Classic Menswear as muscular guy

[TheIronDandy]

Well first of all thank you for all these splendid replies.



This is a good idea in general, but I do not know if it is suitable for me. Traveling back and forth costs quite a lot in terms of opportunity costs. I am not a big fan of driving to and waiting at an airport so even a quick one day trip to London/Stockholm will cost me at least an entire day of free time with wife and family. On top I will not earn any money on this day and since I have the opportunity to work on weekends if I want to, this will drive up opportunity costs even more. I am not saying that I dismiss the idea right away, but off the top of my head I do not think it is likely that I will actually do this.

Right now I am leaning towards ordering from collaro. They commissioned a couple of shirts and trousers for me and the latest items were very nice and the communication is very good. They offer full canvas sport coats including a bastet jacket for about 800 Euros (+import charges).
The major advantage would be the opportunity to order online. If they get the fit right (which I sort of think they eill) I would have a tailor whom I can order from easily again. I do like their trousers and shirts already, trying a jacket seems like a natural next step.

Still, I would prefer to go vintage because I think this is a good and cheap way for many people to buy clothes, but possibly not suitable for me.

All good points; I definitely wouldn't argue with wanting to spend less time in airports!

 

[BB_Adept]

So in case anyone is interested, I just placed an order at Spier and Mackay. Ever since I first logged onto this forum I liked their sport coats so I thought I just gave them a try and see if the fit works for me. I do not need perfect bespoke fit yet, just want the clothes to fit nicely. Perfect fut would be great, but this would just break the bank I guess. Also my body still changes due to muscle gain (albeit only in small proportions) and I will lose muscle in the future as I get older.

It's worth trying I thought. I bought two sport coats on sale, one in 44r contemporary fit and one in 46r contemporary fit. I like the way they look, but my main goal is to find out if u can order the sport coats j really want in the future.This cost me around 600 euros.

I would have liked to purchase neo cut, but I'm gonna do that some other time (No neo cut on sale).

Sadly I might have to send one of those sport coats back but if either one fits well enough to be kept I am satisfied And will use s&m again right away. On top, both sport coats look nice and are really cheap (250/300$).

I also purchased a pair of high rise chinos for the same reason. Sadly they did not have a single shirt in my size, but maybe some other time.

Even if I end up losing money on this, I think it is worth the risk. Tax and import charges should be eligible for refund in case I have to send everything back to Canada.

 

[denverbizman42]

All good points; I definitely wouldn't argue with wanting to spend less time in airports!

Time at an airport CAN be useful if you have to be there, and if you can find a shoe shine stand there. To sit in the shoe shine chair is a good way to spend the time.

Does anyone here use the shoe shine at the airport? Maybe I’m just lucky and where I travel to and from, they seem to still have them.

 

[BB_Adept]

For those who might still be interested in my journey, here is a cross post from the tailors thread.

Hey forum.

The blue sport coat is a 46R in merino wool from s&m. I think I will return it because it is too big.
Does anyone think it could be fixed by altering or is it just too big? The shoulders feel comfy though.

As for the brown checked sport coat, a 44R in a linen/wool mix, I already decided I will keep it (even though it is not perfect of course). The sleeves need to be shortened (which I expected). Does it need any more alterations? From the side it looks weird around my belly but when I wear it it's OK to me.

Looking for feedback regarding both sport coats and general sizing in S&M sport coats for future orders.

The quality of pictures could be better, do excuse my wife's poor photography skills. View attachment 1726353 View attachment 1726345 View attachment 1726346 View attachment 1726347 View attachment 1726348 View attachment 1726349 View attachment 1726350 View attachment 1726351 View attachment 1726352 View attachment 1726353

 

[BB_Adept]

I edited the photos to improve the lighting. I am at work so i cannot take new ones right now.

 

[dieworkwear]

The fit is not bad for the price. If that is your natural posture however, then the coat is slightly scissoring inwards.

 

[BB_Adept]

Thanks!.
I took it to the tailor and am currently waiting for it to be finished. The sleeves will be shortened and the waist taken in.

Yes s&m is quite cheap. However, I did not mention the import charges.
If this is my natural posture I do not know. Also my belly was filled with lasagna thar night.

The blue one is going back to Canada.

My next project will be a sport coat from Lopez Aragon. They are all made to order but without import charges due to them being in the EU.

