collections/special-order/Made-to-Order-Suiting

We have quite a bit of suiting, and it's been discounted significantly. Barberis suits were $1100, and now they're $885 for any of the fabrics. We did EFF suits at $825, so this is a little bit more expensive, but you have a ton of options - including basic navy's and grey's.

The Estrato suiting is absolutely fantastic. We've sold quite a bit of the Mohair and the S150s. Its gorgeous in person and it's still a pure wool. The stretch comes from the weaving technique, not any kind of synthetic fabric. It's a really comfortable luxury fiber. The colors on the mohair - especially Steel Blue - are really unstoppable. I'm ordering myself a 3 piece in that next week.

 

[SherifEnt]

The Estrato suiting is absolutely fantastic. We've sold quite a bit of the Mohair and the S150s. Its gorgeous in person and it's still a pure wool. The stretch comes from the weaving technique, not any kind of synthetic fabric. It's a really comfortable luxury fiber. The colors on the mohair - especially Steel Blue - are really unstoppable. I'm ordering myself a 3 piece in that next week.

I bought the Steel Blue Mohair suit last year and it is killer. I am definitely going to jump on another mohair or super 150 suit with these prices.

 

[kickstand]

Will orders be sent as ordered or will they all be sent to Southwick in at the end of the promo on the 22nd? Deciding whether to order now or wait.

 

[Todd V]

Mike,

Can the Dartmouth be done as a 3-roll-2? Is that appropriate? I'd think so, but I'm just a state school man...

 

[applky]

I quit buying Aldens a few years ago and have sold off most of my shell. I have only really kept a couple pairs of ravello and those are currently collecting dust.

The only shell I have left is Ravello, too.

those misorders look great

Agreed. The Murdered-Out Rydens look fantastic as is.

Hey guys,

Thanks for all of the feedback, as always... it's invaluable to hear your opinions on everything. My apologies again to anyone who was let down by this makeup - it was certainly a surprise to us.

Couple of points from my side:

1) Just to repeat, if you have a deposit on this and you decide that you don't want it, we will refund the deposit. If you can let me know by Friday, that would be appreciated. That way we can put the stock online and have a chance to sell it. Shell boots are often bought as Christmas presents, so this is a crucial time.

2) I'm disappointed that we didn't receive the boot that was spec'd, but I don't personally agree that this is a bad makeup. I think the boot looks really beautiful, actually. And the black sole will make it easier and more versatile to wear, which is important for most guys when you're talking a price level over $700. This is my opinion FWIW:

I'm a fan of light contrast - so we often order antique welts on brown and color #8. But you're talking two colors that are in the same family. Black and medium brown is much more visible. I remembering ordering quite a few makeups like that with Carmina, and none of them were very successful. They looked cool in photographs, but many of our customers disliked the contrast when it was actually on their feet. Or they saw how it might clash with many of their outfits.

If your wardrobe is really casual, then this probably doesn't matter. Many Alden customers come from the Raw Denim / Free & Easy world, and dressing up a shell cordovan boot is not a consideration. But honestly, if you're looking to match these with flannels and tweeds & such, I think that the all-black design with just the eyelet pop is really excellent. It's clean without hooks. We've failed in the past when we've attempted strictly casual Aldens, so if this makeup had been up to me, I actually would have chosen the black sole. I would have ordered it exactly as delivered.

3) I honestly wouldn't recommend getting the edge refinished. Who knows how the work is going to turn out. I'd either take the boot as is or not.

4) It's no secret that the Alden trend is over. In many ways, the Americana trend is over - which has some really sad implications. As much as people liked to beat up on things like the Pop Up Flea or #menswear stuff that bordered on self-parody, the passion for American-made goods supported a lot of jobs and ambitions that I've personally seen. If we didn't have the ability to start our collection in the United States, I wouldn't have a business now. Things are not easy for any of my factories in the USA, and who knows if they'll still be here in 5 years. It's clear that many things have to change.

