Cucinelli Keeps Looking Forward

[RapFan]

Price aside I think BC is a stellar brand. They have nailed understated luxury like no one else.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Price aside, what makes you say their tailored line to be "totally unattractive"?

The gorge, lapel width are all quite conservative. The notch and peak lapels on their single breasted blazer looks - to be FAIR - quite nice and attractive. Their fit off the rack is also quite nice and is true to size. Isn't crazy skinny or offsize or anything.

Have you ever tried their tailoring recently?

I wouldn’t call it totally unattractive but the make is really not particularly well done and they run short and cropped. The trousers are also wildly skinny.

 

[rwtc]

I wouldn’t call it totally unattractive but the make is really not particularly well done and they run short and cropped. The trousers are also wildly skinny.

Can you please clarify what you mean by they "run short and cropped"?

I own a large number of tailored garments from BC, going back years to their current collection, and this genuinely has never been an issue that I've experienced personally.

The suit trousers are absolutely not "wildly skinny". There is plenty of room all the way from the cuff, to the thigh, and to the seat area. I have very large thighs and have found BC to be one of the few brands off the rack that had enough space in the area to actually accommodate for that.

On the other hand, a brand whose trousers that actually did run comically skinny is Kiton from a few years ago, but now their fit is getting better....

 

[JohnMRobie]

Can you please clarify what you mean by they "run short and cropped"?

I own a large number of tailored garments from BC, going back years to their current collection, and this genuinely has never been an issue that I've experienced personally.

The suit trousers are absolutely not "wildly skinny". There is plenty of room all the way from the cuff, to the thigh, and to the seat area. I have very large thighs and have found BC to be one of the few brands off the rack that had enough space in the area to actually accommodate for that.

On the other hand, a brand whose trousers that actually did run comically skinny is Kiton from a few years ago, but now their fit is getting better....

I’ve tried them. Owned 3 suits and a sport coat. Donated them all. BC jackets in a 50 are mostly in the 29.25-29.5” length. Closer to most brands “short” sizes. If a guy is normally a 50C then they don’t have an issue. If you’re not, well, you’re out of luck as BC doesn’t sell Long sizes that would be closer to another brands regular. The trouser leg opening is also sub-7” on most of their suiting in an 50 and the rise is low. There’s nothing flattering about a short jacket and low rise trouser.

 

[rwtc]

BC jackets in a 50 are mostly in the 29.25-29.5” length.

The 29.25 - 29.5" jacket length is correct.

Kiton's current season tailored jackets, size 40R, run 29 inches in length. Attolini's 40R from their current collection runs 29.5 inches. So this is really not out of the norm....

The trouser leg opening is also sub-7” on most of their suiting in an 50 and the rise is low.

Just checked a few of my suits. Rise is 14 inches and leg opening was 7.25 unhemmed. Cucinelli's rise I find actually is usually on the longer side....

I don't think I've ever seen a sub 7" cuff opening on dress trousers from Cucinelli. The lowest I've seen is 7 inches. But I could be wrong because I haven't owned thousands of jackets / trousers from them to definitively say that they've never produced anything of the sort...

 

[TomTom]

"Men will spend $3000 to look like this"

Is this Uniqlo? Because it sure looks like it.

 

[JohnMRobie]

The 29.25 - 29.5" jacket length is correct.

Kiton's current season tailored jackets, size 40R, run 29 inches in length. Attolini's 40R from their current collection runs 29.5 inches. So this is really not out of the norm....




Just checked a few of my suits. Rise is 14 inches and leg opening was 7.25 unhemmed.

I don't think I've ever seen a sub 7" cuff opening on dress trousers from Cucinelli. The lowest I've seen is 7 inches. But I could be wrong because I haven't owned thousands of jackets / trousers from them to definitively say that they've never produced anything of the sort...

If they fit you that’s great. But it’s not the norm and it isn’t really neapolitan. Hell - Even SuSu who is widely mocked on here as selling the short cropped look has a 30” jacket in a size 40US.

The make is also really pretty poor on their tailoring outside of some decorative handwork. But if it’s your thing and it fits you go for it, I’ll stick to my bespoke Neapolitan stuff.

 

[rwtc]

If they fit you that’s great. But it’s not the norm and it isn’t really neapolitan. Hell - Even SuSu who is widely mocked on here as selling the short cropped look has a 30” jacket in a size 40US.

The make is also really pretty poor on their tailoring outside of some decorative handwork. But if it’s your thing and it fits you go for it, I’ll stick to my bespoke Neapolitan stuff.

My only point was - the jacket length is the norm from the major Neapolitan houses for RTW. It is what it is

 

[RapFan]

My only point was - the jacket length is the norm from the major Neapolitan houses for RTW. It is what it is

Of anything I've noticed a little extra room in some of the cuts. I'm a 50 IT and certain BC coats only fit me in 48

 

[Johnny80]

My only point was - the jacket length is the norm from the major Neapolitan houses for RTW. It is what it is

You are right...is there with Kiton and Luciano Barbera etc while Isaia Capri is what i would call it short but they offer also Domenico line that is long. Attolini is right there with an half inch longer than Kiton. While at that price i go for normal R8 Isaia, i dont deny their smart thinking not to compete with the big names and go for something different in style that for some is appealing and for others is not. For normal suits/sport jackets i still go with Kiton R8/Attolini R7/Isaia R8 but for someone else i think these kind of style really speak for them and i applaud BC for doing so while keeping their core of the brand

 

[rwtc]

Of anything I've noticed a little extra room in some of the cuts. I'm a 50 IT and certain BC coats only fit me in 48

That's right, I find the same thing for outerwear. Certain models, like their bomber, fit one size larger. I think it has to do with how they encourage layering underneath their outerwear, but your guess is as good as mine.

I find the sleeves on their tailored jackets with the finished buttons also tend to run a bit longer as well.

 

[diokanye]

I think alot of yall live in the US and unfortunately only see what US stores buy, which is to say they buy what sells in the US: slimmer pants, shorter jackets etc. That look for BC was the norm but has increasingly gone away in the last 3-4 years.

The trouser silhouette that is most representative of the brand (look at the looks that are presented in press releases or in Vogue) are the following:

 

[rwtc]

I think alot of yall live in the US and unfortunately only see what US stores buy, which is to say they buy what sells in the US: slimmer pants, shorter jackets etc. That look for BC was the norm but has increasingly gone away in the last 3-4 years.

The trouser silhouette that is most representative of the brand (look at the looks that are presented in press releases or in Vogue) are the following:


View attachment 1874432
View attachment 1874430

Out of curiosity which two fits are those?

 

[diokanye]

Out of curiosity which two fits are those?

The fits are constantly changing (as well as the names) but the white cargo is smooth fit and the navy is leisure.

 

[RapFan]

I am an avid Cucinelli fan and have no shame in it. I think he has done a fantastic job of making timeless and elegant clothing, and I believe he has turned boring neutral colored basics into standout pieces.

I think material wise he is at the very top. Similar to Tom Ford he has created a house style that is distinctive enough that it doesnt need a logo to be recognized.

I own a pair of Cucinelli suede summer walkers and they are made from the thickest piece of leather I have ever seen on a shoe.

His sweaters speak for themselves.

His dress shirts are the softest cotton with very thick MOP buttons. Shoulders, sleeve cuffs and collar attached by hand

His suits are definitely a tad ambitiously priced, but you will not easily find the styling anywhere. I also own quite a few Eleventy jackets as a cheaper alternative, but the difference in quality of fabrics and construction is huge.