Crockett & Jones - Aesthetics?

[Goodman]

Good timing on this thread. Stopped into Paul Stuart the other day to check out the sale. Selected 3 shoes to try on and, to my surprise, I chose a C&J on the 348 last. (I believe it's the Exmoor in the burnished mahogany). I agree that the 348 last is a bit elongated but I thought it looked quite spiffy in blucher form (and I'm not really a blucher fan). Now, they also had a 348 in a 2 eyelet derby which would be appropriate for a spiffy clown. Those appear really elongated. There was another guy there checking out shoes - we started talking shoes and he clearly new his stuff - and he also ended up getting the Exmoor even though he went in specifically to try on a couple of their A&S models.

Moral of the story, wear what you like not what an internet forum tells you to.

 

[Chuckie Egg]

If you feel the C&J are not to your liking, you might as well cut your losses and sell them. There's no point keeping shoes you don't wish to wear.

 

[JubeiSpiegel]

OP, what were your thoughts on the 341 last? Might fit your aesthetics better...

 

[othertravel]



Good timing on this thread. Stopped into Paul Stuart the other day to check out the sale. Selected 3 shoes to try on and, to my surprise, I chose a C&J on the 348 last. (I believe it's the Exmoor in the burnished mahogany). I agree that the 348 last is a bit elongated but I thought it looked quite spiffy in blucher form (and I'm not really a blucher fan). Now, they also had a 348 in a 2 eyelet derby which would be appropriate for a spiffy clown. Those appear really elongated. There was another guy there checking out shoes - we started talking shoes and he clearly new his stuff - and he also ended up getting the Exmoor even though he went in specifically to try on a couple of their A&S models.

Moral of the story, wear what you like not what an internet forum tells you to.

The 348 is a great last. I bought a pair of Tetbury's and it's a fine boot to wear with a suit.

 

[Harrydog]

Posh, since you are in NY, just get into stores and try stuff on. I can't say I agree with what I am getting as your aesthetic tastes. I own nothing by Bally, Ferragamo, or Gucci. and to be honest don't plan to. For example, I think the Ferragamo blucher you posted, it is almost a chukka boot, is hideous. I have no idea what one would wear that with. I certainly wouldn't wear it with a suit. If I wanted something like that, I'd go with the Corthay Arca (even if in black),

You say you don't like square-toed shoes, then post the Lobb Beckett which is on Lobb's square 8000 last. So I guess you do like sguare toed shoes. Now Kenneth Cole monstrosities...quite a different story. Here are some other Lobb's (which by the way are generally seen as rather conservative shoes.) Here is the Lobb Sutton on the square chisel last. (8000)

Since you are a young guy with perhaps more fashion forward taste, you might want to check out Corthay or Gaziano-Girling.

Corthay

G & G (this is their smart round last, DG70. The also have a smart and soft sguare ( TG73 and MH71)

Here is an Alfred Sargent for Paul Stuart. I can't see how this could be seen as too conservative.

Edward Green on the 82 last (my favorite Edward Green last)

Carmina has some very nice styles ( inca last for a rounded toe, Simpson or Rain for a squared toe) I haven't take any pics, but have a number of styles. They do a very nice single and double Monk.

Bontoni Saddle Derby

I could go on and on. Since you are in the city. Get into Leffot down in the village. Check out Carmina at Epaulet. (Get your size confirmed and then get on line. Skoaktiebolaget in Sweden has some great styles at great prices.) Get into Paul Stuart. Go on line to Bespoke-England and drool over the G&G. (I wear a bib when I am looking at the MTO picture gallery.) These are my favorite places to shoe shop.

Hope this helps. And I agree, put the C&J up for sale and cut your losses. At least the Connaught; the Hallam may grow on you. (I agree with other posters that the 348 is not a conservative last.) It is interesting to note that you purchased two captoe...pretty classic styles.

 

[jaywhyy]

I also forgot to mention Septieme Largeur. They are goodyear-welted, and their lasts are round-toed and sleek. They also have the tightest waists I've seen on a $300 shoe. And you can get a custom patina which you'll likely be interested in, considering your tastes.

 

[jssdc]



Thanks for the list. I will look out for those next time I go out shopping.