Alden is the best shoemaker in the United States. Admittedly, the competition isn't too rough. And I'd agree... with the current exchange rates, you can absolutely source a better-made product for the same money from Europe. Having visited both Alden and Vass, I will confirm that Vass products are made with an entirely different level of skill. But it's obviously much more expensive to employ people in Massachusetts than it is in the outskirts of Budapest.

That said... we're talking fashion here, so cold & logical comparisons are not really valid. Vass is cheaper than Edward Green by a huge margin, and I don't think that Edward Green is better. I don't think that Saint Crispins is better. But people buy what they like due to style, fit, and branding.

The Aldens that we carry have a distinctive look, fit, and shape that no one else delivers. Look at the shape of the Ryden. In my mind, it's a perfect chunky s***kicker of a boot. We tried to order things like that from Carmina on the Forest last, and it was never the same. Always a bit too sleek or "wrong" at the toe shape. Trickers makes a chunky boot, but sometimes looks a bit too chunky - and borders on clown shoe. Alden strikes a very unique balance in their design - which is why you can spot a pair of shell Aldens from a mile away. They stand out. And your money is going to an honest company - even if they are kind of lousy with communication. I don't get the impression that Alden's management is rolling in dough. I do get the impression that much of their revenue goes straight to their unionized workforce. I know that many customers choose to buy Alden products because supporting craftsman jobs in the United States is important to them. So that's my very long answer as to why someone might opt for a $775 Alden over a slightly more expensive European product that delivers with more speed and design flexibility.

5) I didn't take this an F.U. from Alden and I don't believe that you guys should either. They are stuck in the past, which is a big part of their appeal for many people. They've never treated me rudely or dismissively... and believe me, those attitudes are totally common in this industry. This is simply how they work and both vendors and customers can take it or leave it. They've certainly got challenges ahead of them - which we all do - so it's an open question as to how sustainable that position is. But it's not coming from malice, and they do take pride in what they make.

All that stuff said...I built out a stock Ryden item. I'll give you guys that same historic price, but they'll be the full $775 for any new dudes stumbling upon it. Here's the link:

RYDEN BOOT OPEN STOCK

And you can use this code to get $40 and make it the group buy price. We've got a 9.5D and an 8.5EEE so far:

Ryden for our friends

Great post Mike. The bolded part above is part of why it's still important to me to support Alden, Southwick, Gitman, and other businesses with longstanding commitments to their workforce and fair labor practices. (Can I assume Hertling also falls under this umbrella?)

 

[nd1nd2nd3]

@Epaulet
Is the Shetland/Donegal item still being updated? Except for the photos, the drop down and everything is identical to the Harris tweed item.

 

[Epaulet]

@Epaulet
Is the Shetland/Donegal item still being updated? Except for the photos, the drop down and everything is identical to the Harris tweed item.

@nd1nd2nd3 ah yes, sorry about that - I'm gonna be working most of this evening to get everything fully fleshed out. We'll drop the NL tomorrow on it (at least planning that) and I'll get the balance of the videos done on Monday. I can also compare one fabric against another on request - I'll do that via Instagram.

The only shell I have left is Ravello, too.


Agreed. The Murdered-Out Rydens look fantastic as is.


Great post Mike. The bolded part above is part of why it's still important to me to support Alden, Southwick, Gitman, and other businesses with longstanding commitments to their workforce and fair labor practices. (Can I assume Hertling also falls under this umbrella?)

Thanks! @applky

We've had about six cancellations on the Ryden, and they're built into the stock item for anyone interested. We'll put that in a newsletter next week.

And yes sir, Hertling is definitely in the same vein. It's not a union shop because it's very small - they only have about 35 employees. Many of them have worked for Julie Hertling for well in excess of 20 years. But the Hertling staff absolutely needs this work, and they're uniquely skilled at it. It will always be an integral part of our collection.

Mike,

Can the Dartmouth be done as a 3-roll-2? Is that appropriate? I'd think so, but I'm just a state school man...

@Todd V unfortunately no.. the Dartmouth is only made as a two button, and only with that partial butterfly liner. Its the shape that I designed with Southwick and I strongly feel that it's the best fitting coat that they currently offer. It uses the same construction concept as the Vittorio, and it soft lapel and shoulder really fits an impressive rangIt's e or physiques. It's very light and comfortable.

