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aldenfan

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Sorry to keep asking, but I want to make sure my earlier post doesn't get buried... Any word on Luigi Bianchi Mantova MTO feasibility? Every time I visit your site I see the Vittorio Loro Piana Windowpane Sportcoat and wish I could get it in my size
nod[1].gif
 

Mr. Six

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I'm thinking about using smoke MOP buttons for the special edition - what do you guys think of that? Too formal? I think that it could be cool, but I'm also a sucker for those buttons.


What about wooden buttons on the chambray Doyle?
 

Epaulet

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Mike, How did the G&L overdye Wilshire project come out?
We should have it in the next day or two - sorry that this got so delayed. I have to get them this week so I can ship everything from Cali. The factory is definitely on it.
Mike-- How are the Fairfax jeans coming along?
Good, arranging for the first fit sample next week. I can't wait - these will be the first jeans that I own in like 5 years.
If the sizing's different, what does that mean for those of us at the far-end of EP's sizing? A current XL barely fits, and the sportcoats and such only go up to 42 without an MTO (putting them beyond me). Will the overdyed oxfords work?
These XL's are definitely going to be too small on you. That said, we've had a lot of success with these new EPLA products, so you can expect our wovens to go up to XXL and the Doyle's to go out to size 44 a stock items in future runs. I end up evaluating things item by item and as long as there's reasonable demand for a size, then we definitely want to supply it.
I have to admit that I think I prefer the original collar point size... Them's the breaks though. Looking forward to seeing all the new options.
They're not actually that far off - the production collar is only about 1/3" shorter than the sample. These shirts had a really great reception at the event, and I think that you guys will dig them. They're definitely a lot more casual than what we typically make, but it works well in the LA context.
FF Gitman medium. Really happy with the quality. I agree the fit on this is a little bulkier than the usual Epaulet M. I may take in the sleeves just a wee bit.
Sharp! The pattern looks great on that.
Got the pale grey hopsack Walts, but have yet to hem them. My instinct is a fairly high no break no cuff, which is how I do my linen Walts. Should I try a 2" cuff? Concerned about not being able to wear them less formally. BTW those Walts are amazing.
Awesome! So, everyone has their own opinions on this, but I'd vote no break and no cuff. I think that cuffs work better on thicker fabrics (flannel, tweed) and I prefer a clean hem on lighter ones.
Mike, will you guys be carrying the Driggs in other Duck Canvas fabrics besides washed caramel? Thanks!
Probably. We've got the Driggs already coming in UK Sanded Canvas, and we'll keep rolling out new fabrics on that shape. I don't have any Duck's on board, but I imagine that we'll do some in the Fall.
I apologize for asking the question again, but in case I missed an update: any word on the Vass MTO double monks?
Should be here any week now, the Museum calf finally arrived earlier in the season. I don't have an update as of yet, but hopefully soon.
Sorry to keep asking, but I want to make sure my earlier post doesn't get buried... Any word on Luigi Bianchi Mantova MTO feasibility? Every time I visit your site I see the Vittorio Loro Piana Windowpane Sportcoat and wish I could get it in my size
nod%5B1%5D.gif
Yup, this is absolutely happening. I'm getting fabric swatches this week for all of the available MTO options and we'll look to put them up by next week.
What about wooden buttons on the chambray Doyle?
I thought about that, but I'm not seeing any here that I'm in love with. I think that sticking with our existing buttons is the best course - they've proven to be really popular, and rather than spend a lot on special buttons, we can cut the price down and give everyone a great deal on the jacket.
 

malwear

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FF Gitman medium.  Really happy with the quality.  I agree the fit on this is a little bulkier than the usual Epaulet M.  I may take in the sleeves just a wee bit.


Mike, does this mean that all of the FF mediums have shipped? Or are we still waiting on some?
 

Pastor

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If I'm a 42R in the Southwick suit jackets will I also be a 42 in the Doyle? The suit jackets fit perfect with little to no room to spare. I want to get in on the special edition Doyle but I'm unsure of what size I will need as I thought I read that they ran a little small.
 

Don L

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If I'm a 42R in the Southwick suit jackets will I also be a 42 in the Doyle? The suit jackets fit perfect with little to no room to spare. I want to get in on the special edition Doyle but I'm unsure of what size I will need as I thought I read that they ran a little small.
I am the same size and have a 42 Doyle. It is close fitting but I have been wearing the hell out of it and love it. I wear it like I would a sweater so nothing bulky under it anyway.
 

Epaulet

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If I'm a 42R in the Southwick suit jackets will I also be a 42 in the Doyle? The suit jackets fit perfect with little to no room to spare. I want to get in on the special edition Doyle but I'm unsure of what size I will need as I thought I read that they ran a little small.


I am the same size and have a 42 Doyle.  It is close fitting but I have been wearing the hell out of it and love it.  I wear it like I would a sweater so nothing bulky under it anyway.


^ I'd agree with Don that it should work. I wear a 41 in Southwick and can fit a 40 Doyle, although it's a tight fit. The 42 would fit fine with a little tailoring in the body. Compared to our sportcoats, it's got a good amount of parity. I think that many guys who are sizing up are sizing up from their typical jacket size, and that the typical jacket runs larger than our SW design.