However, one thing I've learned from my miserable experience with C&J is that once a shoe quality is of somewhat decent level, after that, you should worry far more about the shoe 'fit' and 'style', more than marginal quality differences or 'brand name' differences.

I don't care that C&J shoes are well-regarded and well built. I think these shoes are ugly, and I can't seem to wear them willingly. 

Jesus, son, if you don't like the C&J you bought then sell them, but quit carrying on about it. If you like those awful Farragamo's you posted, I can't imagine what possessed you to think that you would like Connaughts just by looking at photos on the Internet. Why you didn't go look at them in person (on 56th between 5th and 6th - take the E or M to 53rd and 5th) before buying is beyond me Absent that you could have returned the shoes before wearing them. It should be plainly obvious to someone ho digs Guccis that the 236 last won't suit. I'm not particularly fashion-forward and the 236 is too conservative for me in an Oxford.

Bottom line is that you made a rash Internet purchase and fucked up, and rather than shoulder the responsibility you're attempting to make your failure an aesthetic indictment of an entire brand (and by removal the people who wear it).

 

[YRR92]

Italian brands to look out for (IMHO):

Reliably excellent:
Lattanzi
Santoni Fatta a Mano
Salvatore Ferragamo Tramezza
Kiton (if you like the crazy antiquing)

Worth considering, produce some very good lines and models, but also less good stuff:
Gravati
Sutor Matellassi
Borglioli Fratelli (for Rider Boot Co., but they make some crap too)
Paolo Scafora, Napoli
Stemar
Bruno Magli Platinum Line (not normal Bruno Magli)

Not as good as they used to be, but you'll still find some nice models:
A. Testoni
Moreschi

Companies I have no experience of, but which I've heard some good things about:
StefanoBi
Bettanin
Venturi
Bonafe
Barrett

Can I ask where in there you'd rank regular Ferragamo?

 

[jaywhyy]

^Normal Ferragamo has so much variation it's hard to categorize it. I've seen cemented, corrected grain garbage and blake-stitched with supple leathers.

Italian shoes in general have so much variation. Sutor Mantellessi for example has shoes that are cemented, blake-stitched, GYR, blake/rapid, hand-welted and Norvegese.

 

[YRR92]

^Normal Ferragamo has so much variation it's hard to categorize it. I've seen cemented, corrected grain garbage and blake-stitched with supple leathers.

Italian shoes in general have so much variation. Sutor Mantellessi for example has shoes that are cemented, blake-stitched, GYR, blake/rapid, hand-welted and Norvegese.

So it's sort of a catch-as-catch-can kind of thing. That fits with what I've seen, though they still seem to bat a slightly higher average than Gucci -- though I like the classic Gucci bit more than Salvatore's offering.

The idea of cemented Sutor blows my mind, but they're a brand I only know from SF -- though if I were only going by SF, I'd think they made nothing but Norvegese wholecuts.

 

[JubeiSpiegel]



^Normal Ferragamo has so much variation it's hard to categorize it. I've seen cemented, corrected grain garbage and blake-stitched with supple leathers. 

Italian shoes in general have so much variation. Sutor Mantellessi for example has shoes that are cemented, blake-stitched, GYR, blake/rapid, hand-welted and Norvegese. 

I agree, just in the Originale line (not even Studio) you can have a sturdy looking GYW, with some polished binder leather. Other times, good supple leather, with usually GWY or Blake, but a horrible looking last.

Even the Tramezza line has it's share of ugly models and questionable leather, with sole channeling no longer covered. Hit and miss indeed...

 

[Quadcammer]



Jesus, son, if you don't like the C&J you bought then sell them, but quit carrying on about it. If you like those awful Farragamo's you posted, I can't imagine what possessed you to think that you would like Connaughts just by looking at photos on the Internet. Why you didn't go look at them in person (on 56th between 5th and 6th - take the E or M to 53rd and 5th) before buying is beyond me Absent that you could have returned the shoes before wearing them. It should be plainly obvious to someone ho digs Guccis that the 236 last won't suit. I'm not particularly fashion-forward and the 236 is too conservative for me in an Oxford.

Bottom line is that you made a rash Internet purchase and fucked up, and rather than shoulder the responsibility you're attempting to make your failure an aesthetic indictment of an entire brand (and by removal the people who wear it).

precisely

 

[othertravel]

Gucci has a GYW line as well, but Carmiha would be a better value.