It's intended to have that cropped European look in the body, but you can certainly do a Long body if you want it more trad. And I'd definitely encourage everyone to measure their sleeve inseam and get the exact length that they need. This is usually a $75 upcharge, but SW is going to waive that for us. Many of you guys are long repeat customers for this merchandise, and delivering a nicely finished sleeve and proper sleeve length is important.

Will orders be sent as ordered or will they all be sent to Southwick in at the end of the promo on the 22nd? Deciding whether to order now or wait.

@kickstand we'll send the orders within 24 hours of receiving them, so if you order in the next week, you'll have it mid-January. Orders on the 22nd are probably arriving early Feb. This isn't a group buy, it's really just a temporary 25 - 30% discount on prices for us - in the goal of sparking some business in a generally slow time for their custom shop.

I bought the Steel Blue Mohair suit last year and it is killer. I am definitely going to jump on another mohair or super 150 suit with these prices.

@SherifEnt I remember! That suit came out absolutely beautiful. We can hang out as a gang when mine arrives. Get a few more dudes onto it and we'll be a like motown version of "Reservoir Dogs"

Mike -- any love for bigger dudes (54) on these? Hate that getting older (read:fatter) is starting to affect my EP buying potential.

@MKELLY yes sir! We made two units of size 54 (US 44) AND two units of 56 (US46). Just in Navy. Stock trouser sizes have been extended to 37 and 38 as well. And we're doing 29's on the smaller side.

Going forward, you'll see a lot of our stock trousers being made in Portugal. The quality to price ration is incredible on them, and we'll establish our basics program there. As the sizing is consistent with Hertling, it will hopefully be a way to get a lot of new guys in the door for our MTO, EFF, and special order programs here in the States.

Does anyone have pics of an EP x Southwick 3-piece that they wouldn't mind sharing?

@nickpapagiorgio oh man, David has an awesome 3-piece tweed suit, I'll see if he's got any fit photos. If not, we can get some pics next week

So it's in the 60's in S. Fl. and I decide to bust out my Heirloom Charcoal Shawl Cardigan.

It's so nice but I realize that even though I'm a medium Ep. shirts and bought a 38, I think a 40 might have been the way to go to get the slouchy look?

I'm not sure how folks here have sized these for themselves.

It seems short by an inch or so but maybe I can stretch it. I've been gently pulling the bottom down.

I know it's been discussed here but I don't remember. Can this cardi be stretched 1"-2" in length and elsewhere? And how? Cold water dunk and then gently stretch?


Thanks.

@metranger8694 don't dunk it in cold water, although you can spray some water on it if you want. But the best way is to wear the cardigan and have someone else evenly and slowly pull down on the sweater.

I just picked up the grey double breasted! Looking forward to getting matching trousers!

@Nik Telford oh rad, that's gonna look great on you. It's so good with your Artisan collar shirts!

And guys ask me all of the time about what to wear with grey jackets - many of them think that it can only be worn with the matching pant. I think that this can be easily worn with charcoal trousers, navy trousers, and cream or off-white. A grey sportcoat with cream trousers actually looks really boss.

 

[theh00d]

Did I just read correctly that there will be size 29 in stock trouser?

 

[metranger8694]

@metranger8694 don't dunk it in cold water, although you can spray some water on it if you want. But the best way is to wear the cardigan and have someone else evenly and slowly pull down on the sweater.

Whoa, glad I didn't....How long might it take, and can it, to get maybe 1-2 inches stretch?

The fabric so far has been acting like a slinky.

But I love this cardi......

Thanks.

 

[cyclohexane]

Mike, is the Dartmouth the same as what was previously described as "unconstructed"?

I highly recommend the unconstructed fit... very friendly to weight fluctuations too.

I need another suit like I need a hole in the head, but I always like looking at new fabrics. I need tweed even less (if I move anywhere, it'll likely be somewhere even warmer)...

 

[applky]

EDIT: taken