That said, I'm checking with the factory to see if we can offer odd sizes. When in doubt, go up by an inch. The Doyle is extremely easy to tailor (plain cuffs, no liner, taped interior seams) so if it comes in a touch big then it can be easily shaped to fit. It's pre-washed and pre-shrunk, so your try on size is the correct final size. I'll know by today if we can offer this. I'd get a 41 for myself.

EDIT: This is confirmed, we can offer odd sizes in the Doyle for this project. So if you feel like you're on the edge of an odd size, then just go up one, it should work out great.
 
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aldenfan

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I have a question for all the guys who have purchased Driggs trousers. I'm looking for a slim chino that has a lower rise and slim legs. I have some RC and I like them but the leg opening for the size I wear still isn't very slim. I tried incotex and like them except they are a tad too slim in the calf area (they hug my calves and have no drap in that area). How does the Driggs compare to (1) the RC and (2) incotex trousers in the fit? I see the cotton and cashmere and those look like an excellent casual business pant.
 

MaxK

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How much might the sweatshirts shrink given a wash and dry? The small fits me perfectly (I'm a bit between small and medium in shirt sizes), but wouldn't want it to shrink up too much.
 

MacktasticGDogg

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That said, I'm checking with the factory to see if we can offer odd sizes. When in doubt, go up by an inch. The Doyle is extremely easy to tailor (plain cuffs, no liner, taped interior seams) so if it comes in a touch big then it can be easily shaped to fit. It's pre-washed and pre-shrunk, so your try on size is the correct final size. I'll know by today if we can offer this. I'd get a 41 for myself.


That would be awesome if you can offer odd sizes for the special edition Doyle. I have a size 40 and it fits me fine except I wish the shoulder was a little narrower. The specs on size 38 seems like it would work but I'm concerned about the chest being a little tight. A size 39 could be perfect.
 

Epaulet

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How much might the sweatshirts shrink given a wash and dry? The small fits me perfectly (I'm a bit between small and medium in shirt sizes), but wouldn't want it to shrink up too much.


Provided that you stick with cold wash and tumble dry (no frying it in the dryer), then the sweatshirts shouldn't have any permanent change at all.

Everything that we make in LA is washed and/or garment dyed. We work everything out on a CAD system and enlarge the patterns so that we get a correct post-wash measurement.

The denim is not intended to be dried, but I think that most people are used to hang-drying jeans, denim jackets, and denim shirts. Anything that isn't denim (EPLA wovens, tees, sweatshirts, upcoming sweat pants, Doyle) has already gone through fairly intensive washing, so you won't get any change with a low-heat tumble dry.

That said, I'd still advise hang-drying anything that you can. It makes a real difference in the lifespan of your garments. I only dry underwear, towels, workout stuff in strange blends, and t-shirts that I don't care about. Everything else is put on a drying rack. Saves you electricity and money too!

I have a question for all the guys who have purchased Driggs trousers. I'm looking for a slim chino that has a lower rise and slim legs. I have some RC and I like them but the leg opening for the size I wear still isn't very slim. I tried incotex and like them except they are a tad too slim in the calf area (they hug my calves and have no drap in that area). How does the Driggs compare to (1) the RC and (2) incotex trousers in the fit? I see the cotton and cashmere and those look like an excellent casual business pant.


They're definitely slimmer than the RC.

I haven't seen anyone take issue with the calf on the Driggs, and if you're finding that the RC has too much room around the calf, then I think that you should be fine with the Driggs. A guy with really large calves for our pattern would probably find the RC calf to be fine or even a bit too tailored.

Driggs trousers that are MTO have full seam allowances and are not washed, so you can also tailor the legs in or out if you want to customize the fit after they arrive. That cotton-cash is beautiful.
 

zinc2162

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Apologize if this has been asked before. I bought a LBM 1911 recently and the sleeves are about one inch too long. I think I should get the waist taken in a bit as well. Are these jobs relatively easy for a good tailor? Since the coat has working cuffs, do I have to move the button up as well when shortening the sleeves? Thanks in advance.
 

Todd V

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Mike --

Would it be ridiculous for me to buy a sweatshirt and have it shortened by the neighborhood alternations shop? I'm rather short and I'd need to bring the hem up by about 1.5" maybe 2".
 

Epaulet

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Apologize if this has been asked before. I bought a LBM 1911 recently and the sleeves are about one inch too long. I think I should get the waist taken in a bit as well. Are these jobs relatively easy for a good tailor? Since the coat has working cuffs, do I have to move the button up as well when shortening the sleeves? Thanks in advance.


The waist is easy as the jacket is unlined and (most likely) a cotton blend. It's a simple procedure, you just need a tailor who can correctly estimate how much to take it in. I've done things like this plenty of times.

The sleeves are going to more difficult. You can either shorten about a half inch and leave the buttonholes as they are. Or you'll have to get it shorted at the shoulder, which will requires a good tailor. It's certainly possible to do, and we've had several customers do it.

Mike --

Would it be ridiculous for me to buy a sweatshirt and have it shortened by the neighborhood alternations shop? I'm rather short and I'd need to bring the hem up by about 1.5" maybe 2".


Not ridiculous at all. I'm always encouraging customers to know and use their local tailors. So many guys spend forever trying to find the perfect fit on a casual item, when you can just work with a tailor to customize an OTR piece exactly as you want it. It should be no problem whatsoever to do that on our sweatshirts. Our first sample came in about an inch too long, so the factory shortened it for me on the spot (took about 5 min) so that I could approve the actual production length.
 

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