Cleverley RTW

[pledge]

I know that most of the talk on this Forum concerning Cleverley is about the bespoke operation, but I'm much more interested at the moment in his RTW collection. Are there now two Cleverley RTW collections, with the addition of the Anthony Cleverley line? If so, what are the differences?

I understand that original RTW line is still made by C&J. Does anyone know to what standard? How about lasts, are they made predominantly on the 337 (my favorite last)?

Finally, a store called Duncan Quinn here in the United States carries the RTW shoes for $875+. I am interested in the wholecut for a little more. Would I be better off trying to purchase with GJ Cleverley shop over the telephone.

Thanks in advance, gents.

 

[whnay.]

Most of the shoes I tried on were either in the 337 or 348.

 

[pledge]

Originally Posted by whnay.

Most of the shoes I tried on were either in the 337 or 348.

Thank you. And quality? Just one range?

 

[speedster.8]

Originally Posted by pledge

I understand that original RTW line is still made by C&J. Does anyone know to what standard? How about lasts, are they made predominantly on the 337 (my favorite last)? Finally, a store called Duncan Quinn here in the United States carries the RTW shoes for $875+. I am interested in the wholecut for a little more. Would I be better off trying to purchase with GJ Cleverley shop over the telephone. Thanks in advance, gents.
I was under the impression the wholecut was 337lasted Weymouth with a slightly higher finnish and a trimmer waist ...

 

[pledge]

Originally Posted by speedster.8

I was under the impression the wholecut was 337lasted Weymouth with a slightly higher finnish and a trimmer waist ...

Exactly my thought...plus, no medallion. Did you notice any other models of note? Thx.

 

[whnay.]

The 348 that I own is slimmer than the C&J, somewhat noticebly so. I would say the quality is on par with C&J's mid-range. They also have a semi-bespoke range that is as good as EG in my cursory view.

 

[Cary Grant]

Based on visiting Cleverley's shop last week, I'd agree with whnay that the GC's are noticeably slimmer/sleaker than the C&J counterparts but this was just my one-time impression.

They do have the new Anthony line coming this summer.

FOr the price- their "semi-bespoke" is a pretty good deal. I'm wearing mine today as it happens.

 

[Michael Ay329]

Cleverley's line of shoes is confusing
Their catalog alludes to RTW, then semi-bespoke and now some newer semi-bespokestyles (which includes some Anthony Cleverley) designs

Back in late Feb. 2009, I visited their shop and spoke with Mr. George Glasgow personally. He admitted that the terminology is just marketing and their was no difference between the RTW and semi-bespoke line. However he did note he was now introducing a newer semi-bespoke line which he claimed would be primarily done in house and would allow some variation in the type of sole, color of leather and some minor design changes.

Even on bespoke, Cleverley (in my opinion only) is not about new inovative designs...instead they work off of classic designs which George Cleverley refined/pioneered.

Otherwise their "older" RTW and semi-bespoke meant you bought their current stock (as to RTW) or as to semi-bespoke, you could order the shoe as displayed but in your size.

Now with the newer semi-bespoke range, he's allowing some adjustments and he's included some designs which Anthony Cleverley (the estranged nephew of George Cleverley) made when he was a bespoke shoe maker.

I ordered a new semi-bespoke Anthony Cleverley design. I was never measured, instead Mr. Glasgow took out a RTW full brogued wing tip in my size, it felt good and he said he will make my shoe in the same size.

I found this design to be a breath of fresh air and allowed me to detour from my current shoe maker...G&G

 

[Cary Grant]

Pledge- your PM inbox is full so I will reply here:

------------------

I've only had my hands directly on both shoes just last week so I am afraid I have little experience to go on.

My impression, if I remember correctly, is that the Cleverley's looked & felt sleeker but it is hardly a scientific comparison.

Might I suggest you email George Glasgow at Cleverley and ask? I think he'll be very helpful for you. The gang their take the quality of their shoes very seriously. My guess is they'd be as good as handgrade if not better but I'm only guessing.

Somebody here likely has better experience.

 

[pledge]

Originally Posted by Cary Grant

Pledge- your PM inbox is full so I will reply here:

------------------

I've only had my hands directly on both shoes just last week so I am afraid I have little experience to go on.

My impression, if I remember correctly, is that the Cleverley's looked & felt sleeker but it is hardly a scientific comparison.

Might I suggest you email George Glasgow at Cleverley and ask? I think he'll be very helpful for you. The gang their take the quality of their shoes very seriously. My guess is they'd be as good as handgrade if not better but I'm only guessing.

Somebody here likely has better experience.

Thank you both for taking the time to reply. Some very interesting observations, especially concerning the semi-bespoke line. I will be sure to follow-up.

 

[jon5986]

I have a lot of experience with Cleverley, across all of their shoes. The bespoke for me are just wonderful and are my best fitting shoes (which you would expect, as they are bespoke). I also have a few semi-bespoke and RTW styles (as one can't just wear bespoke everyday

The RTW line is all based on their bespoke lasts and in my opinion are better than the CJ handgrades (I have both). The quality of leather is better and fit. The semi-bespoke styles (which are great value) do involve handwork and have a more beveled waist (as you can see on the sole). These shoes also seem to highlight the Cleverley toe more so than the standard RTW line. Their Anthony Cleverley range, while being semi-bespoke, is much closer to their bespoke shoes and involve a great deal of handwork. Mr. Carnera & Mr. Glasgow based the new semi-bespoke Anthony Cleverley range on the most popular styles Anthony made for his customers (obviously bespoke). The leather and stitching is beautiful. All of these shoes are hand-lasted and hand-welted. The styles are very unique and unlike nothing I have seen by any of the other shoemakers. I also just ordered an Anthony Cleverley style (which should be coming around July/Aug), so will upload pics. I think Ay329 might be the first to get his....(I'm jealous) photos please ... In America, duncan quinn carries several Cleverley styles. Two of which are in the Cleverley semi-bespoke range in a tan burnished color (which looks great with jeans or a blue/grey suit). I tried buying the Cleverley tan burnished semi-bespoke shoe from duncan quinn in Los Angeles but they had sold out of most sizes already (so they are going to send one from the Dallas store). Once I get them, I will upload a picture.

 

[jon5986]

Also, unlike most shoemakers, every Cleverley shoe (including RTW) comes complete with shoe trees in the price (C&J charge over $100 for shoe tress, as does G&G).