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Crockett & Jones for Ralph Lauren Cordovan (Marlow, Darlton, Gifford, Garran, Lindrick, McCallum, Rh

chipshot

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Does anybody know of a good cobbler in the Phoenix/Scottsdale area who does recessed metal taps. I sent a couple pair of Marrlows back to Crocett & Jones NY to have done and they charge $60 per pair. Then you have the long wait with shipping back and forth with additional shipping costs/insurance.

I call local cobblers and ask if they do recessed or flush mounted metal taps and they don't have a clue as to what I am talking about. I hear Nicky B or V's NYC is around $35 a pair.

Crockett & Jones use a tap called a LULU from France I believe and they don't have to cut the toe stitching. Help! Even an LA guy would work better than NY.
 

Papa Doble

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bucksfan

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I'm a perfect 11.5 D on the AE 5 last. Not sure if these would be too big. Worth a shot? I guess we'll see how high the price goes.


I'm 12d on the 5 last, and got these in 12d. The fit is great. The sole is pretty stiff, but once broken in I get no heel slip.
 

Snedley

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Sure, but most cobblers butcher the leather sole before gluing the Topy on.

Remove the Topy and you have a few millimeters off the bottom of the sole plus penetration of glue into the leather.

It is also impossible to tell whether or not the "cobbler" has disturbed the stitching because the Topy is glued over it.

This is the perfect way to turn a premium $850 shoe into a $300 special. The "cobbler" who did this should be taken out into a back alley and shot!

A real mess.

Leather soles need a good dressing of "Ledersohlenöl" to prepare them for wear if you want a sole to remain healthy and resistant to excessive wear. See http://www.burgol.de/products/ledersohlenoel

Every shoe I have bought and put that product on from before first use has had a major reduction in wear to the sole, an increase in the life of the sole and an improved ability to flex without disturbing the upper.

Not only that, but when the first layer of sole is worn sufficiently it becomes possible to resole with a "Daenite" if you really want a rubber bottom sole.

Daenite at least simulates natural leather reasonably well, Topy does not.

Those Marlows are basically no better than second hand now, and $250 - $300.00 is about the value of a good second hand pair.
Sure, you can use that sole oil for $35 a bottle or just use Kiwi Mink Oil for $3. I've been rubbing it into the leather soles of my shoes for 40 years. Perhaps 2-3 times a year. Even if you don't want to use it on the shoe itself it's good to help waterproof the leather soles and keep them supple.
 

mrpo0nani

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I wear a 7.5D on the barrie last is it regular that when I tried on an 8.5 it fit better than the 8?

What's stretch like on these? Thanks.
 

Papa Doble

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NAMOR

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^ they have. I had a pair with a similar issue. I believe it's a commonality amoungst all the RL ptbs. I've never seen it with any other make/model
 

bellyhungry

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My Marlow seems to have dried up a little bit and I could see some minor water spots (yes, I did wear them under light rain once or twice.)

What is the best way to get rid of the water spots and restore the suppleness?
 

dieworkwear

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My Marlow seems to have dried up a little bit and I could see some minor water spots (yes, I did wear them under light rain once or twice.)
What is the best way to get rid of the water spots and restore the suppleness?


Try brushing with a horsehair brush, and then smoothing the leather with a deer bone. Both things can be bought at A Suitable Wardrobe's store.

Lacking a deer bone, you can more or less get the same effect with the curved side of a metal spoon.
 

bellyhungry

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Try brushing with a horsehair brush, and then smoothing the leather with a deer bone. Both things can be bought at A Suitable Wardrobe's store.
Lacking a deer bone, you can more or less get the same effect with the curved side of a metal spoon.


Thank you. Will give that a try....
 

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