 

[refinery]

I have the same issue as you @BB_Adept. Lifting for the last +5 years has seriously put on significant muscle from a 36S to something close to a 43-44S, but honestly even stuff I seem to find used OTR (Spier & Mackay, Kent Wang, etc.) still have issues especially the arms (18 inch biceps flexed).

Not too many issues with shirts (have to go "classic" fit 17/34-35, arms still kind of tight) or trousers (pleated, "classic" fit), but jackets are a pain.

I would try S&M MTM, but it seems like they have no option for sleeve size. Might have to try Kent Wang MTM instead, but also interested in hearing about other MTM options for sportcoats/suits. I haven't done too much digging since I am also in a similar predicament as you (early 30s, saving for home with wife, etc.) and my wife couldn't care less that my new MTM sportcoat has a barchetta pocket. I'm extremely hesitant to do any local bespoke here in Houston as none of their gallery photos inspire confidence in me, and any traveling tailors that do make stops in Houston charge a bit too much for my budget.

Interested in seeing photos of that S&M jacket after it's back from your tailor.

 

[dieworkwear]

A member here is a skilled pattern maker who makes patterns for some of the top suit manufacturers in North America. He's working on a made-to-measure system where, instead of drafting a customer's pattern from a block, it's made from scratch using an if/then algorithm. Theoretically, this should allow for a better fit if you're not within a certain distance from a block.

Before the pandemic, he was planning to travel across the US to do trunk shows. Some of the items he showed me (suits made for customers as tests) looked really good (I saw the items online, not in person). For people who have an athletic build, this may be an option in the near future.

 

[BB_Adept]

Hey I will try to upload some photos today. The sport coat is back from the tailor and looking nicely.

As for that member (who is it btw?): I cannot travel to the US. I am based in Europe so Savil Row and Naples are much closer. Actually a trip to Naples would only take 5-6 hours door to door.

 

[dieworkwear]

As for that member (who is it btw?): I cannot travel to the US. I am based in Europe so Savil Row and Naples are much closer. Actually a trip to Naples would only take 5-6 hours door to door.

JefferyD

If you can make it to Naples, check Ciro Zizolfi. I think he does good work and his prices are reasonable. I also use Sartoria Solito and think they do good work. Ask if Gennaro can draft your pattern. He cuts things a little less slim than his son, Luigi.

 

[BB_Adept]

Bad photography (pics taken from down below, horrible lighting etc) but just to give you an idea.
I am quite satisfied, especially considering this was otr with slight alterations. I know there are some wrinkles, but considering it's 60%linen I expected nothing else.

Additionally I ordered a sport coat from lopez aragon. It's made to order but they offer a return service. They are based in Spain so no import charges apply and the ecological footprint might be a nuance smaller. I am excited to see if LA turns out to be even better (I ordered a full canvas sport coat in camel herringbone tweed). If not, I know that I can come back to S&M, but I would prefer not having to order from Canada.

 

[Daniel Hakimi]

I don't fit well into good off-the-rack stuff either, and... yeah, it's a struggle to accept that I just need to spend on MTM+.

But look at the bright side. MTM is an opportunity to focus on the details you really want. It's an opportunity to say, "no, I don't like narrow lapels, J. Crew, I don't care if they're on sale for $100." Know what you want, pick it exactly.

Go piece by piece. Both because it's expensive, and beceause your tastes will change over time. You'll do well.

 

[BB_Adept]

One of the issues is living in Germany. There are only few good tailors and all those are horribly expensive. I cannot buy a bespoke sport coat for less than 3.5k Euro in my area.

 

[rosomax]

Wow, I finally found a thread where people feel my pain when it comes to finding something that fits.
I'm probably the same size as the topicstarter:
Height: 5'11"
Weight: 210 lbs (95 kg)
Chest: 48.2"
Waist: 37.8"
Arms: 18.5".
Typically buy shirts 17 34/35, but jackets are next to impossible to buy unaltered. And the tailors have a real hard time taking them in and keeping the shape. The pants are always huge and billowy with the 46R suits, especially since my thighs are not very big. Is a better route to go to Suit Supply and have it made to measure, or do full bespoke? The latter would probably be very expensive, but the options are limited. Can't even imagine what more muscular guys do...